Over sink cabinet

OneMoBear · 07-13-2015, 02:30 PM

I won't say I'm DONE with the over the sink cabinet but we're going to take a time out with it. Gene, for the most part, sets up and breaks down the outside and the inside is mine (I'll let you know when you and the dogs are invited in ;-) I have hated and cussed that cabinet more than everything else combined for six years now and I'm ready to try a new game plan. Ours weighs 17 pounds when empty just for the record. Add in the complications of the seam and contents

So, it is in the basement. Next time out we are trying this in its place:
http://www.amazon.com/Seville-Classi.../dp/B00C78TRG6

I will secure the two baskets together and use them vertically as shelves rather than baskets and add another hanger like the originals on the wall over the sink. We already have some of the hooks that work with them and I'll attach them to to baskets. I'll post pics if anyone is interested after I have my hands on them.

**commodor47** · 07-13-2015, 05:52 PM

We use the same setup and take down procedure. I do the outside and Jeri takes care of the inside - except for the over-the-sink cabinet. That is part of my job. As you elude to, the cabinet can be somewhat heavy and a bit awkward, especially if you happen to be vertically challenged like Jeri.

Dick

07-13-2015, 06:03 PM

My wife an I recently became owners of a "new" to us 2005 3124KS. The trailer is in generally decent shape. Some rusting from being exposed to Florida. Those areas I am working on - such as replacing the latches and the some exterior hardware with stainless steel. But the one perplexing me the most has been the over-the-sink cabinet. We are avoiding adding too much additional weight to it, but, in making several attempts to hanging it, I've marred the wall around the wall plates. I am looking for suggestions as to how I could repair the damage I've done.

As a thought to putting the cabinet up, I recently saw a video on YouTube from dealer and it showed him putting the cabinet up prior to the bathroom. This may help by allowing one to visually look at where the hooks are being placed.

OneMoBear · 07-13-2015, 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by commodor47

We use the same setup and take down procedure. I do the outside and Jeri takes care of the inside - except for the over-the-sink cabinet. That is part of my job. As you elude to, the cabinet can be somewhat heavy and a bit awkward, especially if you happen to be vertically challenged like Jeri.

Dick

Well dang it Dick, we are both vertically challenged and I'm ready to think outside the box :-)

**Kidkraz** · 07-13-2015, 09:22 PM

I didn't get the extra cabinets for my TM and have added some extra shelves and small set of drawers near the amore. It's still a work in progress, but it fills my needs for now. I added a metal paper towel holder to the shelf on the sink counter with a bungee cord and it holds up nicely. When I stow that shelf, I pop the four bottom legs off and swing the towel holder to the inside and lay the thing in front of the table on the floor. The wire shelf and drawers go in the bathroom. I use a porta-potty which goes in the truck bed for the trip home.

**Bill** · 07-14-2015, 06:04 AM

An easy way to handle the problem is to put the cabinet in place, then put a vertical mark on the wall near the top left side of the cabinet. It doesn't have to be an ugly mark. A skinny pencil line an inch long, or a small piece of masking tape, will do just fine. When the cabinet is in place, you won't be able to see it, since it is hidden between the cabinet and the bathroom wall.

Next time you need to put the cabinet in place, just lift it to ceiling level, move it left-right until the edge of the cabinet lines up with the mark, and lower it. Works every time.

Bill

Lindaloo58 · 07-14-2015, 11:08 AM

Great idea, Bill. I'm definitely going to try marking a line. I've been putting mainly light items in that cabinet (paper plates, cups, napkins, etc.). Also, I've got 2 small plastic bins with some insulated plastic coffee cups that I can pull out of the cabinet before I lift it to hang it on the wall. If I have anything else in there, I remove it to make it as light as possible before I hang it up. We also have the over the stove cabinet, which is generally, our medicine cabinet. That cabinet, even with the medications, is easy to hang on the wall.

**ShrimpBurrito** · 07-14-2015, 12:28 PM

I would think TM could design/make a cabinet for that spot that is far more lightweight, using some sort of foam laminate -- that's what the counters are made of. Someone else could too......

Dave

MT Camper · 07-14-2015, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill

An easy way to handle the problem is to put the cabinet in place, then put a vertical mark on the wall near the top left side of the cabinet. It doesn't have to be an ugly mark. A skinny pencil line an inch long, or a small piece of masking tape, will do just fine. When the cabinet is in place, you won't be able to see it, since it is hidden between the cabinet and the bathroom wall.

Next time you need to put the cabinet in place, just lift it to ceiling level, move it left-right until the edge of the cabinet lines up with the mark, and lower it. Works every time.

Bill

Bill that is what I figured out works for me. With the cabinet hung and pushed tight against the bath wall I drew a pencil line from top to almost the bottom on the right side (I am right handed) and now I hang it so it just barely covers the pencil line by holding up against the roof and letting it slide down onto the hinges and moves right just enough to cover the pencil line. Never see the pencil when cabinet is hung and don't care when the cabinet is down. I am short and need the pencil line to get it hung. Just sharing what works for me.