Torsion bar adjustment

[Ramblin' Rec]

Two questions:
My 2019/2020 2720QS has no washers on the torsion bars. Not one. So I'm wondering whether TM might have stopped using them?

Also, the adjustment screw for the front shell front curbside lift is maxxed out, and the front shell still takes two people to lift. It doesn't rise off of the frame pads when unlatched. Do I need a new torsion bar? and how hard is that to change out?

Thanks!

[Shane826]

I don’t have my 2007/21 3326 out of storage yet, so I can’t speak to the washers. I can say with all new bars and everything properly adjusted I can lift the front and rear shells with one hand and very little effor. Sounds like somethings up with your torsion bars. If only one is maxed out, maybe the shell is binding going up? Those bolts need to be adjusted in left/right pairs. Also look at the rear bars for the front shell, are they maxed out too? I’ve attached a screen shot of the post on TM Fans that maps out which bolt adjusts the torsion bar for which lift arm. It’s kinda confusing just looking at it on the TM.

The torsion bars used to be lifetime warranty, maybe for the original owner only? Might be worth contacting the TM factory or PPL to see what they say. But I think you said its pretty hammered, so who knows.

[Bill]

Washers on the torsion bar ends are not strictly necessary, but they are a good idea. They prevent wear and possible snagging of the stainless steel hose clamps that are placed on the bar ends. Why not just buy a bunch of big washers and slip them into place? Takes less time to do than to worry about.

As for the front adjusters on the front shell being maxed out? Yes. It is true on my 2020, and is annoying as heck. Clearly the next size torsion bars are needed, and I don't know why they weren't originally installed. I don't know if the factory or a dealer would replace them as a warranty item or not - I haven't pursued it. Although you can theoretically change out a torsion bar yourself, and some of our members have done it, I wouldn't attempt it. Too many ways to do it wrong and break something, and too many ways to get hurt.

I don't expect that the front of the front shell would pop up very far when you release the latches. In the videos, and in each of my 3 TMs, the pop up happens at the rear of the front shell. You may have some adjustment left there, and if so it will help with the overall opening effort.

The opposite is true for the rear shell - the front of the rear shell should pop up, but I expect little pop from the rear of the rear shell.

If you make any progress with a new bar, let us know.

Bill

[Ramblin' Rec]

The front shell doesn't seem to bind as it goes up, but it does wobble or sway side-to-side in a kind of scary manner. And sounds like a dying elephant. Should it sway like that? The rear shell is easy to lift and doesn't sway, but of course it's held in line by the front shell.

[Ramblin' Rec]

Thanks, Bill, we do get 7-8 inches of pop at the rear of the front shell, and front of the rear shell. I guess for now it'll just take two to open the front.

[Bill]

I wish I had a better idea, but I don't. The difficult thing about the front shell is that you can't really lift it from the middle - you have to lift it form the side until you get it up a ways. Someone (who?) needs to invent an initial-lifter-bar-thingy that will get it up the first 18". I've thought about doing it, but never followed up.

Yes, the front shell can sway until you get the aluminum latch tubes popped up onto the pegs. It shouldn't be scary, but in the wind it can be tricky to get the shell lined up so you can raise the tubes. I have no idea what the elephant noise could be. If you figure it out, let me know.

Bill

[mickmanor]

My 2720 is fairly new to me as of last year.
The torsion bars were working, but I thought that they should have
slightly more "springiness" to them. That word is the mystery word,
as I am no expert with torsion bars, and I use it only as an indicator.

The TM was formerly stored in the closed position, and I thought that
maybe, right, just maybe, storing it upright for a few months might make
a difference in the "springiness" of the torsion bars.

Ok, the few months of being stored upright are over, and after raising it
and lowering it a few times in the last two weeks, the torsion bars do
have more "springiness" in them. The problem is that there is no way of
measuring "springiness", as it is a feeling. The raising and lowering effort
is easier, and feels more "springy". Yes, had to say it again.

So, based on my purely unscientific experiment, I can recommend leaving
the TM upright to let the torsion bars "revive" themselves. Right, another
mystery word.

It works the way it works, and it is what it is.

[MrGallegos]

Originally Posted by Bill

Washers on the torsion bar ends are not strictly necessary, but they are a good idea. They prevent wear and possible snagging of the stainless steel hose clamps that are placed on the bar ends. Why not just buy a bunch of big washers and slip them into place? Takes less time to do than to worry about.



Bill

Are there any precautions when removing and replacing the hose clamps? Such as any chance of the bars ends moving.

[Bill]

With the shells raised, there is virtually no tension on the bars. If you are paranoid (like I am), you might want to wrap a loop of wire around the stub and the bracket, just to ensure that the stub can't back out. But I think you will find that the hose clamp is under no sideways (removal) force. And if it is, you really need a washer.

Bill

[MrGallegos]

Originally Posted by Bill

With the shells raised, there is virtually no tension on the bars. If you are paranoid (like I am), you might want to wrap a loop of wire around the stub and the bracket, just to ensure that the stub can't back out. But I think you will find that the hose clamp is under no sideways (removal) force. And if it is, you really need a washer.

Bill

Bill

Thanks, I will then give it a try.