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09-02-2010, 06:46 PM
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#11
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Guest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott O
"But I think you are being a bit alarmist given the description of the problem."
The post above mine mentioned the function of the switch to be an annoyance. It is anything but an annoyance.
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Scott,
The switch is designed as a safety device. No question about that. A reread of my short post does not challenge in any way the the switch's function. That the switch has failed (requiring adjustment is a failure) on a good number of different 2720's IS AN ANNOYANCE! That yours works fine means YOU don't have to deal with the problems others like myself do. End of rant, BP falling, life is good, lets go camping.
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09-07-2010, 04:05 PM
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#12
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Guest
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It is really easy on my 2720 to test the switch. I just go into the rear storage compartment and clip a sufficiently large wire with alligator clips on both ends onto the two lugs on the switch. If that turns the lights on, and pushing the switch (button) in by hand from the inside does not, then I know that I have a bad switch that prevents power from reaching the rear shell.
I can find nothing annoying about the existence of that switch.
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09-08-2010, 07:38 AM
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#13
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Guest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PopBeavers
It is really easy on my 2720 to test the switch. I just go into the rear storage compartment and clip a sufficiently large wire with alligator clips on both ends onto the two lugs on the switch. If that turns the lights on, and pushing the switch (button) in by hand from the inside does not, then I know that I have a bad switch that prevents power from reaching the rear shell.
I can find nothing annoying about the existence of that switch.
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Pop,
I've not questioned the purpose or value of the switch. The annoyance is that the switch on many trailers including mine do not function properly without requiring adjustment or shimming. I certainly don't need a contraption of alligator clips to test it. All I have to do is lay down the walls and press the switch button. The lights turn on with the depress and off with the release. The malfunction on mine (as well as others in this thread), is that the rear shower wall does not depress the switch enough to turn the lights on in the trailer without adjustment or shimming.
Joe
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09-08-2010, 09:27 AM
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#14
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Guest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Daddy
Pop,
I've not questioned the purpose or value of the switch. The annoyance is that the switch on many trailers including mine do not function properly without requiring adjustment or shimming. I certainly don't need a contraption of alligator clips to test it. All I have to do is lay down the walls and press the switch button. The lights turn on with the depress and off with the release. The malfunction on mine (as well as others in this thread), is that the rear shower wall does not depress the switch enough to turn the lights on in the trailer without adjustment or shimming.
Joe
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Sorry for the confusion.
After determining that the switch was functioning, just not getting pressed in far enough, I used a piece of cardboard to get me through the weekend.
At home I slightly loosened the nut on the top, then slightly loosened the nut in the rear compartment, guessing how much based on the thickness of the cardboard I had used. Then I went back inside and tightened the top nut.
Total elapsed time for the adjustment was not more than 10 minutes.
I can't fault the factory too much. It worked fine for about three years.
I suspect that what happened is that the bottom of the wall became worn from depressing the switch. I suppose that the factory could install a metal plate on the bottom of the wall at the spot that will eventually wear, according to my theory.
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09-08-2010, 10:13 AM
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#15
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Guest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PopBeavers
Sorry for the confusion.
After determining that the switch was functioning, just not getting pressed in far enough, I used a piece of cardboard to get me through the weekend.
At home I slightly loosened the nut on the top, then slightly loosened the nut in the rear compartment, guessing how much based on the thickness of the cardboard I had used. Then I went back inside and tightened the top nut.
Total elapsed time for the adjustment was not more than 10 minutes.
I can't fault the factory too much. It worked fine for about three years.
I suspect that what happened is that the bottom of the wall became worn from depressing the switch. I suppose that the factory could install a metal plate on the bottom of the wall at the spot that will eventually wear, according to my theory.
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Wayne,
We can agree to disagree about who's 'fault' it is.
I do want to thank you for telling me how I can access the bottom of the switch.
Joe
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09-08-2010, 10:15 AM
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#16
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,115
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Wayne -
I did exactly as you did. Cardboard as a temporary fix, a postage-stamp-size piece of thin steel for a permanent fix. It was quicker than adjusting the nuts.
Bill
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09-08-2010, 01:33 PM
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#17
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Downsville, Louisiana
Posts: 1,069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Daddy
....We can agree to disagree about who's 'fault' it is.....
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I find it a little hard to believe that you think that Trailmanor is some how at fault because you have a misadjusted or faulty switch on your 6 year old TM that you bought used a couple of months ago.
__________________
Mike Laupp
2013 Jayco Eagle Premier 351RLTS 5er - Honda 2000i x2 w ext. run tank
2017 F350 King Ranch ultimate CCLB SRW 6.7L V8 TD Fx4 BakFlip F1 & BakBox
TM History: '97 2720, '02 2720SL, '03 2720SL, '04 3326K. 2001 - 2012 yrs owned.
1990 Isuzu Trooper II 283 V6
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09-08-2010, 05:24 PM
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#18
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Guest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill
Wayne -
I did exactly as you did. Cardboard as a temporary fix, a postage-stamp-size piece of thin steel for a permanent fix. It was quicker than adjusting the nuts.
Bill
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The advantage of your technique is that you eliminate the risk of over tightening the nut on the switch, which will break the switch.
Don't ask why I know this.
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09-08-2010, 06:52 PM
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#19
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Guest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjlaupp
I find it a little hard to believe that you think that Trailmanor is some how at fault because you have a misadjusted or faulty switch on your 6 year old TM that you bought used a couple of months ago.
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If I were the only person with such an issue, I'd agree with you, however according to other entries on this site, the problem is somewhat widespread. A conscientious manufacturer wants to know about such failures so they can incorporate engineering change within their manufacturing process to eliminate future failures. IMHO, rationalizing why it is ok for failures to occur is a cancer within our society that has reduced the acceptability and marketability of US made items. Honda, Toyota and Nissan are three examples. (Please lets not discuss the recent and temporary Toyota situation, who by the way are far stronger than GM) Just try to find a US made home electronics device.
My 2 cents
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