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Old 04-28-2021, 01:05 PM   #21
Larryjb
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Dave,

This is the first I've heard of anyone drilling anchor bolt holes in the driveway. I have wondered about doing it myself in the past because my driveway is on a slope as well. Now that you have done it, I'll consider it more seriously myself.
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Old 04-28-2021, 01:20 PM   #22
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Yep, I did it as soon as we got our TM, about 14 years ago. Works great. You can see the 1 bolt in this picture that goes through the 6x6. The 2 bolts going through the wheel chocks next to the 15" tires just hold 2 pieces of lumber together to raise the profile of the chocks (along with glue).

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Old 04-28-2021, 01:22 PM   #23
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I'm very impressed.
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Old 04-28-2021, 01:29 PM   #24
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Thanks! It's been saving our neighbors across the street from certain doom for years! I figure either one of the homemade chocks OR the 6x6 would be enough to hold it, but BOTH of them together should be pretty fail safe.

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Old 04-29-2021, 06:16 AM   #25
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She made it into the garage!

Took about 6 hours. Had to repair the divider, remove trim, trim the garage door supports & remove the door opener, but she's in. Once the tires were on the flat garage floor, we unhitched from the tow vehicle, put the wheel on the tongue jack, and pushed it in by hand. I took some pictures of the clearance on top & sides, but phone goofed up and lost 'em. Had about 1" everywhere. Not much!

I may look into those driveway rails like Dave mentioned. It took about 5 minutes to get the trailer lined up perfectly with the garage. (Which was a little "frustrating and annoying").

Awning and porch lights had to be removed. I have some slim LED's on order to replace the porch lights, and I'll need to search around here (again) for mounting the awning without screws (so it can be removed easily).

Also of course need to fabricate new removable garage door trim.

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See, the camper is saving you money already! Maybe now you should consider adding a boat?
Yep, now I have room on the side yard for a boat. (Just sold my Compac 16 about a month ago).
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Old 04-29-2021, 07:14 AM   #26
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Congratulations!

Where there's a will, there's a way

Yes, I went nose-in when I was storing it, so the tracks made sense -- the center track was far more valuable than the wheels, but they all helped. Backing in tracks would need to be removable as others have mentioned.

My awning solution was a total hack -- once it was removed, we just cleaned up all the caulk, put it back on the rails, and then carefully installed to sliding bolt-locks (like on a gate) to hold it in place. Worked ok...until the awning was deployed and a microcell storm blew through without warning, ripped it off the roof. Probably saved me from flipping the TM entirely -- the bolts being the "weak link" in the upward direction meant they simply sheared off. Ended up replacing the awning with a roof-mount and getting small aircraft anchors to tie the awning down when deployed. It's now survived some major storms without any issue. It's still imperfect, but it works.

You may want to figure out something a little different from what I originally did -- it was always an annoyance to get the awning perfectly aligned to get the bolts home. I envisioned some kind of hinges that could be bolted to the existing angle brackets, and then the hinges would attach to the awning and allow it to flip 180 degrees over to the roof.
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Old 04-29-2021, 08:39 AM   #27
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I don't mean to contradict your carpenter, because I am not one. But I still think there is a possibility of narrowing the center area between the garage doors. As Rickst said, and your carpenter apparently confirmed, the center area contains a load-bearing structure, and the header beams over the garage door openings rest on that structure. My thought would be to put in a narrower load-bearing structure, such as a lally column, either fixed or screw-adjustable length. Now that you have narrowed the support structure, the header beams won't reach the center of the lally column, of course, so you would put a thick steel plate on top of the column, extending in both directions from the column. The plate extends out far enough for the header beams to rest on it. The reach on each side is not long - maybe 4-6 inches? - so a properly-chosen plate won't bend over that short distance. Bolts in appropriate places will hold the whole thing together so nothing moves.

After supporting the header beams on the plate, you can strip out the original support structure, which is probably wood, rebuild the trim and fascia, and install new doors..

Just my uneducated thought.

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Old 04-29-2021, 09:25 AM   #28
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Nicely done, Joe! Now that you know it’s possible, it’s just a matter of how easy you want to make it. And regardless of what you decide to do, even if that’s nothing, I would think you’d get better at the whole process with practice.

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Old 04-29-2021, 09:29 AM   #29
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And of course, you always have the option of just skipping the awning altogether. If you mostly park in the shade like we do, you may find you just don’t use it much, and even if you do find you need it, you could always take an EZ Up of some sort. Might be easier.

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Old 04-29-2021, 09:45 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill View Post
I don't mean to contradict your carpenter, because I am not one. But I still think there is a possibility of narrowing the center area between the garage doors. As Rickst said, and your carpenter apparently confirmed, the center area contains a load-bearing structure, and the header beams over the garage door openings rest on that structure. My thought would be to put in a narrower load-bearing structure, such as a lally column, either fixed or screw-adjustable length. Now that you have narrowed the support structure, the header beams won't reach the center of the lally column, of course, so you need to put a strong thick steel plate on top of the column, extending in both directions from the column. The plate extends out far enough for the header beams to rest on. The reach on each side is not long - maybe 4-6 inches? - so a properly-chosen plate won't bend over that short distance. Bolts in appropriate places will hold the whole thing together so nothing moves.

Now you can strip out the original support structure, which is probably wooden, rebuild the trim and fascia, and install new doors..

Just my uneducated thought.

Bill
Thanks for the suggestion.

We did talk of adding a structural beam across both doors, which would allow a large single door. However, there's not enough clearance between the top of the doors and the attic joists. This would also make it a 17' door, which would have to be special ordered and pricey (and 10 weeks delivery time). Instead, we would've went with a standard 16' door and added 6" of trim to both outsides. Don't know how that would've looked, or if it would've got approved by the HOA.

Either way, the repair's complete and she's in the garage, so I'm planning on going camping instead of working on that garage any more. If pulling it in and out becomes a nuisance, or if I scrape the trailer (did I just jinx myself?!?) then I may revisit adding wider doors.
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