Better Gas Mileage Tips

I must agree about the gas, it all comes into our cities via the same underground petro line and is distributed from there. The distribution facility calls for an order and that is sent in the same pipeline whether it be low octane, high octane, and yes diesel. There is a buffer sent through between the diesel shipments though that is digarded. With that being said yes most gas is the same but there may be some cheapo places out there that do something different.

The advertised "additives" in premium gas are put in locally and only amount to a couple quarts per tanker truck. I would like to see real proof they actually do anything.

Josh

[Bill]

Originally Posted by Pitbull

Note; if you are having problems with varying pressure and/or tire failures caused by temp, nitrogen is more stable and will be less affected by temp and natural leakage.

Nitrogen is generally regarded as a scam, except by the people who sell nitrogen. First, air is already 80% nitrogen, so you can fill with 80% nitrogen just by filling with air. Second, nitrogen is similar to oxygen (THE VILLAIN!) in all chemical ways - same molecule size (so it doesn't leak any faster or slower), same thermal conductivity (so it doesn't run cooler), same thermal expansion rate (so the pressure is not more stable), same everything.

We had the nitrogen discussion a couple years ago - you can Search for it. I'm sorry to sound disbelieving, but ... anyone got a 300 MPG carburetor for sale? They're all over the Internet, and they promise great things.

Bill

We all have our own ideas about which oils and gas are best, assuming good maintenance of filters, oil changes, air pressures etc the best way I have found to improve gas mileage with my TV (with or with out the TM) is to slow down.
But I rarely do it.

I've never seen an owners manual that said "Do not use Synthetic oil" is there actually a manufacture that does that? I'm just asking. Considering makers of some of the most expensive and exotic autos out there send their cars from the factory with all synthetic fluids.....I would doubt it????

Interesting you mention Amsoil, here was an interesting test comparing it to Mobile 1. The Amsoil changed from 5W-30 to 15W-40 over the length of the test. Not good.
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html

[scrubjaysnest]

Originally Posted by Pitbull

Again, if a synthetic meets the API spec for that engine or diff and they can not PROVE the product caused the failure, it is against the law to void the warranty, no matter what is in the owner's manual.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuso...s_Warranty_Act

Koz

This is more a case of who has the better do we cheatum and how other wise known as a lawyer. That being said, the DW's cherokee requires synthetic gear lube in both diffs. API specs indicate an after market, non Chrysler, gear lube should be ok but AAMCO isn't 100% sure so they recommended using the Chrysler gear lube. Based on my own experience with a GM product We go the more expensive route and will let the AAMCO and Chrysler lawyers fight it out if needed

We do a lot of saltwater fishing and from personal experience know that bearing greases with the same API are not created equal. Most get hard after about six months exposure to salt water where as some do not.

Originally Posted by Beach Boy

I have spoke to several gas hauler drivers. They all tell me that there is no difference between major brand gas and discount gas.

They say that there will be an EXXON truck in line for the 87 octane tank at the tank farm followed by a discount truck followed by a Chevron truck. Unless they go to a secret location to add chemicals (yeah right), the majors and the discounters are using the same gasoline.

In addition, it is an industry standard that major brand haulers have contracts with discounters to sell to them the last gasoline in their tanks at the end of their routes.

Gas is gas.

"Top Tier" (TT) fuel does have a different additive package, just like there are different octane’s. In the past couple years several new (big) companies had been added to the TT list (Exxon being one of them). It used to be pretty much just Chevron and Shell. So now the chances of getting TT fuel at a discount are much better, but they don't always get it from the same place, so there is no guarantee you will get "Top Tier" all the time. The discount companies get their fuel from whoever gives them the best price.

Koz

Originally Posted by Bill

Nitrogen is generally regarded as a scam, except by the people who sell nitrogen. First, air is already 80% nitrogen, so you can fill with 80% nitrogen just by filling with air. Second, nitrogen is similar to oxygen (THE VILLAIN!) in all chemical ways - same molecule size (so it doesn't leak any faster or slower), same thermal conductivity (so it doesn't run cooler), same thermal expansion rate (so the pressure is not more stable), same everything.

We had the nitrogen discussion a couple years ago - you can Search for it. I'm sorry to sound disbelieving, but ... anyone got a 300 MPG carburetor for sale? They're all over the Internet, and they promise great things.

