Stabilizer Jacks

I've notices some folks suggested using cordless drills for the corner stabilizer jacks.  Sounds like a great idea, but can someone describe the fitting they use to insert into the jack?

Our trailer has Liftco jacks, and use a right angle pin passed through a hole in the collar on the end of the lift screw.

Thanks!

I use a 3/8" hex (allen) wrench in my 18V cordless drill.
On the previous message board, it was suggested that you round the corners so that it won't damage the holes in the collars on the jack screws.
You just need to insert the long side of the hex wrench into the drill, the short leg goes into the collar and you are on your way.
Hope this helps,
Brian

I did something a little different.    Since a knee injury makes it hard to get down to the scissor jacks, I bought three feet of 5/8 steel rod and used a file to deeply score the rod (almost halfway through) about 1.5 inches from the end.  I then bent the rod 90 degrees, essentially making it look like a giant allen wrench. I could then raise and lower the jacks using my cordless drill while remaining standing.      

[RickNewcomb]

Camping World sells a Heavy Duty Socket Jenie (BAL type) Catalog Item # 19341. It costs $19.99 which is much more than a cost of a 3/8" allen wrench. I noticed that the Socket Jenie is gentler on the hole of the jack than the square edges of the allen wrench.

You can checkout the Socket Jenie on Camping World's webpage at:

http://www.campingworld.com/browse/s...m?skunum=19341

thanks to all. i just went out and brought a allen wrench set-up to try this weekend. but i really like the campworld set-up and will order.

thanks.

p.s. hope no one had any family or friends involved in the terrible incident in new york and washington d.c.

if someone did, our family offers it's prayers.

can someone tell me to get the siccors jacks to turn easier? We put wd40 on them hoping it would give some but they are still very hard to use. when we set up and let the jacks down, as soon as they touch the ground, it is almost impossible to move them. even if we put blocks under them so they don't have to go down so far, they still are impossible to turn. any advise here? thanks BETTY

Betty:

For a spray lube, I use Tri-Flo. It is teflon (spelling?) based, and works really well. Just be sure to shake it up first. Spray the hinges on your jacks, the threads on the screws, everything that moves.

If you want to try some and can't find it, I get mine at ACE Hardware.

Hope that helps      


Mack

I use a product called "Sea-Doo Lube" or "Bombardier Lube."  It works great against salt corrosion and in wet environments.

Has a bit of an odor that clears in about a day.  It bothers my wife but I don't mind it.  But then I like the smell of racing fuel and smoking tires and such.

Betty,

My TM is also fitted with Liftco [glow=red,2,300]stabilizer[/glow] jacks. I also use WD40 with good results. One thing that caught my attention was your statement "soon as they touch the ground, it is almost impossible to move them." Early on, I tried to use these jacks as leveling devices and was not happy with their performance. However, once I decided to buy some leveling blocks and use the jacks only as stabilizers they work just fine. I'm only bringing this to your attention as a followup to my experience, as you may or may not be trying to level your trailer with the jacks.

Betty,

I agree with George about using the stabilizer jacks to level the camper.  The jacks are capable of lifting the camper; but when I tried to level with them, the camper frame got a bit of a twist and the door was very hard to open and close.  I got a set of Lynx levelers to level side to side using the wheels and level front to back with the tongue jack.  This seems to work much better.