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Old 09-06-2004, 09:40 PM   #21
wesslvm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wesslvm
You of course are correct, the nut COULD HAVE com loose, however there were no markings indicating a nut was ever tightened against the aluminum plating. Also, the door has not been properly aligned since initial delivery which is what led me to think the nut has never been there.
Good news, I had no problems with the door clip coming loose during our camping over the weekend. I believe the problem all along has been the missing nut on the door supports. Now that everything is tight, the door opens and closes much smoother and with little noise compared to the problems I had since delivery.

One more problem solved.
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Old 06-27-2005, 12:49 PM   #22
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Default Door problem w/used 2000 2720

My wife and I checked out a 2720 this past weekend. It looks OK for a 2000 model, but, has a problem with the door frame . Is this something I should be concerned about ?

We have about convinced ourselves to purchase this Trailmanor to replace our pop-up.

Any Comments??

Thanks,

Joes Junk Raleigh, NC
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Old 06-30-2005, 04:17 PM   #23
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You need to be a little more specific about the nature of the problem.

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Old 07-08-2005, 08:24 AM   #24
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Default Entrance Door Sagging

It seems that the bottom half of the door is sagging (or pulling away from the top half-there's about a 1/4 gap from the left side to the right side.) I don't know how to describe it. Could it be that the trailer is not sitting quite level? Hubby is talking about constructing some kind of hook (maybe hook & eye) to hook the bottom to the top half of the door.

Before he begins this new project I thought I'd get some feedback from anyone else that may have had, or has this problem.

Suggestions are appreciated.
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Old 07-08-2005, 08:28 AM   #25
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Wendy (amp17408)
My door sags also. It happens when the jacks are not in place. I have to lift the door to get it to latch. After putting the leveling jacks down, the door closes properly. Apparently there is some give in the shell that causes this.
Bob
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Old 07-10-2005, 09:13 AM   #26
Bill
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Wendy -

You say there is a gap between the upper half and lower half of the doors. Before you do anything else, try this. Mate the two halves, and close thte door almost all the way (but don't latch it). Now look at the seam where the two halves meet (bottom of the upper half, top of the lower half). Is the gap (if any) constant across the width of the doors? Now slowly swing the door open until it stands straight out from the body of the trailer. Did the gap change as the door swung outward?

If the gap changed as the door opened, then the wall of the lower shell is not quite straight up and down - not quite perpendicular to the floor. Fortunately, there is an easy fix, discovered and written up by Denny_A a couple years ago. It takes only about a minute (and a socket wrench) to put things right. Use the Search tool, plugging in Denny's name and the word "door" to find the discussion and his procedure for the fix. It works very well - I've done it.

I would not recommend a hook-and-eye to keep the doors together - I think it would pull out.

Bill
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Old 07-14-2005, 07:40 AM   #27
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Default More door problems

Just purcased a 2000 2720. It needs some love. Got most of the simple problems solved. The I got to the door. Bottom door seems to work fine. Top door seems to work fine. The problem is that they overlap by 1/4 to 3/8 inch. Looks like the whole mechism (top) is abour 1/2 inch too low. Can this be adjusted? I'll call the factory this afternoon to see what they say and order a bunch of clips.

Thanks for the forum....
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Old 07-14-2005, 03:49 PM   #28
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I'm not quite getting the picture. The top and bottom halves are supposed to overlap by 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch, the upper door outside of the inner door. Then they are bound together by the white plastic latch (inside the top half) to form one solid door. Are you saying that they overlap more than this - so much that the two halves won't mate?

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Old 08-29-2005, 08:31 PM   #29
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Default door

I've got a 2003 2720SL with a bad door problem also. Weak clips are causing the alignment problem several of you have mentioned. I also have the added problem that the latch in the door just jammed in the out position. This locked me out of the trailer. I had not fastened the bed with the slide pin to the bathroom wall so was able to lift the bed and crawl in. Removed the latch and have been trying to find a new one. Factory says it can only sell me a whole new lock and latch set including the dead bolt. Anyone ever find a less costly solution to this? Thanks.
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Old 08-30-2005, 06:35 AM   #30
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As Mike, Hal, and Dee noted in another thread, the door latch seems to be a standard household lock set. Buy a decent-quality one for about $25 at Home Depot, Lowe's, etc. For another $5, they will re-key it to work with the key for the deadbolt.

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