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Old 11-09-2010, 08:55 PM   #21
Wavery
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I have a battery carrier. That's not an issue. The 63# while bending over and working within the confines of the door opening is the issue. 10 Years ago it wouldn't have been a big deal. 10 years and 2 bouts with cancer has taken a lot of strength out of me.

Has anyone ever noticed if when you lift the bed platform, you have access to the that cabinet from the top?

Lowering the batteries down from inside the camper would be a piece of cake.
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Old 11-09-2010, 10:22 PM   #22
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Wayne - If you stop on by my place, I'd be more than happy to put the batteries into place for you. Shoot me a line if you'd like to do that.

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Old 11-09-2010, 10:31 PM   #23
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Wayne - If you stop on by my place, I'd be more than happy to put the batteries into place for you. Shoot me a line if you'd like to do that.

Dave
I appreciate the offer but if it comes to that, I'll have my son come over and help me with it. It's just sort of demoralizing to have to depend on others to do this stuff.

I have learned to respect my limits though and I know that if I try to muscle those darn things through that door, I will end up flat on my back for weeks.

Tomorrow, we are packing the camper for a 4 day camping trip. While I have the camper open, I will lift the bed platform and see if that rear compartment is accessible from inside the camper. If it is, it's a non-issue.

For this trip, I'm just going with the one 12V battery. It's fairly new and holding 12.7V so it shouldn't be a problem. I think that the solar panels will keep it topped up nicely.
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Old 11-09-2010, 11:10 PM   #24
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While I have the camper open, I will lift the bed platform and see if that rear compartment is accessible from inside the camper. If it is, it's a non-issue.
I have removed the rear bed, and the rear compartment is not accessible from the top. You have to go through the door. And you're not alone in having problems getting them in there -- I feel like I'm in a wrestling match getting them in there.

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Old 11-09-2010, 11:25 PM   #25
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I have removed the rear bed, and the rear compartment is not accessible from the top. You have to go through the door. And you're not alone in having problems getting them in there -- I feel like I'm in a wrestling match getting them in there.

Dave
Thanks for that response. Now I don't have to lift the platform.

Although, I don't see the harm in cutting a 4" hole in the top of that cabinet (I have a 4" hole saw). It's not like anyone will ever see it or any water would be able to get in there.

I'm just thinking of rigging up a pulley in the top of that cabinet for lifting the batteries.
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Old 11-10-2010, 09:37 AM   #26
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If you lift the bed, you will see that there is a flat wood panel over the top of the compartment, so you are not supposed to have access to the compartment from inside the TM. However, as I recall, the panel is some kind of thin (1/8"?) plywood, stapled into place, that would be easy to remove and replace. The only complication might be the electrical cutoff switch. Memory says that it might be mounted in the panel, but I could be wrong about that. Worst case, a quick cut with a skillsaw would detach a piece the panel, leaving it and the switch in place.

A bigger problem might be that even with access from the top, the battery is still way off center. You would be reaching across the collapsed bathroom wall to get at it.

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Old 11-10-2010, 10:37 AM   #27
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Bill is correct about the thin plywood and the batteries being off center from the inside aisle. I wish I had taken a picture. If you do remove the plywood or cut a hole, you'll have to remove the bed to do it. And with the bed removed, you can stand up back there while outside under the shell. Thus, dropping it in from the outside would be way easier than from inside.

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Old 11-10-2010, 01:19 PM   #28
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Quote:
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Bill is correct about the thin plywood and the batteries being off center from the inside aisle. I wish I had taken a picture. If you do remove the plywood or cut a hole, you'll have to remove the bed to do it. And with the bed removed, you can stand up back there while outside under the shell. Thus, dropping it in from the outside would be way easier than from inside.

Dave
Gotcha........that sounds like a plan and something that I can achieve without killing my back. I can easily set the batteries (one at a time) on the upper ledge, support my upper body with one hand and lower the battery down with the other.

I'm going to open the trailer in a little while. I'll have a look at it. I still haven't received my new battery box but if I get it today, I may be able to install my new batteries before leaving (tomorrow morning) for the weekend.
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Old 12-21-2010, 07:25 AM   #29
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Hey Wayne,

Santa has finally decided to bring us a solar panel setup but he has some questions

He is thinking about purchasing this http://cgi.ebay.com/SOLAR-PANEL-120-...item415521d26f SANTA WILL NOT BE PURCHASING FROM THIS COMPANY BECAUSE OF STUNNINGLY POOR CUSTOMER SERVICE! He'll probably go with the same company you did . . .

Anyway, it seems at one point you said you didn't think a controller is necessary but you did use one on your permanent installation. Can you clarify and perhaps give some advice on which one to get?

I'd like your advice first!

Thanks so much!

Malinda
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Old 12-21-2010, 08:38 AM   #30
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I use the MORNINGSTAR Prostar Charge Controller - 30 Amp 12 Volt. It provides room for expansion should you want to add more panels in the future. It also has an automatic battery conditioning stage. I got mine at affordable solar for $123.00.
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