Drain Tube and Toliet Flange are lifted

[Stephene1219]

The biggest problem is the newer TM's (mine is 2020 922KS) have a slant piece at the bottom of the cabinet that limits the width you have to work with to only 16" between the tube and the cabinet

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by Stephene1219

The biggest problem is the newer TM's (mine is 2020 922KS) have a slant piece at the bottom of the cabinet that limits the width you have to work with to only 16" between the tube and the cabinet

It really doesn't. I pulled out the piece of wood that was in there and replaced it with a 1/4" thick piece of aluminum (I happened to have laying around) cut to fit. It's glassed into the construction. That's to protect the new tank from a tire blow out. If you look at the picture above of the finished (white gelcoat) interior of the tank, you'll see that it takes up very little interior space. Maybe 1/2 qt.

[Stephene1219]

It seems TM has used a 2-piece closet flange. You have the piece that connect to the waste line which is what my pictures shows. Then they have added the outer ring flange. This is what your picture shows. Here is my problem.

The outer ring flange was broken as my picture shows and I cannot find any repair flange that will work. TM says that got these special from a local RV dealer, but they do not sell them. The flange has a small lip on the inside that snaps around the drainpipe section. So, when you bolt the flange down it holds everything in place.

So, I am thinking to just replace the entire closet flange with a 0ne piece flange. In looking under the TM at the waste pipe, there is not much room to make a cut and still have room to add a coupling (either hard or soft). I would have to leave 3" above the 90 degree elbow,

Has anyone done this?

Since I not an expert in fiberglass, the SeaLand is no longer available, and cassette toilets are just not feasible based on the various state regulation's. For example CA does not all them in any state park. As of now CA, CO and ME only allow the "contents must be emptied into a designated sewage treatment/dump station facility." I will just reinstall the Tedford unless someone has a better idea.

[Kidkraz]

I'm sorry, but I have camped at many CA state and US national parks and have never been told, I can't use my cassette toilet or that I'm not allowed into the park. Nor have I ever been asked what type of toilet I have in my camper. I know using the camp ground requires being respectful. When leaving, I either use the proper dump station or I've taken my cassette home and dumped in my home toilet.

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by Stephene1219

It seems TM has used a 2-piece closet flange. You have the piece that connect to the waste line which is what my pictures shows. Then they have added the outer ring flange. This is what your picture shows. Here is my problem.

The outer ring flange was broken as my picture shows and I cannot find any repair flange that will work. TM says that got these special from a local RV dealer, but they do not sell them. The flange has a small lip on the inside that snaps around the drainpipe section. So, when you bolt the flange down it holds everything in place.

So, I am thinking to just replace the entire closet flange with a 0ne piece flange. In looking under the TM at the waste pipe, there is not much room to make a cut and still have room to add a coupling (either hard or soft). I would have to leave 3" above the 90 degree elbow,

Has anyone done this?

Since I not an expert in fiberglass, the SeaLand is no longer available, and cassette toilets are just not feasible based on the various state regulation's. For example CA does not all them in any state park. As of now CA, CO and ME only allow the "contents must be emptied into a designated sewage treatment/dump station facility." I will just reinstall the Tedford unless someone has a better idea.

Reinstall your broken floor flange (just use bigger screws). All you have to do is spread the broken flange enough to get it back around the drain pipe. When you screw the flange back onto the floor, be sure that the broken part is closed, then screw it down. Once the grey water tank pipe is cut, the toilet drain pipe (which is flared at the top) will simply slide back down into the floor flange seat and stop (the pipe won't go past the flange because of the flared end of the pipe). If you buy a new flange, you will still have to cut it, open it up around the drain pipe and screw it down to the floor. Either that, or you will have to cut the drain pipe, screw down the flange, lower the top end of the cut pipe down through the flange and recouple the 2 halves of the cut and shortened pipe. Even after all that, you will still have to cut the grey water drain pipe to get the flange to seat squarely in the flange. Trust me..... that would be 10x as much work then just cutting the grey water drain pipe and letting the toilet drain pipe fall squarely into place in the flange..

Cutting the grey water tank drain pipe is the only way to resolve your problem. There is NO need to cut the toilet drain pipe.

[Stephene1219]

I have already cut the pipe, and everything is flat on the floor.

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by Stephene1219

I have already cut the pipe, and everything is flat on the floor.

Be sure to use a new toilet flange seal on the toilet outlet. Reinstall the toilet. Then put your coupling on the grey water drain pipe....... done.