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Old 01-24-2021, 06:40 PM   #1
OwenTrail
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Default Gas only water heater ?

I have a old model 1996 2518 I bought 3 years ago and the hot water heater has never worked. I can't get the pilot to light. Won't allow any gas to get to the pilot light. I don't believe there is a electric option with this old of model? Could it be as simple as a bad anode rod? The stove and furnance work a-okay.
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Old 01-24-2021, 08:24 PM   #2
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We have a 1997 and it is gas only. You have to go outside, put your lighter flame over the lighting area, and hold down the red button for a long time in order to warm it up enough to light it. Haven't lit it up in a while due to Covid 19 so details escape me.
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Old 01-24-2021, 08:26 PM   #3
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Default Here is a picture of our water heater when we light it.

https://www.trailmanorowners.com/for...php?albumid=41
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Old 01-26-2021, 07:40 AM   #4
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I was under the impression that there were companies that made a combo sacrificial anode/heating element to convert the older gas-only models to electric. It would take some wiring, but I think someone here may have done the conversion in the past? Hopefully they'll chime in.
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Old 01-26-2021, 12:36 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OwenTrail View Post
I have a old model 1996 2518 I bought 3 years ago and the hot water heater has never worked. I can't get the pilot to light. Won't allow any gas to get to the pilot light. I don't believe there is a electric option with this old of model? Could it be as simple as a bad anode rod? The stove and furnance work a-okay.
To get to your original question, I don't think there is any way that the anode rod could prevent the gas from flowing, or the burner from lighting. As the name suggests, the anode rod is a simple metal rod, a few inches long, entirely enclosed inside the water heater tank. It has no function related to heating in any way. On the other hand, the gas apparatus has a number of parts, all of which are outside the tank.

The first thing to check is whether the gas valves are on. As I recall, there is a gas valve within the water heater itself. If you can provide the manufacturer name and the model number of your appliance, it will help a lot.

You say that something "won't allow any gas to get to the pilot light." How do you know that no gas is getting there? Are you using the push-and-hold-to-light button that B_and_D described? You have to hold the button down for many seconds, and apply a flame (I recommend a long-snout butane barbecue lighter) for that entire time. Assuming the valves are on, the pilot will eventually light. If it doesn't, you are right - there is no gas getting to the pilot. If it does light, then making it stay on when you release the button is another question. Please let us know what you are finding.

Assuming you can get a flame at the pilot, more than likely the burner mechanism is just rusty-dusty-dirty-spider-webby. Your task will be to disassemble it and clean it up. You'll need to use a soft brush to remove dust and dirt, a wire brush to remove rust, and perhaps other tools to clean things. This is where the diagrams and troubleshooting procedures in the manual will be really helpful. You may find that some metal parts have rusted beyond repair, and must be replaced. Fortunately nothing is really expensive.

If you get back to us with some of this information and results, we will try to continue helping the situation. If the pilot light will light but won't stay on, or if if it stays on but the main burner won't light, we have experts here who can help. In particular, look for posts on the subject from Commodor47. But he needs to know where to start.

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Old 01-26-2021, 07:34 PM   #6
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Here’s that conversion kit The Pair mentioned...

https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Group.../dp/B002SSIBSA
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Old 01-26-2021, 09:15 PM   #7
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Shane -

Your link goes to a device called a Hott Rod. I had heard of it, but never really looked at it. Interesting device, and I think a nice inexpensive solution to the OP's situation, assuming he can't get the gas burner going.

I think there are a couple things that should be considered before buying one.

o The Hott-Rod has an adjustable thermostat, which may be a nice thing. The gas/electric Suburbans have a fixed thermostat.

o The gas+electric Suburban 6-gallon water heaters use an electric element rated at 1440 watts of heating power. The Hott-Rod is rated at 400 watts. (One reference says 450.) This means it will take almost four times as long to heat the water. You have to decide for yourself if that is acceptable.

o Since it installs into the opening that was used for the anode rod, you lose the anode rod function.

o My big question is where you mount the thermostat. It is a metal-and-plastic block that MUST be mounted tightly against the metal surface of the tank. You have to cut away the insulation to do that. Apparently it can be done, since the Hott-Rod advertsing says it is compatible with Suburban units - but it is pretty crowded in there. Be sure you have some idea what you are getting into.

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Old 01-27-2021, 06:07 AM   #8
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Bill-

Meyers RV (local camper dealer superstore chain) has had one of these on clearance forever, I’ve looked at it a few times. I believe this replaces the drain valve. Anode rod stays right where it is.
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Old 01-27-2021, 08:27 AM   #9
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Owen -

Thanks everybody. The helpful responses on this forum always amaze me. All the information sure does help. I'll try your suggestions and update when I can. Too cold right now to pull the trailer out and open it up. Hopefully soon. It sure would be nice to get the water heater going before this coming camping season.
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Old 01-27-2021, 09:31 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane826 View Post
Bill-

Meyers RV (local camper dealer superstore chain) has had one of these on clearance forever, I’ve looked at it a few times. I believe this replaces the drain valve. Anode rod stays right where it is.
I wasn't aware that Suburbans have a drain valve. B_and_D, does your 1997 unit have a drain valve? The instructions for the Suburban SW6DE series, which TM has used at least since 2000, say it can be drained by removing the anode rod.

Another reason why we need to know the make and model of Owen's unit!

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