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  #1  
Old 06-06-2019, 11:11 PM
Larryjb Larryjb is online now
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Default Powermover AC5

To those who have the Powermover AC5, are there any instructions for it?

I just picked one up today. It easily moves my trailer up my 12% slope (it's designed to handle up to 15%). Now, I was being cautious so I moved it up about 4-5 inches and tried to stop. It immediately rolled quickly back onto the chock block.

Has anyone had any experience with the Powermover AC5 on an incline? Is there a locking system that will engage if I go farther than 3-4 inches? I don't want to move it 3 feet only to have it roll back down 3 feet, hop my chock block, and end up across the street!
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2002 Tahoe
2008 4.6 Explorer
2001 2720SD

Various TM images that you may or may not find elsewhere: http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/album.php?u=11700
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  #2  
Old 06-07-2019, 03:34 PM
bheisser bheisser is offline
 
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In this thread someone talks about tying. In trailer brakes
https://www.trailmanorowners.com/for...ead.php?t=8391
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  #3  
Old 06-07-2019, 03:56 PM
Larryjb Larryjb is online now
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Thanks,

As always seems to be the case, I find the answer just after I post. I had been searching beforehand for a couple of hours, posted my question, then found the answer myself, right here on TMforums.

However, I left it in case some one else had some more experience using the brakes. It is already wired with two switches, so I presume the other one is for the brake. This leads me to wonder if a DPDT switch might be useful here. Wire P1 from power to the Powermover motor and P2 to the brake. Except, T1-Powermover would be open, T2-Powermover would be connected to the motor. T1-brake circuit would be connected to the brake, T2-brake would be open. This way, as soon as you turn the Powermover "off", the brake automatically turns on.

Or...

I can just darn well learn to coordinate my thumbs!
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Larry

2002 Tahoe
2008 4.6 Explorer
2001 2720SD

Various TM images that you may or may not find elsewhere: http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/album.php?u=11700
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  #4  
Old 06-07-2019, 09:14 PM
Larryjb Larryjb is online now
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Okay, I figured out the wiring. I do have power going to the trailer brakes circuit at the Bargman, but the brakes do not seem to be engaging. Now to troubleshoot the TM end.

And yes, I did connect the leads to my truck battery.
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2002 Tahoe
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2001 2720SD

Various TM images that you may or may not find elsewhere: http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/album.php?u=11700
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  #5  
Old 06-08-2019, 06:56 AM
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Bill Bill is offline
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Quote:
Now to troubleshoot the TM end.
Larry -

You need a clamp-on DC ammeter, to see if current is flowing to the magnets - both magnets. In my TM, I went behind the refrigerator, and separated the wire going to the brakes into two wires, one going to each brake. That way I can measure each brake individually, without having to crawl under the trailer. Quite a relief for my not-so-spry body! A clamp-on ammeter, of course, is part of a clamp-on multimeter, one of the handiest things you'll ever buy. For TM or automotive work, make sure it has both AC and DC capability.

Clamp-on AC ammeters are common as dirt, but a clamp-on DC ammeter is another thing. In the Trail Manor Technical Reference Library, I discussed how to choose a clamp-on DC meter, and described one that I have, and like a lot. In fact, I have two of them, one at each end of the country.

https://www.trailmanorowners.com/for...ad.php?t=18923

Bill
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  #6  
Old 06-08-2019, 08:29 PM
Larryjb Larryjb is online now
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Bill,
Yes, I remember reading that info thread. I didn't think I'd need it this soon.

Based on the reviews, even for the one you referenced, I felt it was too risky a buy from Amazon. Plus, something with the ability to measure mV to diagnose parasitic drains would be useful. So, I got this locally:
https://m.kmstools.com/klein-tools-4...p-meter-169424

If anything goes wrong, I can take it back far more easily then I could with an Amazon order.

I haven't used it on the trailer yet. Before I do, I'm going to make sure the brakes are set up right and lube the wheel bearings. They may just need setting up.
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2002 Tahoe
2008 4.6 Explorer
2001 2720SD

Various TM images that you may or may not find elsewhere: http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/album.php?u=11700

Last edited by Larryjb; 06-09-2019 at 09:16 AM.
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  #7  
Old 06-09-2019, 05:27 AM
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That's a nice meter, Larry. And of course Klein Tools is one of the top-name brands in the world of electrical tools and test gear. I hope it helps you get the Power Mover and brakes issue resolved.

Bill
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  #8  
Old 06-09-2019, 11:48 AM
Larryjb Larryjb is online now
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It is really nice. I'm not sure I trust the absolute measurements in the mA range when looking for parasitic drain, but I figure if I can get a "baseline" measurement, I can refer to that for future diagnosis.
The CL330 A on Amazon does not do DC current, but this one does. The temperature probe will be useful too, and seems reasonably accurate.
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2002 Tahoe
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Various TM images that you may or may not find elsewhere: http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/album.php?u=11700
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  #9  
Old 06-09-2019, 04:27 PM
Larryjb Larryjb is online now
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I tried my new clamp meter today. If you're prepared to get underneath (keeps you limber... I'm sure I'll say differently 20 years from now!) you can check each individual brake. Just find the two wires going into the backing plate and test each wire. You can check the current going through each wire too, which should detect any shorts at the magnet. If the one wire shows greater current than the other, you have stray current going through the trailer body as it's shorting through the magnet. I'm not sure I trust these clamp meters to detect mA accurately, so I wouldn't pay attention to 100 mA loss or so.

The advantage to testing each side separately is that you could, in theory, have 6 amps going to the brakes. But one side could be shorting, the other side could have resistance at a bad connection. I think this would be a rare instance, though.

Sorry, a longish post to say I've got very close to 3A to each individual brake, just over 6A overall. The brakes probably just need adjusting, and I believe that because I didn't adjust them over the length of our trip from Vancouver BC to LA and back. (They were functioning the entire trip because I could feel them pull the truck back when I tested it with the brake controller).
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2002 Tahoe
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2001 2720SD

Various TM images that you may or may not find elsewhere: http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/album.php?u=11700
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  #10  
Old 06-29-2019, 07:28 PM
Larryjb Larryjb is online now
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I set up the brakes on the TM then tried the Powermover again. The brakes weren't strong enough to hold. I'm thinking two things:
1) The drums have some surface rust from sitting in the winter so that it's being set up against an uneven rust surface. Even though there is power being put to the brakes, it may still roll with the brakes applied until it gets to a different portion of the drum. On a 12% grade leading to a public road, I'm not going to take the chance that it will stop.

2) I was using the battery from my truck with the engine off. It's possible that the brakes may need a full 13.5 V (charging voltage) to activate fully and provide enough current.

I believe scenario 1 is more likely.

My solution for today:
I set up the brakes about 3 more notches tighter than set up. At this point, the wheel could not be turned by hand, but the Powermover was able to move the trailer dragging the brakes. In fact, those 3 extra notches actually tightened the brakes enough I didn't need to power the brakes. I had to use the reverse mode to bring the trailer down the slope.

I liked this solution so much that I'm tempted to always tighten the brakes 2 notches up before using the Powermover on the slope. I may still need the power to the brakes to hold it on the slope, but I really liked the fact that it didn't roll by itself down the slope. It felt much safer. I still engaged the power brake for extra safety. It's not hard to jack up each side and tighten the brake, move the trailer, then set the brake up properly.

Anyway, I've got the TM open now and next weekend I'll probably do the torsion bars.
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