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Old 10-03-2010, 12:11 AM   #1
Goodyear Travels
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Default Steps in Rejetting Yamaha EF2400if Generator

Rejetting this generator is very simple and it should take less than 15 minutes if your tools are set out.
My share is as a DIY'er and I am not a mechanic by trade. This is what has worked for me in rejetting but I cannot take responsibilty for others' health, safety, or equipment.
The steps seem involved but they should be really easy to follow. The first time you change jets it will take about 45 minutes. One or two more changes and you'll be doing it more quickly than I can.

The 4k-7k ft jet's Yamaha Part # is 1HX-1423E-32 and the +7k ft jet's # is 1HX-1423E-30. I am ususally switching between the sea level and the +7k ft jet because of where we like to camp.


1. Work in a well-ventilated area and have a fire extinguisher close at hand.
2. Shut off the fuel to the engine (next to the choke) on the generator's front cover.
3. Remove the (2) phillips screws on the bottom of the back panel. There are (2) plastic tabs on the top of the cover and (2) additional clips on the side that help secure the cover.
4. When the cover is removed you'll see the engine (OHV), then the carb, and then the black plastic box on the right that houses the air filter. (see photo 1)
5. The float bowl is on the bottom of the carb. Open the springed screw at the bottom of the aluminum bowl -- to drain the contents of the bowl through the clear tubing into a small container that is resistant to gasoline for safe disposal. There is still a small of amount of gas in the bowl -- so keep a rag or paper towel handy for later. (see photo 2)
6. The (2) black screws that secure the black, air box cover are difficult to access. I have used either a right angled, phillips screw driver or a small ratchet with phillips-head bit.
7. Remove the cover, then the foam air filter, and then the metal air flow plate. The plate is held in place by pressure from the foam air filter only. Notice that the upper right corner of the air flow plate is angled and this is the position it must be returned to. (see photo 3)
8. There are (2) 10 mm nuts that secure a metal flange and (1) 10 mm bolt (in the bottom right corner) that need to be removed in order to remove the air box. There is also a rubber breather tube that I pull out of the back of the air box and leave hanging.
9. Slide the air box off the (2) studs and remove the 12 mm nut on the bottom of the float bowl with a box or open wrench. You can slide the carb on the studs to get more room for your wrench but leave the carb resting on its studs. Some more gas will probably spill out when you remove the 12 mm nut on the bottom of the bowl and so you'll probably need your rag here.
10. With the carb slid to the right and the 12 mm nut removed -- wiggle the bowl until it comes loose from the carb housing.
11. You're almost DONE -- gently lift up the plastic float with one finger to expose the side-mounted, brass jet. (see photo 4).
12. Again with the carb slid to the right on its studs -- use a small screwdriver to remove the brass jet. The first time I removed my sea level jet -- it was very firmly in place maybe because of fuel deposits. But it came loose with some gentle, encouraging taps.
13. Be very patient and very careful in aligning your replacement jet. The threads are very fine and very soft so use only light finger pressure to get it started, and I use only a 2-finger grip on the screw driver to tighten. If you over-tighten you'll strip & ruin the jet. (see photo 5)

Replace everything in reverse order. You can use this time as an opportunity to clean your foam filter or maybe just squeeze out the residue fuel along its bottom edge. You can also clean or replace your spark plug.

Take your generator to a safe, open area with the back cover off for testing. (CAUTION: do not test high altitude jets at sea level under an electrical load -- the engine will be running too hard and too lean. Your sea level test of high altitude jets should be brief as possible). Turn the fuel on -- check for leaks before starting. Mine starts on the first pull nearly every time and I'll run it for a few minutes to check for leaks before replacing the back cover.

Your generator will run longer and stronger on a tank of fuel if you'll take the time to rejet. I believe that most shops charge $30-$40 for this job.

Good Luck, Eric
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Old 10-03-2010, 03:23 PM   #2
mtnguy
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Great post. I will probably refer to this thread when we start our longer trips out west.
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