Switch To Shut Off The Powered Radio Antenna

[Philip]

Hello Folks,

Just a small point that may be of interest to hardcore dry campers like myself. I have a 2008 2720 TM and the red LED light which indicates that the radio powered antenna is on does not shut off when you shut off the radio. I found the wire which powers this powered antenna and put a switch in this line to shut the powered antenna off when I am not using the radio. It saves me approx. 0.1 amps. Doesn't sound like much but over 10 days of dry camping it is 24 amp-hrs.

The wire to this powered antenna(on my TM) is in the bundle of wires you can access from the bottom vent by the fridg. from outside the TM. It is a purple 12ga wire sliced into a blue 12ga power wire. Look at your wiring diagram for the TM.

Not a BIG deal but every bit helps when dry camping.

Take care,

Phil

[ThePair]

I wired mine into the "powered antenna" lead on the radio, so it turns on when the radio is on, and turns off when the radio is off.

Even though I always have hookups, I may put in a switch to kill all power to the radio, to end that parasite.

Originally Posted by ThePair

I wired mine into the "powered antenna" lead on the radio, so it turns on when the radio is on, and turns off when the radio is off.

Even though I always have hookups, I may put in a switch to kill all power to the radio, to end that parasite.

I leave the fuse out that goes to the radio and antenna. Second from the bottom on the left hand side for mine. I store it in one of the empty slots below it.

We rarely use the radio.

[ThePair]

If you have an older model TM that's clearly the easiest option. Newer models have the radio sharing a fuse with the refrigerator, so a switch is needed. We rarely use the radio, either, which is why I'm looking into the switch option.

[ShrimpBurrito]

Originally Posted by ThePair

If you have an older model TM that's clearly the easiest option. Newer models have the radio sharing a fuse with the refrigerator, so a switch is needed. We rarely use the radio, either, which is why I'm looking into the switch option.

If the radio and fridge run on separate wires to the DC distribution panel, separating them onto different circuits would be easy to do. And if they're not, I would seriously consider running some heavy gauge wire (I ran #8) from the fridge to panel to reduce the voltage drop when running the fridge on DC. That will either reduce the current, or increase the heat of the fridge heater, which should make the fridge colder. Mine had the latter effect, but either effects are good.

Dave

[scrubjaysnest]

Originally Posted by ShrimpBurrito

If the radio and fridge run on separate wires to the DC distribution panel, separating them onto different circuits would be easy to do. And if they're not, I would seriously consider running some heavy gauge wire (I ran #8) from the fridge to panel to reduce the voltage drop when running the fridge on DC. That will either reduce the current, or increase the heat of the fridge heater, which should make the fridge colder. Mine had the latter effect, but either effects are good.

Dave

Can't say on older TM's but the radio power on our '11 is spliced to the refer power with a scotchlock in the harness just below the upper refer vent. I plan on pulling a new lead for the radio through a switch to the converter fuse panel. Plenty of room to add circuits there. I have all ready moved the power for the antenna to the radio power ant lead.