Bill

Nitrogen is not a scam (been around a long time), it's just not practical for passenger cars. There are two main advantages to nitrogen; optimal pressure will be maintained four times longer and there will be less pressure fluctuation when there is a temp change. Remember with air you will lose 1lb a month no matter what and 1lb for every 10 degrees. Nitrogen can be effective for commercial vehicles, aircraft, motorcycles, some racing applications and in some special applications like trailers.

My personal feelings are; if you can get it for free, use it. If you have to pay for it, I would pass.
Koz

Originally Posted by Redhawk

We all have our own ideas about which oils and gas are best, assuming good maintenance of filters, oil changes, air pressures etc the best way I have found to improve gas mileage with my TV (with or with out the TM) is to slow down.
But I rarely do it.

I've never seen an owners manual that said "Do not use Synthetic oil" is there actually a manufacture that does that? I'm just asking. Considering makers of some of the most expensive and exotic autos out there send their cars from the factory with all synthetic fluids.....I would doubt it????

Interesting you mention Amsoil, here was an interesting test comparing it to Mobile 1. The Amsoil changed from 5W-30 to 15W-40 over the length of the test. Not good.
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html

This test was done several years ago and both Mobile 1 and Amsoil have been reformulated several times, since. Also the Amsoil that was used in their test is not their best oil. Their 0w-30 is their premium oil. For the record Mobile 1 is very good oil and up a certain amount of miles it is as good as any boutique oil like Amsoil. UOAs have proved that Amsoil is the best oil for extended oil change intervals (OCI). As a matter of fact, I used Amsoil (0w-30) in my previous TV with an oil bypass system and I didn’t change the oil for over 40,000 miles (changed a filter once a year) and it was still providing safe protection and stayed in the original viscosity range (UOAs once a year).

Koz

Originally Posted by Beach Boy

I have spoke to several gas hauler drivers. They all tell me that there is no difference between major brand gas and discount gas.

They say that there will be an EXXON truck in line for the 87 octane tank at the tank farm followed by a discount truck followed by a Chevron truck. Unless they go to a secret location to add chemicals (yeah right), the majors and the discounters are using the same gasoline.

In addition, it is an industry standard that major brand haulers have contracts with discounters to sell to them the last gasoline in their tanks at the end of their routes.

Gas is gas.

In San Jose there is a gas terminal. There are two pipelines from the refinery down to San Jose.

One is owned and operated exclusively for Chevron. Everyone else shares the other pipeline.

Additives are added at the gas terminal. Each brand adds their own additives and then the gas that is used to fill it is all the same, except for Chevron.

Some stations are better than others at making sure that their in ground tanks are free (almost) of sediment and water. When it exceeds normal the truck is called in to pump to pump out the sediment from the bottom and the water from the top. It is taken back to the refinery to be reprocessed.

A few years ago the fuel pump in my Chevy 1500 failed. One possible cause was 2 gallons of water in a 30 gallon fuel tank.

I had been using one particular ARCO station, except when traveling. I can not say that they were the cause, but I have not had a problem since I stopped going there several years ago.

If this was the source of the water it is not ARCO's fault. It is the fault of that particular station. Some stations are better than others at keeping their fuel clean.

Originally Posted by PopBeavers

When it exceeds normal the truck is called in to pump to pump out the sediment from the bottom and the water from the top. It is taken back to the refinery to be reprocessed.

Minor correction - water settles to the bottom of a gasoline storage tank - it's denser than gasoline. When I worked in a gas station back in the 70's they used to make us "stick the tanks" with 15' long rulers. On the bottom 4" of the stick we would apply a special paste that would change color in the presence of water. Every night we would report the gas level and the water level. They used the former to make sure no one was stealing gas and the latter to determine if the tank needed to be emptied / purged.

Originally Posted by Bigbit

Minor correction - water settles to the bottom of a gasoline storage tank - it's denser than gasoline. When I worked in a gas station back in the 70's they used to make us "stick the tanks" with 15' long rulers. On the bottom 4" of the stick we would apply a special paste that would change color in the presence of water. Every night we would report the gas level and the water level. They used the former to make sure no one was stealing gas and the latter to determine if the tank needed to be emptied / purged.

I stand corrected.

I just assumed water was lighter than gas. oops.

So this explains why it is helpful to never allow you fuel tank to run too low. I believe that gasoline is removed from your vehicles fuel tank from near the top. Once he level gets too low then you will suck up water and debris.

Of course, there should not be any water or debris in your fuel tank.

If you were to suspect that there was more than a trivial amount of water and/or debris in the bottom of your vehicles fuel tank, what is the easiest/best way to remove it as a preventative measure? What is the best way to determine if there is any.