Scotchlok connectors in the hardware baggie with your new brake assembly

**Deb Mac** · 06-15-2023, 09:21 AM

Just to save anyone from having to google (found an old thread from '04 I think, but the image link was broken) I thought I would just stick a new mention in here as an FYI. Maybe there's someone else that didn't know what they were.

I am about to install my new brakes on the TM. And in the hardware baggie there are these 2 little ??? Had to do a little googling and found a mention on another site of "new IDC's that come with your new Lippert brake assembly". What?? Continued Googling and found them. Insulation displacement connectors. Gel-filled - keeps the water out.

Any opinions on these? Anyone used them in their brake install? Not a lot of wire surface contact, but since these are really low current circuits, might not be a huge problem. And also curious how secure they are? What would it take to pull a wire out? Wondering if the wire nuts (that are there now and haven't failed at all) maybe with some dielectric grease for moisture protection, might be more secure. Mine have been on there for 15 years and things still look good. I'm tempted to go with, if it ain't broke, don't fix it...

**Bill** · 06-15-2023, 11:21 AM

I've used those for non-stressed connectors, and I suppose if they were supplied with the brakes, they would be OK. Zip-tie them to the back face of the axle, rather than letting them flop in the open air.

Personal opinion - I prefer the blue wire nuts that come with a gel fill and a rubber membrane over the open end. I have more faith in wires that are twisted together, rather than held in a clamp of some kind. Not everyone agrees with me.

Bill

**Deb Mac** · 06-15-2023, 11:27 AM

That is what I have seen others say. That or heat shrink butt-connectors. But for me, working on my back with a heat gun on a 300W portable power pack, I don't know if I would have confidence in the seal on my heat shrink connectors. I will go to homedepot and pick up a pack of the ones you have there. Worth it to me. Plus easier to disconnect if I have to without cutting wire.

**ShrimpBurrito** · 06-15-2023, 05:03 PM

I think the "ultimate" connection in this setting is probably with solder, covered by adhesive lined shrink tubing. For such tubing, I wouldn't get anything other than something made either by 3M or Ancor, the latter of which is a marine-oriented brand.

I just don't like the idea of wire nuts there. In a house which isn't flying through the air at 70mph and subjected to continuous earthquake-like forces and hurricane-like water as happens in a trailer, I just think they've fine. But not for trailer brakes.

I've used solder once, and then when I went to replace them, I decided to take an easier route and use crimp butt connectors, crimped with a size-matched crimper, with adhesive-lined Ancor-branded shrink tubing. They're definitely more expensive than wire nuts, but you only need 4 of them, and so it's really not that much money. So far, so good.

Dave

Wavery · 06-16-2023, 09:41 PM

Agree 100% Dave.

Deb,
You don't have to use an electric heat gun. They make small butane driven heat guns that work great as long as you don't melt the insulation off of the wire.

**Deb Mac** · 06-16-2023, 10:42 PM

My little 300 watt heat gun does a decent job. I’ve got adhesive lined heat shrink butt connectors at the trailer. I’ll give those a try before I look at the little butane models. No need to buy another tool that I will use for one job. I have acquired so many bits n bobs like that.
Either way, I have to work on my back under the trailer, so if I can get a good connection with the butt connectors, I’ll try that route. I’ve temporarily used regular wire nuts just to test everything before I remounted the tires. Everything is good. I’ll switch to a permanent splice - butt connectors or gel filled wire nuts - before I take it out on the road

Wavery · 06-17-2023, 10:05 AM

The key to getting a healthy connection is cutting the wire back until you see good, shiny, copper. If there is any black, it's "best" to keep cutting. Even if you have to replace the entire wire. This is especially true for the A/C wiring. I doubt that you will have that issue, I just thought that I'd mention it.