Battery upgrade for 2619?

[nmaiers]

I've been reading through the threads regarding batteries, but haven't come up with definitive answers to a couple of questions. This potential upgrade is definitely pushing the boundaries of my skillset and comfort level, but I just maybe crazy enough to try...

I bought my used '05 2619 from a dealer earlier this year and they provided a new 12v "Deep Cycle" Marine battery. I'd like to beef up my battery situation.

-It seems like people prefer to use 2 x 6V batteries wired in series (rather than 2 x 12 v in parallel). Does my rig have room for the taller 6v batteries in the tongue storage box?

-If I upgrade to two batteries, will the existing converter in my trailer be able to handle that adjustment or will I need to upgrade that as well?

At some point, I like the idea of getting some solar panels to charge said batteries, but one step at a time...

Any answers or advice would be much appreciated!

[rickst29]

Your 2619 (2005) probably doesn't allow enough height and width (front-to-back distance when mounted sideways) for 6V Golf Cart batteries which match the design of Trojan T105's (BCI Group Size "GC2"). My 2006 model can't take them.

Length 10.30" is not a problem, the crossbar can easily handle two batteries along that direction. But extreme height (11.07"), combined with Width (7.11") which is slightly greater than traditional "Group 24" batteries will cause the top-rear edge to block the front shell, when attempting to lift the shell.

You should definitely be able to handle dual batteries of size "Group 24". But order them carefully, because most "Marine" batteries are built for combined engine start and deep cycle. You don't want that, you want a pure "deep cycle".

[rickst29]

The "World Friendship Company" Converter (AKA "WFCO"), is widely recognized as cheap, unreliable, and poor-performing device. But it's possible that the Converter in your used 2005 has already failed and been replaced by something better.

Right around that time, however, TM "upgraded" into the WFCO from an even worse Converter, the Parallax (AKA Magnatek). So, I'm not sure what you've got, you need to look.

What we're talking about is the [UConverter ]Section[/U], the big board with large capacitors, a big inductor, a big heatsink, and at least one fan on the bottom compartment. You would need to replace only the Converter Section - you can keep the big case, the upper-left 120-VAC section, the "bus" bars, all the "downstream wiring", and the 12V power distribution circuit board (with fuses on it) unchanged.
- - - -
The Best Brand is "Progressive Dynamics", a USA company which biulds their products here (in the USA). Everything else comes from China, and IMO should be avoided.

Progressive Dynamics has just two authorized USA Dealers. Don't buy on Amazon! A reliable authorized dealer is "Randy" at http://www.bestconverter.com. But he usually wants to hype his Chinese "Boondocker" products, which aren't very good. Buy only PD products. I bought a Boodocker and threw it away, I now own this one: http://www.bestconverter.com/PD-4655...te-_p_677.html It is fantastic, and actually puts out 65A (not 55A).

Do not buy a model which isn't Lithium capable, and always pay extra for the remote (if it wasn't included automatically).

[clan_salmons]

Originally Posted by rickst29

My 2006 model can't take them.

Length 10.30" is not a problem, the crossbar can easily handle two batteries along that direction. But extreme height (11.07"), combined with Width (7.11") which is slightly greater than traditional "Group 24" batteries will cause the top-rear edge to block the front shell, when attempting to lift the shell.

I find this interesting. I have 2 T105s in a single box on my tongue. The box has enough extra vertical space that I mounted my battery monitor shunt on the inside above the batteries. Yet my front shell clears easily. It seems to me that the lift geometry for the front shell would be the same regardless of the model as only the length of the shell changes, not the lift height.

Am I missing something? Just curious.

[rickst29]

When I had batteries on the tongue, even my dual G-24 boxes were very tight (back edges of the boxes, for clearance on the lift. TM might have changed the shape of the A-frame. But, I had a custom (non-cracking!) swing hitch built by a "welder-friend" of the dealer, and the battery rails might be uniquely RAISED in my 2619.

[clan_salmons]

Raised or moved back to accommodate the swing hitch.

My box rails are welded to the bottom of frame. The battery box itself is 13” high and I still have 4” of gap to the front window cover. There's room for my battery cutoff switch, monitor shunt, fuses, and plugs for my portable solar panel. I have to dismantle it to get the batteries out for winter storage, but that's a minor inconvenience.

Hopefully the picture will come out right side up. iPhone.

[rickst29]

I have dual propane tanks in front of the battery box rails, and that forces the Group-24 battery boxes all the way back (nearly against the TM "base box"). Your battery box has a horizontal space in the rear, allowing the shell to descend into that space without hitting the battery box.

Thanks for the photo!

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Here’s my 2009 2619
It closes but the cover won’t close I might need a different box
Those are 2 6 volt batteries

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[nmaiers]

Originally Posted by rickst29

I have dual propane tanks in front of the battery box rails, and that forces the Group-24 battery boxes all the way back (nearly against the TM "base box")

I too have dual propane tanks. I wonder if the tongue on the 2619 is different than the 3023? Maybe I'll just have to pick up a 105 battery and try it?

Thanks for all the info on the batteries and the converter. This board is such a great resource and time saver!

My trailer is folded in the carport at the moment, but when I pull it out in a month, prior to our next trip, I"ll check to see which bad converter I have!