Latch hook holes worn out?

[nmaiers]

...so I noticed my front shell is not closing all the way on the passenger side (see photo) and it seems to be because the latch hook is not siting correctly - flush with the arm; rather, it's tilted counterclockwise (see photo). I tried loosening the bolts, repositioning, and then tightening, which fixed the problem for the moment. But then after driving home from the Russian River, we're back to where we were, I'm thinking I need to order a new latch hook (and all the accompanying bolt/washer/nut hardware).

Thoughts?

On a maybe related note: I've never adjusted torsion bars, etc. I've seen that there are videos on the boards on doing it, but it feels like it might be a little more than my limited skillset can tackle....

[Bill]

Originally Posted by nmaiers

...so I noticed my front shell is not closing all the way on the passenger side (see photo) and it seems to be because the latch hook is not siting correctly - flush with the arm; rather, it's tilted counterclockwise (see photo). I tried loosening the bolts, repositioning, and then tightening, which fixed the problem for the moment. But then after driving home from the Russian River, we're back to where we were, I'm thinking I need to order a new latch hook (and all the accompanying bolt/washer/nut hardware).

Don't order new parts. You'll just get what you already have. The holes are supposed to be elongated - that's what enables you to adjust the height of the plate, once you have leveled it. You have already done the right thing by leveling and tightening the plate, but the plate rotated again, which means you didn't tighten the bolts enough. You need to loosen the plate again, level it again at the correct height, and then tighten the nuts/bolts very tight. Make sure there is no oil or grease on the mating surfaces, which would encourage movement. Check to see if there is a lock washer under each bolt head, and each nut. Use a wrench to tighten it - pliers won't do.

The "right height" is the height that brings the bag seal firmly into contact with the roof. But there is no need to pull it down so far that you mash the bag seal.

Don't leave the plate in the tilted position. It will cause the latch hook to wear at its point, and then you will have to replace it. You can already see in the picture that the hook is carrying the load right at its point, instead of down inside the throat of the hook.

This should fix the issue.

Bill

[Larryjb]

Originally Posted by nmaiers

....

On a maybe related note: I've never adjusted torsion bars, etc. I've seen that there are videos on the boards on doing it, but it feels like it might be a little more than my limited skillset can tackle....

Do your torsion bars need adjustment? If you can lift the shells reasonably easily with 2 hands, then they are good. My 10 year old daughter couldn't do it, but my 12 year old son could. If you allow it to open slowly, you can pretty much let the torsion bars do the lifting. If you try to lift too fast, it will feel heavy.

[commodor47]

Something doesn't seem quite right with hold down latch in your second photo. The lower bolt appears to be too close to the bottom edge of the white, rectangular lift arm. It's almost as if the hole in the lift arm has elongated allowing the latch to become tilted. Either that or the bottom hole in the lift arm is not in line with the upper hole. Can you confirm the lower hole in the lift arm is not elongated and is in line with the upper lift arm hole?

Dick

[nmaiers]

EDIT :As always, lots of information on this forum. Thank you for your comments. I have not adjusted my torsion bars and I do have to pull a bit to get the shells up. I suspect my 11 year old WOULD NOT be able to lift. So they need adjusting- I've been reluctant because I dont have a level spot to park it here at home; I'd need to do it at a compsite. And frankly I'm nervous about attempting it.

I took off the bracket. See below. Detioriated star washer (at least one of them) behind the bolt head and lock washer behind the nut. Multiple holes drilled into the arm.

[nmaiers]

[rickst29]

That "hook" seems too worn at the end. And, from your first post, it sort of likes like your upper shell shell "clamp" has been torqued outwards from the shell. For me, that would imply too much "lift" on the front shell's rear arm along this side - requiring adjustment for less lifting power at the adjustment bolt for BIGGER BAR (the front shell), just in front of the axle an the curb side (behind the door).

