New Solar Install

Padgett · 04-29-2015, 05:23 PM

Know there is a thirteen page intro to solar from 2013 but want to focus a little closer.

Have been acquiring stuff for a while, have two 100W mono panels from Renogy, a basic wiring kit to join the two plust 20' of hookup, and a little PWM Controller from Amazon with a LED readout. Just a basic set.

After trying a lot of configurations, longitudinal on top of the rear module seemed best. Overhangs just a little but above anyone's head and no higher than the front modue (and shielded by it when on the road).

Does rely on that end of the TM being in the sun but does also provide some shade (three panels would be better from that standpoint). Also even if only giving 60% that would be 10 amps at 12v.

The roof seems very thin & the #10 self drillng screws did now seem to get much grip so after washing the roof, I filled the area under the mounting foot with caulk and let the screws squish. Once dried that plus the screws should hold in place.

Next step is the wiring. Right now it is just hanging down on the street side. Any uggestions for routing ? Am thnking about some channel to the bottom of the module, across to the rear arm, down the arm and over to the frame, then up through the floor. Looks like an area above the rear 12v socket that would be close to the battery and not interfere with the folding bathroom walls.

Anyone have a better suggestion ?

tentcamper · 04-29-2015, 08:23 PM

I would check out this thread. It seems a lot of people have followed this method.

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ht=wayne+solar

LoveToCamp · 04-29-2015, 09:25 PM

I used a concealment strip like Wayne did in the referenced post. Got it at Home Depot. Adhesive back, then silicone along the edges, just because I go overboard.

Too late now, but I didn't drill any holes. I used 3M VHB tape, as most of the solar-installation threads recommend.

After running the channel down to the bottom of the shell, I used zip-ties to secure it to existing wire runs, and where there were none, I added the cable loops to the existing screws in the bottom of the shell. Very clean installation.

I have poly panel, and I get full battery charge daily, even without direct sun. You should do fine, but doesn't the entire mono panel have to be in the sun for good charging? Poly panels tolerate shade, I believe I have read. I am happy with my poly panel.

Will be interested to hear your experience after a few outings with varying shade situations. Enjoy no generator noise!

Padgett · 04-29-2015, 10:10 PM

I've used that strip before and suspect either HD or Lowes will have. Biggest issue is where to put the controller since would prefer somewhere I can read the display. Is also supposed to be bolted to a non flammable surface close to the battery.

My panels are monocrystalline since they seem to be better for Florida than poly panels. They seem to be larger than the ones people have used before.

Tomorrow I plan to install the GC2 batteries and the controller then run some tests prior to buttoming everything up.

scrubjaysnest · 04-30-2015, 05:17 AM

I used the Cord Mate II like Wayne. Ty-rap the wire to the rear arm with about a 6 inch loop at the shell edge. Did several opening closings to get the loop they way I wanted. The CC needs to be as close to the batteries as possible unless it has remote temp comp and voltage sensing. I ran 1X2 aluminum channel(like used in screen porches) across the wall about a foot above the batteries to mount the CC to. This also gives a good place to mount terminal strips, breakers, or fuse blocks.

Wire from the solar panel was routed through the a cord grip into the bumper and then through the floor into where the batteries are. A clamp for the wires
about a foot above the floor routes the wires well. Pvc was used to protect the wires going through the floor.

You can see the cc mounting and wiring here http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...0&postcount=14

Padgett · 04-30-2015, 07:36 AM

Agree the panel needs to be close but would rather have it accessible from inside the TM. Also with the two new GC2s plus the generator for AC, it is a little crowded in there. Am a little concerned about 200 lbs (2 GC2s and the generator) essentially on the rear bumper but will need to see how it tows. Still need to figure out a battery enclosure.

scrubjaysnest · 05-01-2015, 04:56 AM

Harveyrv, Wayne, had a nice double battery box for the GC-2's on the tongue of the 2619 they had. Did a quick search but didn't come up with the thread the post was in with pics. The post said where he ordered it from.

Padgett · 05-01-2015, 05:49 AM

Problem is not finding a box. Problem is that there is no room for a box. The two GC2s slide in exactly & only movement possible is toward center, are wedged against walls on three sides.

Plan is to make tray from cookie sheet.

Padgett · 05-03-2015, 02:54 PM

OK Wiring is in place but not yet trimmed/concealed. Is enough to do load testing though.

1) Wired the WFO directly to the battery and PWM controller is in parallel.
2) Used the LOAD connection for the Inverter (is actually 800W surge, 400W continuous which should be enough.
3) Am getting charge from solar even when sun is behind cloud but cannot quantify yet. Seems to be at least 90W with cloud and over 160W in afternoon sun.
4) Decided to put controller in battery compartment to minimise lead lengths (under a foot)
5) There is a 3.5x5" aluminum plate behind the controller to dissipate heat
6) If all works out, the next step is to make pretty.
7) Am thinking about a male-male 120VAC jumper and plug inverter into 120v outlet next to WFO converter when dry camping to put 120VAC on all outlets. If I turn the WFO receptical breaker off, this should prevent any backing current through the on-board charger.

scrubjaysnest · 05-04-2015, 05:07 AM

Looks like your getting there, while making it pretty consider getting rid of the in line fuse holder and wire nut. This may already be on your to do list. They are know failure areas. The 400 watt inverter will need a 40 amp breaker or fuse. Just an FYI doing some load testing with our 400 watt inverter(83% eff) and with 12 feet of 10 awg, drawing 12 amps of load volts into the inverter was right at 11 with 12.7 at the batteries. Good example of why the inverter needs to be as close to the batts as possible with as large connecting wire as possible.