tow package question?

[rvcycleguy]

for the member engineers or those that like to understand weights and carry loads. I am weighing out the loads and limits on my tow package with CL III hitch and towing a TM and carrying a motorcycle.

2003 Tundra SRS extra cab, 2wd, 4.7 l v8 with optional tow package and Firestone Ride Rite air bags.

stock spec's indicate, wthout the helper springs, the tow weight limit is 7200lbs Toungue weight-500lbs, w/o WDH

2002 3124KB, estimated weight- 3200lbs. unloaded.

2006 C50c (800cc) Suzuki Boulevard, full bagged, accessories, est weight- 650lbs.

My questions are.... has the tongue weight limit changed with the weight of the motorcycle in the truck bed?

I loaded it yesterday and hitched up the truck and leveled it with the air springs and it all looks solid. Drove it around for a couple of hours and felt safe.

Do I need a WDH? in your opinion?

Does my total tow weight include carrying weight?



thanks,

rv

You don't specify the Tundra's payload capacity. Typically Trailmanors have a high tongue weight. If you add that tongue weight to your 650# motorcycle + people and gear in the truck, you may exceed the Tundra's payload capacity and GVWR. I know I did that with my Tacoma (without a motorcycle).

The payload and motorcycle will not affect what your hitch can carry, but I wouldn't be surprised if your trailer's hitch weight exceeded the 500# limit. For that reason alone, you may want a Weight Distributing Hitch.

[ShrimpBurrito]

First, a very important thing to understand is that your air springs do NOTHING to help balance your load. The basic concept one needs to be concerned with is weight distribution, i.e.:

• how much weight is on the axles
• how much weight does my TM and TV weigh individually, and my TM and TV weigh combined

You cannot exceed the weight ratings of any of the axles, the individual weight ratings of both your TM and TV, the gross combined vehicle weight (GCVW?) rating, or the tongue weight rating of your TV. Furthermore, if your rear axle is weighted too much relative to the front axle, even if it's within its rated limit, the front of the vehicle points upward. That makes your headlights point upwards, which air shocks can fix, but most importantly, it also reduces your steering control, which air shocks do nothing to fix.

So while your TV may look great with your air shocks inflated, you still could be significantly overweight or your setup may not be easily controlled while on the road.

Our esteemed moderator, Bill, wrote an excellent write-up explaining what you need to know here:

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ead.php?t=2616

Check it out, and then ask more questions.

Dave

EDIT: You almost certainly will need a WDH, even without the motorcycle. I tow with a Sequoia, which is the same platform as the Tundra, don't take a bike, and I use one. Also, your TM is going to weigh more like 4,000 pounds when loaded for camping.

[rvcycleguy]

thanks for the response ShrimpBurrito,

2003 Tundra access cab, SR5, V8

Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) 11,800lbs

PayLoad- 1800lbs

GVWR- 6200lbs

Curb Weight- 4400lbs

Tow Weight- 7100lbs

Tongue Weight-710lbs

Suzuki 805cc, Dry Weight 542lbs


rv

1800# payload is good.

If your trailer has 600-700 tongue weight and your cycle is ~600, that leaves 300-400# for you and passengers and other gear. Close but probably good enough. You could go to a scale to make sure.

If the Tundra's hitch can support 710# you should be good there too.

But like ShrimpB says, you'll lifting weight off the front axle without a WDH. If you drive it and it feels ok, maybe that's not a problem.

And you could also exceed the rear axle GAWR. Take it to a scale and find out. If so, a WDH would help move some of the tongue weight onto the front axle and back to the trailer axle.

[rvcycleguy]

thanks Brulaz.

GAWR-

Front Axle is FF- 3160lbs and the RR is 3760lbs

I was hoping to not use a WDH, but might have to. I am a new trial member and paid member soon, that was asking questions about two weeks ago regarding a hitch extension.

The tailgate of the truck has to be in the down postion to carry the motorcycle. It does not impact the trailer jack but too close to pull safely and turn. At this point for temporary, I am removing the jack with the 3 bolts on the mounting flange. The trailer is threaded for the bolts. Easy off and on with a cordless drill and socket head adapter. I'm also removing the twin propane tanks as the tray and bottles slightly overhang the A-Frame. I have the accessory bed-extender rack for the tailgate and I bungee them both in securely.

My plan for the future is to mount a swingaway jack to the outside of the A-frame rail. I thought about mounting it on the drivers side of the trailer frame, but the trailer plug cable, breakaway switch cable and wire are located there and is a potential conflict. May have to place it on the curb side.

[rvcycleguy]

Thanks for the links ShrimpBurrito. For many years, I have used a method that is slightly different when hitching to the WDH.

I hitch up the ball and coupler and crank down the jack post to squat the TV. Then inspect the wheel wells front to back. Lock the coupler and then crank the jack post up, to level the TV wheel wells and then set the chain loops on the lifting rods. Crank the post down and the TV should not change, no squat and no lifting of the front end. Continue to lift the jack post to a safe measurement above the ground.

Sounds complicated! Would love to see some pictures of how it works out.
Oh yes, if you google CAT scales you should find one reasonably close. A good investment of time and a few dollars, Ive found.

[scrubjaysnest]

We towed our TM home from TX a year ago October without the WDH. The TV settled about 2 inches in the back. Although the 1100 mile trip went fine I didn't like the TV front end up in the air so went through a lot of trouble to get the WDH to work with the swing tongue. After over 6 months on the road this year, about 12000 miles I say go with the WDH. As for setting up the WDH my procedure is similar the first time, after that I just count links and hook up with no load on the ball. After the bars are hooked up then I run the jack up no back breaking labor involved.

[rvcycleguy]

thanks Scrub,

The problem I am having is the WDH lifting bars are in conflict with adding a swingaway jack.