So I finally got my solar installed so here is my install info/instructions!
Parts List:
1x
Renogy 250W Monocrystaline Panel but looks like it has been replaced with the
Renogy 260W
1x EPSolar
2215BN MPPT Charge Controller
1x
MT-50 Remote Meter
1x
Battery Temp Sensor
1x
25' Network Cable (to connect monitor to controller)
1x 4-Pack
Renogy Z-Brackets
1x
50' 10AWG MC4 Solar Cable
2x
30A Weatherproof Circuit Breaker
1x
Renogy 8ft 10AWG Battery Tray Cables
1x
Roll of 3M RP32 VHB Tape
1x
Cordmate II Kit
1x
Loctite Marine Adhesive Sealant
Thoughts:
The reason I decided to go with a single 250W panel vs. multiple 100W panels as the majority of others have done is purely cost (and slightly it was one less panel to install, 2 fewer connections to make...etc). Currently looks like the 250W panel is not being offered anymore, and the ones on Amazon are much more expensive. The 260W on Renogy's website is about $50 cheaper than 2 of their 100W panels (and you get 60 extra watts)! Next, my personality type is such that I hate spending money on something and then not getting the full benefit from it (i.e. MPPT vs PWM). With a PWM controller, it may have met my power needs for less money, but if I'm buying a 250W panel, I want to get the most out of it I can, even if it means spending a little bit more on a controller. The EPSolar Tracer series MPPT controllers got good reviews and were cheaper than other alternatives. The panel and the controller are the "biggest" components of the system and are what took the longest to decide on. Everything else is easy to pick up.
Installation:
First thing I did was mount the z-brackets to the panel. All the hardware was included with the brackets. Next I cleaned the rear shell and marked the spots on the roof where the z-brackets were going to be. I cleaned these spots with rubbing alcohol to get a nice clean surface. Due to the slight curvature of the rear shell I needed to bend the z-brackets slightly to get them to sit flush against the roof. I cleaned the bottom of the z-brackets with rubbing alcohol as well and then placed a strip of the 3M RP32 VHB tape on each of the brackets. I had someone help me lift the panel to the roof and placed it on some blocks of wood on either side of the panel so we could get it in the right position before placing the panel down. Once the panel was down I put some of the Loctite Marine sealant/adhesive around the edge of the brackets to provide a little extra strength and to help keep water/dirt away from the VHB tape.
Now that the panel was securely mounted to the roof I started working on routing the cables down the street side wall and down the lift arm as many others have done. I measured and cut the cordmate kit to conceal the wires. I routed it down one of the lift arms and drilled a hole in the steel plate to route the wires through. Then I ran the wires through the frame to the front of the TM. The 50' solar cable has a male and female MC4 connector installed, so you cut the cable in half to install (25' cable with male end and 25' cable with female end). 25' ended up being a little too short to make the run from the rear roof, down the side of the TM, through the frame to the front of the TM, so I had to solder some wire left over from the battery tray cable to extend the length.
I mounted the MPPT controller to the front box of the TM (outside). Since my batteries are mounted on the tongue of the trailer, this provides a short run from the controller to the batteries. I cleaned the front box with rubbing alcohol and put VHB tape around the back of the charge controller and mounted it. The controller is covered by the front shell when the TM is closed, and when open, the bed and shell keep it protected.
I made all the connections, and put one of the 30A breakers between the panel and the controller (to disconnect the solar from the system) and I used the other one as a battery disconnect on the + wire from the battery to the TM. I installed a 30A inline fuse (blade type) between the charge controller and battery which I can pull out if I want to disconnect the charge controller from the battery.
Finally I ran the 25' network cable from the charge controller, under the TM, halfway up the frame and entered the TM through the hole in the floor that contained the freshwater drain hose. This put the cable inside the TM under the street side dinette bench. I then routed it through the wall into the refrigerator compartment (in the back), then through the other wall to the area under the sink. I mounted the remote monitor next to the control panel and thermostat. I connected the network cable to the monitor and powered the system up to make sure everything worked.
First trip to Sequoia our site was pretty well shaded, but the solar still seemed to work pretty well. I need to change some settings on the charge controller to match my battery setup, but I seemed to go from 12.4V (~75% capacity) in the morning (after running heater all night) and the 2-3 hours of sun we would get got me back up to 12.9V (100%).
Photos of the install below.
A big thank you to all on the forum who answered my questions and who have provided information on their installs!
250W on Rear Shell w/ MPPT
Linear Mode
