scraping bottom

Yikes! This makes me nervous. This all goes away with a WDH, correct? it has it's own hitch that replaces the one we reversed?

[LoveToCamp]

Correct. Properly set-up, a WDH allows the trailer and the tow vehicle to ride level. Your headlights won't be illuminating the sky.

[scrubjaysnest]

You still have to get the ball tight on the hitch. I just turn the hitch side ways in the receiver and tighten with a two foot breaker bar and socket. Along with a 2 foot wrench to fit the ball. I also bought a 6000 # rated ball. Forget the locktite. We have put about 8 k miles on the TM since Mar 2014, 5500 from Dec 2014 to Mar 2015 and the ball is still tight. When we towed our TM home I used a standard hitch with a two inch rise....we made it, the back of the truck dropped about 2 inches from the tongue weight. As soon as we got it home I set up the WDH. Typical height to the top of the ball is 18 " but it may vary a bit from one TV to another. Ours is set at 18" with the WDH and everything tows level.

[Padgett]

Everyone is different. With the trailer towing package my jeep drops about an inch in the rear and I do not see any change in headlights.

For reasons associated with my TM, I do not use a WDH and have never noticed any sway even at 70. Do have a set of air lifts that I have never bothered to install. Just not needed.

Have several thousand miles on it now, all in Florida. That said every TV is different as is how people drive. YMMV.

ps I keep trying to tell people that the wheelbase is not as important as the ratio of the wheelbase to the distance from the centerline of the rear axle to the center of the hitch ball. Since for my short-tail jeep the ratio is right on 3:1 (higher is better) I think that is a lot of the reason it tows so well.

[Bill]

Originally Posted by Padgett

I keep trying to tell people that the wheelbase is not as important as the ratio of the wheelbase to the distance from the centerline of the rear axle to the center of the hitch ball. Since for my short-tail jeep the ratio is right on 3:1 (higher is better) I think that is a lot of the reason it tows so well.

I agree that axle-to-ball distance is important. But the rest of the situation is that the "wheelbase" of the TM competes with the wheelbase of the tow vehicle for control of the rig. When the TM pushes the rear of the tow vehicle sideways, it is trying to swing the tow vehicle around. It is the wheelbase of the tow vehicle that resists it. If a rig has the suggested 3:1 ratio on the tow vehicle, but a really short wheelbase, it may be asking for trouble.

Just my thought.

Bill

[Padgett]

You can do a lot of things from modeling the whole structure with six degrees of freedom and compliance interpolation for the tires against the vertical deflection of the headlights.

You can compare WDH, antisway bars, axle loading on all three (or four with a 3326). Traction Contol, tow settings for the trans, engine and trans oil coolers. EGT, CHT, PTSD, and LSMFT.

Or just buy a tow vehicle with a factory towing package, independant front and rear suspension, and swaybars at both ends that is that is known to do well with a TM.

Preferably one that when not towing you can just flip the fobic to a parking attendant at a nice restaurant.

[davlin]

I bet there's a lot of forum folks too young for "LSMFT." You're dating yourself Padgett!

er...I guess that means I am too.

Dave

[Redtail Cruiser]

Scratchin my head trying to figure out what "Lucky Strike Means Fine Tabacco" has to do with towing.

[Padgett]

Well there is a second meaning popular in the Durham-Chapel Hill area in the early 60's but I shall say no more.

[davlin]

Thanks, Padgett, for being our forum OMAG. (Can't Google this one!)

Dave