TrailManor Owner's Forum  

Go Back   TrailManor Owner's Forum > TrailManor Technical Discussions > Exterior
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-26-2014, 07:06 AM   #1
funpilot
TrailManor Master
 
funpilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 496
Default Opening and closing the TM trailers

Often I see threads where someone says it is hard to open the trailer and how nice it would be to do something easier. Without letting the "cat out of the bag", I may have thought of a way to do that but have a few questions.

1. Is it the initial lift or up to a certain point it is hard to do for some?
2. Or, is it hard for some, all the way through?
3. I have not seen anything about closing issues other than needing to step on the stirrups, is that right?
4. Also, is the opening issues only with the piece with the A/C on it (weight), or both sides?
5. Finally, does a solution require it to be electrical or will mechanical be sufficient?

If this is really only an isolated issue, let me know and will do a simple solution just for myself, and not one that can be retrofitted on all existing TMs easily.
funpilot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2014, 08:03 AM   #2
Padgett
TrailManor Master
 
Padgett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Orlando
Posts: 2,796
Default

Am still a bit of a newbie but have some idea:
1) It is all a matter of how well tuned the torsion bars (four on each module) are. If unbalanced it can be very difficult. When balanced it is a trade between easier opening vs closing.
2) For one person, the front is harder because it is difficult to lift from middle and raise the module evenly.
3) Generally the initial vertical lift is the hardest.
4) The rear is easier since you can lift from the middle. Force required is about the same. Front has bigger torsion bars to balance the weight of the AC.
5) An electronic system is possible now. The problem with electric motors is not torque but synchronization so both sides raise at the same rate. In the last century a mechanical linkage or shaft would have been required, today electronics will work.
5b) I've been noodling a U bracket about four feet long with a pivot so that you pull down on the bottom bar to raise the module. Major issue is the pivot point at the rear would need to be about two feet behind the bumper.

I do wish the factory would release the proper procedure for adjusting and balancing the torsion bars particularly since so many are now out of balance.

Following assumes all pivots are free and properly lubricated.

Adjustments should be made with both ends raised and locked to minimize the torque on the arms. I suspect it is some thing like with modules locked up, back off adjusters (takes an 18" 1 1/8" wrench like this ) until clear of bar (if possible) then tighten until just in contact. Tighten XXX turns (may be different for each pair, key is to be the same).

Close rear module first then release latches. forward end should be xxx" above latch position and rear should be xxx". For each xxx" out of adjustment, raise module fully then adjust each torque arm pair 1/8 turn either tighter or looser and retry until all four points for the module are in specification then adjust the forward module the same way.

At least that is how I would write such a dash 1 for field use. Am sure the factory has something similar but may use special gauges.

Key point is that I suspect the factory has one rear module linkage and one front. Differences in trailer length is all in the center body so linkage adjustment should be "one size fits all". Good indicator is that all coaches have the same headroom and just makes sense that arms and torsion bars (except for AC vs no AC) would be the same. Is why my Judge uses stiffer torsion bars on the trunk lid than a LeMans to hold the wing up (and one way to tell a clone).

Perhaps at a meet we could take a new TM and measure everything then create a procedure but I figure it would take three or four people to do it properly. Has this been done before ?
__________________
Looking for a 24/17 in or near Florida.
Padgett is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2014, 08:09 AM   #3
Redtail Cruiser
TrailManor Master
 
Redtail Cruiser's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: North San Diego County (Fallbrook)
Posts: 632
Default

If the torsion bars are adjusted correctly the shells only require about 40 pounds of lift to bring them up. The only reason it's hard is that the tongue on the front makes it so you can't easily do it from the center.

Closing is not an issue and again, if the torsion bars are adjusted correctly. I can close mine easily without the stirrups.

I don't know of any solution, mechanical or electrical, except the the design called the RISE, which uses a lift system to bring the trailer straight up, similar to the Hi-Lo.
__________________
Tim




"A man creates his own legacy. Create a legendary life"
Redtail Cruiser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2014, 08:11 AM   #4
funpilot
TrailManor Master
 
funpilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 496
Default

Thanks for the feedback. I posted this link on another thread that may make my efforts moot:

http://www.rvpowerlift.com/index.html

However, I do believe, based on your feedback, that I may have a solution for the front one with parts that one might already have at home if rvpowerlift is no longer available or too expensive. However, I really like what I see in the videos. Will ask them about it this week as I will be there.
funpilot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2015, 09:18 PM   #5
TstatMN
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Opening 2720

