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Old 05-01-2006, 07:35 PM   #1
johngzwart
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Question Tire pressure need help

Subject: Correct tire pressure
I have read every thread on the tire forum and I am completely confused !

I have a 2002 TM 3023 with 15" Goodyear tires.
TM instruction manual stating tire pressure should be 65lbs/sq inch

In two weeks I am heading out from League City, TX to Denver (1100miles)
Simple question what should my tire pressure be when I pull out of my
driveway @ 05:00 May15th 2006 heading out to Denver.
How often during the trip should I check the tires? What should I look for?

Your help/guidance needed.

Thanks
John Zwart
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Old 05-01-2006, 08:43 PM   #2
johngzwart
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Thanks for the info. What is the easy method for greasing the bearings?

Brgds
John
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Old 05-02-2006, 09:31 AM   #3
Bill
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Leon's schematic is for the Sure Lube system on the Reliable, Inc axle. The old grease comes out the back side of the hub.

An equivalent picture for Dexter's EZ-lube (most TM's have EZ-Lube, I think) is at
http://dexteraxle.com/e_z_lube_system
The old grease comes out the front, right next to the Zerk where you are pumping in the new grease. Click "Product Flyer" for a bigger picture.

Both are pretty good, and easy to use, though a couple members have reported grease getting to the brakes. Don't know how or why.

Bill
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Old 05-02-2006, 05:55 PM   #4
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Good evening Bill and Leon.
Ok excellent info. All i need to do is get a grease gun and a tube of grease. Pull off the rubber cap. Stick my gun on the nipple and pump away. Am I missing anything? Do I need a special fitting for the zerk...does it accept the standard fitting that comes with the grease gun. I think I can handle this!

Thanks for your help

Brgds
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Old 05-02-2006, 07:28 PM   #5
rickst29
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Wink TM "65 PSI" is only correct if FULLY LOADED,

or driving at over 65MPH.

First issue: REDUCE the pressure if the TM isn't loaded to the max. Goodyear provides a table saying how much to reduce your cold PSI when the load per tire is below the maximum. If you always put the tires at the cold maximum (as most TM owners probably do) the tire doesn't contact the ground very well, and it doesn't have the suspension "give" characteristics which it was designed for... your trailer is getting shaken a lot harder than it needs to be.

Here's the "drop the cold PSI according to tire load" table for your 15" tire (Marathon ST225/R15), from the first PDF:

max load <> recommended
per tire: <> cold PSI:

1060 lbs <> 15 PSI
1260 lbs <> 20 PSI
1430 lbs <> 25 PSI
1600 lbs <> 30 PSI
1760 lbs <> 35 PSI
1880 lbs <> 40 PSI
2020 lbs <> 45 PSI
2150 lbs <> 50 PSI (max load and PSI for class 'C' load rated)
2270 lbs <> 55 PSI
2380 lbs <> 60 PSI
2540 lbs <> 65 PSI (max load and PSI for class 'D' load rated)

See the full discussion in this thread: showthread=3357 Lucky for you, I used the 3023 as my example.

Second issue: If you'll be driving fast, you can then ADD some pressure to the result from the table above. This is brand new advice (03/2006) from Goodyear, see showthread=4096

More pressure reduces tire squirm at high speeds. The tread, as it rotates from unloaded to loaded at the front of the contact with the ground, actually bends a lot... too much if you travel at high speed without putting those "extra" PSI back in.

- - - -
WDHSo first, estimate or measure your load per tire (TM dry weight plus weight of heavy options A/C and awning), minus tongue weight, plus load (don't forget the water tanks). Your 3023 has more load capacity than any other TM (special builds like mine excluded), and will often be loaded less than it's tire/axle capacity. If you want to be REALLY finicky, also remember that the WDH puts some weight back on the trailer axle. Then use the Goodyear table (above), add 5 PSI or so as a safety factor in your load estimate (you NEVER, EVER want to be running under-inflated!!!) And then, if you'll drive really fast, add up to 10 PSI more... but don't go past 65 PSI cold, because I don't know if the wheel is designed to handle any more than that.

And remember, "cold PSI" needs to be measured COLD. Don't let air out after you've been going for a while.
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Old 05-08-2006, 06:39 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill
Leon's schematic is for the Sure Lube system on the Reliable, Inc axle. The old grease comes out the back side of the hub.

An equivalent picture for Dexter's EZ-lube (most TM's have EZ-Lube, I think) is at
http://dexteraxle.com/e_z_lube_system
The old grease comes out the front, right next to the Zerk where you are pumping in the new grease. Click "Product Flyer" for a bigger picture.

Both are pretty good, and easy to use, though a couple members have reported grease getting to the brakes. Don't know how or why.

Bill
I have had a problem with the SureLube system. The reason why, I believe, is that the old grease is forced out through a channel whose entrance is a 1/8" diameter hole located on the spindle just before the seal. The channel is perpindicular to the spindle, then turns and runs through the center of the spindle, exiting at the back of the spindle. If the channel is clogged, the grease is pushed past the seal. I am packing by hand from now on.
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Old 05-08-2006, 06:59 PM   #7
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I'll second that! I have to put new brake shoes on my TM as soon as it comes out of hibernation because of the grease going past the seals and getting on the shoes. I'll never do that again! The brakes work really well now with the cooked grease on them - they lock up even when you don't want them to! I think it's a plot by Dexter to sell more brake shoes!
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Old 05-19-2006, 05:41 AM   #8
MidwestDave
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Default Lug wrench question

I had picked up a non-folding lug wrench not realizing that it was METRIC!
I am guessing that this is the wrong type? Help!

Midwest Dave
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