Before you even try to push the shell down into the hook: How high is the rear end of the front shell resting, above the rear shell, when "lowered" but not yet clamped? It should be only 5-6" and even on both sides.

[rickst29]

Originally Posted by nmaiers

As always, lots of information on this forum. I have not adjusted my torsion bars and I do have to pull a bit to get the shells up. I suspect my 11 year old WOULD NOT be able to lift. So they need adjusting- I've been reluctant because I dont have a level spot to park it here at home; I'd need to do it at a compsite. And frankly I'm nervous about attempting it.

This duplicates information from many posts within the "frame" section, but I will tailor it to you - we both have 2619 models, and they're roughly the same age. On my 2619, (roughly the same age as yours), the bars for the front edge of the front shell lost considerable power over all my years of use, and they are now adjusted ALL-THE-WAY-IN for maximum lifting power at the very front. The rear bars of the front shell, in contrast, are now adjusted for slightly less power than they originally had from the factory.

If you can pull it out on the driveway or street and use the leveling jacks to bring the un-lifted TM "pretty close" to level in both directions (front to back, side-to side), then you can do the torsion adjustments first. (And maybe, along with those adjustments, do your clip-and-clamp adjustments as well, after the front shell torsion bars are well-matched with proper amounts of torque adjustment.)

You need a $9-12 hitch ball wrench, available from most any WalMart or RV parts place. The smaller of the two twelve-point socket ends fits the TM adjustment bolts. If lifting the front shell has been your biggest issue, as it has been with my trailer, tighten those two bolts in the front-most corners: Turn the bolt heads "up" and closer to the TM floor, with fewer threads below the threaded socket. Because they have never been adjusted before, they will be really hard to turn - you will probably need to tape a longer piece of pipe to the wrench, to get enough leverage.

Do all turning with with the front shell UP and clamped. Then push it towards "lowered position", but you don't need to clamp it between making adjustments. Turn no more than 1/4 of the way around each time, before raising and lowering the front shell twice to let the bars "work in" to the new positioning.

Note the resting position of the REAR END of the front shell in lowered position, it should be roughly 5" above the still-clamped rear shell (give or take an inch). That rear end should be also even from side to side. Adjust the rear bars for the front shell if it's to high, or wasn't left with enough rise still remaining when it came to rest.

In adjusting *rear* bars of the *front* shell, be careful that you are adjusting the screws for the BIGGER bars (front shell), and not the screws for the thinner bars (the smaller rear shell). Also be careful to note that the screws affect the lift on the opposite side from the screws.

Your final adjustments will be no more than 1/16 of the way around ( just one-quarter of a quarter circle). The resting "down " position of the front edge (of the front shell) should not be more than 1" above the two black rubber "bounce protectors", in resting lowered position. If it is actually touching the protectors, that's OK - but if it hits them hard and stays down hard, with to much difficulty to lift - then you need either more power on the front bars or less power on the rear bars (of the front shell).
- - - -
When it's looking pretty good, I would then drop to "rested and lowered" position a final time. Then try to adjust your existing hook (on the lift arm) to be approximately level and at the correct height to catch the upper shells' clamp.

I'd buy all new lockwashers, bolts, and nuts for this joint. (Not SS, it's too weak. But not stronger than Grade-5, because higher strength rusts faster). There seems to have been a lot of exposure and scratching/sliding on the lift arm end, maybe hit it with rustoleum primer and white before doing any reassembly?

[nmaiers]

I'm going tomorrow to get the new hardware. I'm thinking maybe, maybe, I can adjust this weekend at the campsite, assuming I can get the wrench from Walmart. I'll circle back with my results.

[Larryjb]

Rick, does it look like the lift arm bolt holes have been torn out? Those bolts seem to line up with the bottom edge of the lift arm. He may need to fabricate a piece of 1/8" aluminum plate and bolt it to the lift arm.

Replacing a lift arm could be a real pain, but not impossible.