I am having difficulty getting both the front and back to open far enough to get the 4 corner (square) bars to latch with the pins. I have to do extreme pushing and pulling to get it set up. Any ideas on what I should fix or change?
  Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2015, 08:25 AM   #6
funpilot
TrailManor Master
 
funpilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 496
Default

On my TM it looks just like that on first blush. I have found that if I do nothing more than pull the side with the pin out just a bit that it lines up quite nicely and easily for me. Hope that trick works for you.
__________________
2015 3124KD
TV: 2005 Avalanche 1500 with Prodigy P3
Truma On-Demand Comfort Hot Water Heater
Dometic 1110 Compressor Refrigerator
BlueOx SwayPro Hitch
2.5 inch lift kit
Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C
Yada Wireless backup camera
funpilot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2015, 09:53 AM   #7
Padgett
TrailManor Master
 
Padgett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Orlando
Posts: 2,796
Default

Well times change. After 30 years I just retired and may have time for these things.

Have been thinking about several ways to assist the opening from a hand assist with pivot to an electric single screw mechanism mounted at top center.

The major appeal to the TM that neither the Rise nor the HiLo have is the rotary action that adds another 42" to each end (another 50 sq ft feet of living area).

The problem is that the target market (typically TM has built less than 500 coaches each year) and spead over so many different (but similar) models that some sort of hand assist is about all that can be justified.

I also suspect that it is much easier for two people to open a TM than one (particularly the front).

So will be thinking about it but honestly not a high priority.
__________________
Looking for a 24/17 in or near Florida.
Padgett is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2015, 10:33 AM   #8
kempert
Site Sponsor
 
kempert's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Homebase VA, nomad for 5 months a year
Posts: 306
Default

Opening and closing a TM should not be difficult. It's all about the torsion bars. If they're adjusted correctly, just about anyone should be able to do it. When my mom was over 70, I had her do it so she would know what to do in an emergency. She was shocked at how easy it was to do.

There used to be a "cheat sheet" posted on how to make the proper adjustments. All you need is a large wrench. I can't remember the size. Do a search and hopefully you'll find it.

You can always use the laws of physics to your advantage. Leave the front end low to open the front, then raise the front end to make it easier to open the rear. Of course, the opposite would be true to close it. I know I can't be the first person to realize this simple solution.
__________________
Kemper

2008 2720SL - 7 cross-country trips so far + ventures into western Canada
2002 2720SL - 70,000+ miles before being retired to the farm
2015 Ford F150

"A good life is when you assume nothing, do more, need less, smile often, dream big, laugh a lot and realize how blessed you are for what you have." -- Author Unknown
kempert is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2015, 10:38 AM   #9
Padgett
TrailManor Master
 
Padgett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Orlando
Posts: 2,796
Default

I use this wrench. Keep one in the trailer.
__________________
Looking for a 24/17 in or near Florida.
Padgett is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2015, 11:19 AM   #10
tentcamper
TrailManor Master
 
tentcamper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Somerset, OH
Posts: 1,868
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TstatMN View Post
I am having difficulty getting both the front and back to open far enough to get the 4 corner (square) bars to latch with the pins. I have to do extreme pushing and pulling to get it set up. Any ideas on what I should fix or change?

I had that issue. I found, I need to adjust the pocket stops. Now it stops and the square bars are dead on to the pins.

There are four adjustments on the camper, front most and rear most lift bars. The adjustments bolts are where the bars goes into the roof "pocket"

At the end of four bars on my camper there is a bolt that you adjust to increase or decrease how far the roof travel forward or aft. The bolt is hidden in the pocket when the roof is lifted. You have to adjust the bolt when the shell is lowered, because you don't have access to the bolts when the shell it's up. You adjust both sides of that shell until it stops where the square bar flips right on the pin. You will need to put it up and down many time during the adjustment to test your adjustment.

Losen bolts to open more, tighten to open less
__________________
Art & Joyce
Current camper: Motor Home
Previous: 2009, 3023-QB and 2003 2720
tentcamper is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Difficulty in opening and closing TM 2720 jerry snell Exterior 0 07-17-2009 06:36 PM
Sway arms, opening and closing TM JOEALAN Frame 8 08-16-2008 09:05 AM
Opening and Closing (One more time ...) Chris_Bauer General TrailManor Topics 1 10-12-2001 09:47 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:56 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 2022 Trailmanor Owners Page.