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Old 06-07-2012, 08:24 PM   #21
Redhawk
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Interesting...thanks Dave and Bruce, I DO feel better seeing others connected the same place as mine. There have been several areas with issues caused by someone not knowing what they were doing working on it, I was hoping this wasn't another.
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Old 06-07-2012, 08:34 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brulaz View Post
And drilling through the side of the frame. (I cringe at the thought, but that's just my gut reaction)

What did you end up doing?
EDIT: From your remarks above, I guess you left them as installed.
Yep, you guessed it, but I still don't like it. I haven't done anything, as I too wasn't thrilled with drilling a hole in the frame at the tongue. But as I said in that earlier thread, I think our concerns are unfounded considering those huge holes the factory cut in the frame for the torsion bars to pass through. I've also drilled a hole in the frame near the rear of the TM to attach a plumbing shield.

I'm going to make a point to look at some heavy commercial trailers when I come across them to see how their chains are attached.

I also hate the way the WDH chain hangers attach to the tongue -- the bolt simply tightens up against the frame, which I'm sure puts a dimple there, thinning the metal and making an excellent spot for rust to form. Obviously, this isn't a TM-specific issue. But maybe the TM will long be in the junk yard before that becomes an issue.

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Old 06-08-2012, 09:32 AM   #23
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If I had this problem, and was inclined to make my own, I would use the elevator cable that I have. It is about 1/4 inch diameter, and is rated for 2,000 pounds as I recall.

However, it is not coiled and I doubt that you could coil it. It would run in a straight line.

But it certainly gets past the weight issue.

I have had it since the early 70's. It is just as shiny now as it was then. I think it is stainless.
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Old 06-09-2012, 11:48 AM   #24
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Purdue Extension has a good book on trailer-to-truck connections that talks in great detail about chains:

http://www.ppp.purdue.edu/Pubs/PPP-92.pdf
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Old 06-09-2012, 01:27 PM   #25
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This was fascinating to me. I read the whole thing and then made 100 on the test. I almost answered C for number 4 but selected the correct answer D instead... I read a couple of the questions twice to be sure I understood it.
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Old 06-09-2012, 05:20 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grakin View Post
Purdue Extension has a good book on trailer-to-truck connections that talks in great detail about chains:

http://www.ppp.purdue.edu/Pubs/PPP-92.pdf
Lot of scary pictures in there. But a good resource. Thanks.
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Old 06-09-2012, 07:25 PM   #27
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Lot of scary pictures in there. But a good resource. Thanks.
Your right...scary indeed. It made me go out in the rain to look at my camper! I found a bolt a washer we need to replace. We have never locked our coupler with a latch pin. Are we suppose to or does the tongue weight make it unnecessary?
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2019 FORD 150.
2007 Trailmanor 3124KS...still got it.
Robin 1,000 Lb Weight Distributing Hitch ...still got it.

We replaced the tires on the TM July 2017 I will update when I have time to get the specs

What's new...we went to all LED lighting and love them.

New 3/25/16 two new horizontal propane tanks.
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Old 06-09-2012, 07:41 PM   #28
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I hitched up the TrailManor yesterday to head off to Niagara Falls for the long, long 30 minute trip. Knowing this discussion was going on I looked at my safety cables at the crossed method and realized there would be no difference whatsoever if they were crossed or not. The tongue would slip through either way and that could be one of the disadvantages of these newer cable chains.

My 2011 unit has the trailer side hooked up nicely to the 5" frame section for the cables and not at all like what the photo showed connected to the tongue jack.

But if I make a Trooper happier by crossing the cables, I'll do it.

The cost is the same.
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Old 06-09-2012, 07:44 PM   #29
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Your right...scary indeed. It made me go out in the rain to look at my camper! I found a bolt a washer we need to replace. We have never locked our coupler with a latch pin. Are we suppose to or does the tongue weight make it unnecessary?
My latch pin is a simple bolt with double nuts to lock it. A cheap safety feature I think. The tongue weight can disappear when you go over a bump.

I liked the discussion on the length of the safety chains versus the break-away cable. Should the break-away cable be shorter or longer than the safety chains? Right now I'm thinking it should be longer but ... I'm sort of sitting on the fence. Not sure how mine is rigged.

Also learned how to tell Grade 5 and 8 bolts apart, and was glad to see that my cables use Grade 5. But still need to fix that one bad attachment.

All in all a very interesting read.
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Old 06-09-2012, 08:02 PM   #30
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Brulaz.........I promise...I had never heard of doing that to the TM coupler. It never occurred to me to even look where this might be accomplished. (Ha...I am still not sure where it goes.) When we purchased the camper this was not covered in the hook up demo nor was it suggested.
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2019 FORD 150.
2007 Trailmanor 3124KS...still got it.
Robin 1,000 Lb Weight Distributing Hitch ...still got it.

We replaced the tires on the TM July 2017 I will update when I have time to get the specs

What's new...we went to all LED lighting and love them.

New 3/25/16 two new horizontal propane tanks.
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