Set up and leveling question

Hello all TM Pro’s

I am proud owner of a 06 2619. I posted prior in the camps sites area. This was a big step for me as I am a single mom. I brought home my TM last week - I do have to admit I drove white knuckled as I have never pulled anything before. I then had to get my neighbor to back it in my driveway. A few days latter I got brave and tried myself – my neighbors got a big laugh but I can proudly say than after 1 ½ hours – I got it in the drive myself!! Then with the help of my 6 and 9 yr old boys and a trailer dolly, we got it in the garage. Today I practiced with the set up and tear down. I think I am getting the hang of it. My question is with the leveling and stabilizers. Do you put down the stabilers before or after you open the TM. I though it was prior to but since the bumper storage can not be opened with the TM closed then where do you keep the crank?. Also is there an easy way to level. I have a bubble leveler which I put on the counter by the sink but the running in and out to crank more seems to take forever. Again, thanks everybody for all you wonderful suggestions. We are hoping to take the TM to Galveston this weekend.

GM

I level my TM before opening. It is easier to open the shells when level. In an earlier post I mentioned my big ugly level just above the front window cover to get me close to level from inside the TV. I keep the crank in my TV along with my drill. Some advise, invest in a 18V cordless drill and a 3/8" 90 degree anchor bolt. You may have to have the bolt ground down some to fit easily, but the drill/bolt combo will save you untold amounts of time and labor in the leveling process. (Some people use a 1/4" allen wrench, but I prefer the rounder bolt).

Stick with it, backing will become so easy in such a short time you'll wonder why it was so difficult in the beginning.

P.S. I'd rather be in Corpus this weekend too. I just can't afford it with my three week trip coming up at the end of this month.

Hi, welcome to the group.
As far as easy leveling, you should level first using boards under the wheels. Then you can use the jacks to fine tune the level & stabilize the TM. I also use the front mounted level on the TM,

NOTE::Be sure to put chokes in front & behind your wheels before you unhook the TV from the TM.

Keep trying.....it gets easier each time (We wish) but the fun you will have is worth it.

Have fun..............

Jack

We prefer the crank, well, hubby does. He keeps it in the bed of our truck.
More power to you Mom. Your sons will have great memories of family camping.

Originally Posted by greaves

Hello all TM Pro’s
My question is with the leveling and stabilizers... Do you put down the stabilers before or after you open the TM. GM

Always level before opening! On our 1998 2619 I could pop the rear shell corner latches open to allow the shell to raise far enough to get into the bumper storage and retrieve the stabilizer jack handle.

I mounted this level [http://www.campingworld.com/browse/s...6440&src=SRQB] on the front of the TM as well as on our current trailer that I can view in my rear view mirror, to "get me in the ball park." We use this one to determine how many blocks to put under the trailer wheels to get the side-to-side level.

I mounted this level [http://www.campingworld.com/browse/s...5718&src=SRQB] on the tongue, so it can be seen as you raise/lower that tongue jack to get the front-to-back level.

Of course, you need to level the trailer first before you can install any level, so the suggestions Leon offered are very good and valuable.

a Word of caution on poping the back hold down clasps. Any level, stick on or otherwise, will change it's reading once you pop those back latches....The back end DOES raise up slightly making it easier to get into the bumper but the front of the rear shell is held in place by the front shell so you have introduced a slight aft to forward slope in your rear shell by doing this. If you now set a level on the top of the rear shell or use a stick on one the top of the shell is not parallel to the floor of the trailer any more. I guess you could always relatch the rear clasps after getting the handle. I am lucky that I can get in to my bumper without having to pop the back latches.

Originally Posted by Bill & Lisa

...a word of caution on popping the back hold down clasps. Any level, stick on or otherwise, will change it's reading once you pop those back latches...

I'm sorry about the confusion. To be clear, I should have put the suggestion about getting to the stabilizer jack handle in the back bumper AFTER the suggestions about mounting levels on the trailer to get it level. You only put down the stablizers AFTER you have the trailer level.

I hope that helps you understand the process.

[Denny_A]

.....but useful technique during stabilizer jack deployment.
Use only 3 jacks to fine tune the leveling. Then lower the final jack so that it does not change anything previously accomplished. The use of 3 jacks assures that no tortion load is placed on the frame. Such a load (leveling w/all 4 jacks) won't cause any damage (IMHO) but may cause misalignments here and there. The most likely component to be affected is the split entrance door. If, when the door is opened the door disengages, you may have a leveling-jack-induced misalignment.

When the trailer and tow vehicle remain connected on an overnite stop, and the leveling jacks are deployed, often the door will exhibit the noted disengagement. Same problem as above.

Denny_A

My door always disengaged no matter how level I was until I modified the door halves with the new latch. My dealer tried several times to get the doors aligned but never could get it corrected. The new (2007) latch works like a charm, $12.50 for the parts from the factory.

[Bill]

Ed -

Hoo, boy, this is what worries me about the new latch. If the upper wall (which holds the upper door half) and the lower wall (which holds the lower door half) are not parallel, then the door halves will try to separate as they swing. In fact, they HAVE to separate, since they are not swinging in the same plane. And if you constrain them, prevent them from separating, then something else has to give. And my bet is that hinges may bend.

A couple years ago, Denny_A posted an excellent tutorial on how to make sure the walls are parallel, and how to make them parallel if they are not. The procedure was very simple. Denny, where is it?

Perhaps I'm playing Chicken Little here, but I don't think so.

Bill