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Old 08-30-2022, 12:21 AM   #1
stiks471
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Default AC Riser Gap with Roof

I am going to redo the Dicor on the AC unit. There is a fairly large gap in some spots, , at least 1/4 inch, between riser and roof. It feels like there is some “hot glue” or similar adhesive that was used at the factory. It’s the gray/clear stuff attached to the underside of the riser. Should I try to reglue the riser down before redoing the Dicor? I thought about maybe putting window foam seal in the gap as well so it’s not just all Dicor. The trailer is two years old but appears to have been stored uncovered outside.
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Old 08-30-2022, 10:41 PM   #2
rich2468
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Originally Posted by stiks471 View Post
I am going to redo the Dicor on the AC unit. There is a fairly large gap in some spots, , at least 1/4 inch, between riser and roof. It feels like there is some “hot glue” or similar adhesive that was used at the factory. It’s the gray/clear stuff attached to the underside of the riser. Should I try to reglue the riser down before redoing the Dicor? I thought about maybe putting window foam seal in the gap as well so it’s not just all Dicor. The trailer is two years old but appears to have been stored uncovered outside.
Stiks,
What you have is likely a manufactoring defect, which I also had on my 2021 2922KB (production date of 8/2020).

TremPro RTV silicone calk is what the factory used under the Air Conditioning skirt. It was not applied correctly and the thin black AC skirt has warped causing the gap you see.

I discovered after a couple months of ownership that my TrailManor had a 1/2 inch gap between the AC skirt and the top shell (from the factory) which was covered in a generous amount of Dicor lap sealant, which obviously would not provide a water tight seal for long.

Many will say that the AC skirt is cosmetic, that the gap you have is no big deal, and that the gasket between the Air Conditioning plenum and the TrailManor's Air Conditioning riser is what keeps the weather out of the top of the TM.
-That's not completely true.

Once water makes its way under the AC skirt, and stays there, the AC riser framing hardware will rust out pretty quickly. You have to wonder how long the AC riser itself will be ok without the framing hardware in place.

TrailManor has used nickel plated screws in the corners of the AC risers of the recent built units and the screw heads will become unviable after just 90 days of high moisture exposure. (I had to drill two of mine out when I did my repair...and replaced all with stainless steel).

Since I was 8 hours from the closest TM dealer, Adam (with TrailManor parts) shipped me a new AC skirt, TremPro RTV silicone calk, and Dicor lap sealant for me to do my own repair. Seeing the possibility of the new AC skirt warping as well, I added a marine gasket around the perimeter of the new skirt before installing it and have had no reoccurance. The noise level inside the camper with the Air Conditioning running is also significiently lower without the plastic AC skirt vibrating against the TrailManor's aluminum roof shell.

Without elevating your AC unit well above the AC skirt, its doubtful that you're going to be able to get any adheasive where you need to under the skirt and since you're trying to correct what is likely the same factory defect, I'd reach out out to TrailManor to see if they will cover this under warranty.

If you do the repair yourself, I highly suggest adding a marine seal around the AC skirt to minimize chances of a reoccurance. I used the following from Steel Rubber: https://www.steelerubber.com/push-on-seal-70-3582-377

Additionally- if you do tackle this yourself, I have a simple write up of my experience replacing my AC skirt last year which I'll be happy to share.
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Old 08-31-2022, 12:44 AM   #3
stiks471
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Wow, thanks for that great info. Yes, I would happily read the write up. I can confirm what you have written. I spent quite a few hours removing the Dicor, and cleaning, saw the silicone which I thought was a gasket. I wound up pulling the silicone bead because it was not sticking at all. Covered in dust, dirt, debris, which I assumed was a bad install at the factory. And I can confirm a rusted screw laying on the roof under the skirt which I didn’t think anything of until just now. And some rust in the clear silicone bead.

I tried butyl tape thinking it would hold the skirt down. I was halfway done sealing the skirt with dicor when I realized it raised back up. Unfortunately, I need it water tight this weekend so will put lots of dicor on and tackle the project once all the parts are here.

I thought about using 3M 4200 marine sealant to hold the skirt down but it definitely needs an instant bond.

I’ll reach out to Adam.
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Old 08-31-2022, 07:56 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by stiks471 View Post
Wow, thanks for that great info. Yes, I would happily read the write up. I can confirm what you have written. I spent quite a few hours removing the Dicor, and cleaning, saw the silicone which I thought was a gasket. I wound up pulling the silicone bead because it was not sticking at all. Covered in dust, dirt, debris, which I assumed was a bad install at the factory. And I can confirm a rusted screw laying on the roof under the skirt which I didn’t think anything of until just now. And some rust in the clear silicone bead.

I tried butyl tape thinking it would hold the skirt down. I was halfway done sealing the skirt with dicor when I realized it raised back up. Unfortunately, I need it water tight this weekend so will put lots of dicor on and tackle the project once all the parts are here.

I thought about using 3M 4200 marine sealant to hold the skirt down but it definitely needs an instant bond.

I’ll reach out to Adam.
If you are looking for an "instant bond" neither of those products is suitable. I think that 3M 4200 bonds faster but still takes several days.

To avoid having a real mess to deal with when you decide to do the final repair, I'd suggest stuffing the gap with a putty and or eternabond tape. Eternabond can be removed with a heat gun.

If you are going to be towing the trailer, almost any caulking will pull lose if it is not fully cured. That A/C unit bounces around quite a bit on the roof as the roof flexes.
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Old 08-31-2022, 09:03 AM   #5
rich2468
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Default AC Skirt Repair/Replace on 2021 2922KB

Hi- I hope this this brief write up helps. Feel free to PM me for any specifics.

Also please note that you will have to first open your TrailManor and remove the inside A/C vent cover, electrical power, and mounting nuts. Once that's done, you will need to close the shells and place thin plywood down to use as a work surface to protect the external roof shell.
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Old 08-31-2022, 01:10 PM   #6
stiks471
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Originally Posted by Wavery View Post
If you are looking for an "instant bond" neither of those products is suitable. I think that 3M 4200 bonds faster but still takes several days.

To avoid having a real mess to deal with when you decide to do the final repair, I'd suggest stuffing the gap with a putty and or eternabond tape. Eternabond can be removed with a heat gun.

If you are going to be towing the trailer, almost any caulking will pull lose if it is not fully cured. That A/C unit bounces around quite a bit on the roof as the roof flexes.
Agreed. That’s a good idea. Probably what the marine seal may accomplish. Some rope putty or plumbers putty. Wish I thought if that yesterday.
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Old 08-31-2022, 01:20 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by rich2468 View Post
Hi- I hope this this brief write up helps. Feel free to PM me for any specifics.

Also please note that you will have to first open your TrailManor and remove the inside A/C vent cover, electrical power, and mounting nuts. Once that's done, you will need to close the shells and place thin plywood down to use as a work surface to protect the external roof shell.
Wow, awesome!
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