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02-24-2020, 01:05 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 14
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Lithium battery???
I have a 2010 TrailMini 18L. We need to replace the lead batteries and I'd prefer to get something where they can still be charged/topped off during storage with the shore power cable so that I don't have to pull the trailer out/open it to refill the water in the battery (read: maintenance free). I considered the sealed/gel type battery, but has anyone used a lithium RV battery? Pros/cons? What brand do you have?
Also, I noticed the lithiums are quite pricey, but if they perform better/last longer then it might be worth the cost?
Thanks!
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02-25-2020, 09:59 AM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,105
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Just as another thought, you might consider a battery maintainer. Note that this is not the same as a "trickle charger", which is something to be avoided. You would need to disconnect the TM battery from the TM connections, and connect it to the maintainer's small cable. The maintainer can be mounted inside or outside the TM, as is most convenient for your situation. I don't think it is rain-proof, though.
The most important thing is that you do not leave the TM's built-in charger powered up and connected to the TM battery. Over a relatively long period of time, this does not work despite the advertising.
Among battery maintainers, I've had good luck with a Battery Tenda (aka Battery Tender). I bought the smallest one - 0.75 amp - and it is quite adequate provided you start with a fully charged battery. If you can't start with a fully charged battery, you might step up to the 1.5 amp version, but nothing higher is necessary. The 1.5 amp version will slowly bring your battery to full charge, and hold it there.
There are number of other battery tenders on the market that also produce good results. They have been discussed at some length here on the Forum. Use the search tool to find the discussions.
Bill
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02-26-2020, 09:55 AM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 14
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Bill,
When you say the TM's built-in charger, are you talking about that T-handle knob that disconnects power from the battery and the outlets/appliances inside? When we recharge the batteries, we engage the T-handle so the batteries are "connected", and then plug it into shore power only for a day or two before unplugging it. We never leave it just plugged in otherwise and we disengage the T-handle to prevent phantom power drainage from the batteries. This is how the dealer told us to do it, but I just need a maintenance free battery.
Thanks!
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02-26-2020, 11:01 AM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,105
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I'm not familiar with the T-handle - apparently Minis have a somewhat different configuration. My bottom-line take-away is that for long-term storage (more than a week, maybe) do not leave the battery connected to anything in the trailer. Not the charger, not the load panel - nothing. From your description, the T-handle sounds like it accomplishes this, but I just don't know. To be sure about it, I would simply pull the cable off the battery's positive post. Once the battery is completely disconnected, you can attach the maintainer cables directly to the battery posts (assuming a maintainer is your choice of approaches).
Bill
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02-26-2020, 03:29 PM
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#5
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 1,520
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Here's an interesting option. I'm not sure if anyone here has tried it, although I remember there was a discussion about the LiFePO4 batteries, which these are.
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02-26-2020, 04:14 PM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,105
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Now that is really interesting, Larry. I never thought of it or heard of it. If you can get actual medical-device batteries, they should be good for the purpose, and not beat to death.
Please straighten me out on one point. Each battery in the video had two black cables hanging out, and the guy just plugged them together. At first I thought these were the battery power cables, and he was connecting the batteries in series. But as the video went on, it became apparent that they are not power cables. Are they control cables that synchronize the Battery Management Systems built into each battery? oes every ium battery have one of these?
Bill
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02-26-2020, 04:15 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 14
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It is very interesting. I work in a hospital and will see if the engineering guys can hook me up with a couple . They look to be about the same size as the two 6V flooded lead acid ones the dealer sold me a few years ago.
and I just looked up their website: https://lithiumwerks.com/valence-bat...es/rt-modules/
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09-17-2022, 08:48 AM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2022
Posts: 11
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Not sure if this is relevant, but I've been overhauling my Mini, moving to Lithium. (200ah Lifepo4). It is definitely a different beast, with pro's and cons. You won't be able to use the existing Powermaster system, as it doesn't handle the charge voltage and cutoffs correctly. (You'll damage the battery.) In my case I rewired from the ground up, (as part of a bigger system that integrates Solar and a 50A feed from the car's alternator.) You'll also need to make some small adjustments to be on Lithium's slightly higher voltage as well, like a 12v converter to your propane detector, which maxes as 12.5v. Though other things like the fridge actually run better on the higher voltage. Happy to elaborate as needed.
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10-10-2022, 03:05 PM
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#9
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New Member
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btheo_TrailMini
Not sure if this is relevant, but I've been overhauling my Mini, moving to Lithium. (200ah Lifepo4). It is definitely a different beast, with pro's and cons. You won't be able to use the existing Powermaster system, as it doesn't handle the charge voltage and cutoffs correctly. (You'll damage the battery.) In my case I rewired from the ground up, (as part of a bigger system that integrates Solar and a 50A feed from the car's alternator.) You'll also need to make some small adjustments to be on Lithium's slightly higher voltage as well, like a 12v converter to your propane detector, which maxes as 12.5v. Though other things like the fridge actually run better on the higher voltage. Happy to elaborate as needed.
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Btheo - yes, please elaborate! I purchased a 200 AHr LiPO4 battery for my 2720 thinking that I could simply drop it in and switch the jumper on my newer, lithium-capable converter. Then I decided to add solar and an inverter. Been researching for a while now, and may have a case of ‘analysis paralysis’.
My understanding is that a fully-charged lead acid produces about 12.9V, LiPO4 tops out about 13.8. You’re saying that the propane detector is sensitive about its supplied voltage? How did you address this? (Not sure what you mean by “12v converter”) Any other components you found sensitive?
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10-10-2022, 04:41 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2022
Posts: 11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotdam
Btheo - yes, please elaborate! I purchased a 200 AHr LiPO4 battery for my 2720 thinking that I could simply drop it in and switch the jumper on my newer, lithium-capable converter. Then I decided to add solar and an inverter. Been researching for a while now, and may have a case of ‘analysis paralysis’.
My understanding is that a fully-charged lead acid produces about 12.9V, LiPO4 tops out about 13.8. You’re saying that the propane detector is sensitive about its supplied voltage? How did you address this? (Not sure what you mean by “12v converter”) Any other components you found sensitive?
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Sorry I meant a DC 12v stabilizer…
For example:
DC-DC Stabilizer, DROK 9V-36V to 12V
Boost Buck Converter 5A 60W Waterproof Auto Step Up Down Voltage Regulator 12V Volt Transformer for Car Audio Solar Power System LCD Television LED Display Screen [URL deleted].
On mine, the propane detector was the only intolerant component. The fridge is actually much happier with the higher voltage.
I actually suspect that PowerMax now makes a Li version of the main system. Though if you’re also wiring for solar, there is likely more complexity in your diagram than the powermax will do.
In my case I’m using a Renogy 50 dual to handle all DC power sources, a Victron smart 30A IP22 to handle AC to DC shore charging,, a renogy 2000w pure sine inverter for AC on battery, and a cheap manual rotary switch to handle shore power to battery power changeover.
Hope that helps.
B
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