Clamshell Sag/Floor Damage

We have a 1999 2619 new to us and I've noticed that the shells sag at the ends. Does anyone know if this be adjusted? How? Also the floor coming into the trailer is soft. I believe there was water damage from either the wheel well under the stove or by the a/c runoff (still seems to be leaking a bit). If I rip up the vinyl floor covering will I be able to replace the floor boards? What is under there?

Thanks for your input.

[Cateye]

My new 2003 was shipped from the factory with a "sagging" roof. After much heated debate with the factory, It was returned and the entire shell replaced. There is no way to repair this type of failure that I know of.

Sounds to me like you have some major problems. But nothing you can't do youself if you are the do-it-self type. Do a search for everything "Happytrails" has posted from three years to one year ago. He redid his whole trailer, has detailed how to and photos in a few of his post he list a link to go to everything he had to do.

I don't know if we're talking about the same type of "sagging roof" the two shells are not perfectly horizontal causing the door to have an uneven gap. I would think that there would be an adjustment of some sort to correct this.

I've been all over Happytrails' website but I am still unable to determine this adjustment or what I'll find if I lift the vinyl flooring. I can tell by the metal patchwork on the bottom of the trailer that someone was 'in there', I just don't believe that it was fixed correctly (hence the soft floor.)

I'd like to fix it properly, I just want to know what I'm up against prior to tearing it apart. Otherwise this trailer is in excellent condition.

[mjlaupp]

[quote author=jnjcampbell link=board=22;threadid=2093;start=msg14643#msg1464 3 date=1089225419]
I don't know if we're talking about the same type of "sagging roof" the two shells are not perfectly horizontal causing the door to have an uneven gap. I would think that there would be an adjustment of some sort to correct this.

I've been all over Happytrails' website but I am still unable to determine this adjustment or what I'll find if I lift the vinyl flooring. I can tell by the metal patchwork on the bottom of the trailer that someone was 'in there', I just don't believe that it was fixed correctly (hence the soft floor.)

I'd like to fix it properly, I just want to know what I'm up against prior to tearing it apart. Otherwise this trailer is in excellent condition.
[/quote]

The following is from the TrailManor website construction page:
http://www.trailmanor.com/Products/Construction.htm

Our 3" floors feature a special laminated construction that is stronger, more durable, lighter, and better insulated than other trailer floors made from particle board or plywood. That helps keep the weight of the whole trailer low for easy towing, yet gives you a floor you can count on. And our insulation means you stay more comfortable year-round, and use less energy to do it.

The floor is a three inch thick foam sandwich with a thin layer of plywood on the top, aluminum on the bottom and a wood frame to hold it all together. (see attached picture)

MJL

Good reply, Mike.

I'm not sure I understand the shell problem it could be as simple as a support arm adjustment or having to redo the whole shell.

As for the floor it would be my guess that a replacement would be required. That will be costly and have to be done at the factory. To give you a bases as to cost to replace four shell side panels, both roofs and the off doorside lower panel the factory wanted $16+K. To fix the floor they would have to take everything off, put in the new floor then replace everything. Very costly.

If it were mine I would consider just over laying the floor with 1/2" or thicker plywood. Do good detail work and you should like the results and at a fraction of the cost to replace.

I think you are right about the floor the plywood should do the trick. It will raise the floor a half inch I hope that doesn't impact closing the trailer. On the other side of things I have noticed 4 bolts at the base of all four support arms. I tried to loosen them and lift the end then retighten, but to no avail. I don't see a noticeable improvement. Does anyone know if this is a standard adjustment that is part of regular maintenance? Will my local dealer be capable?

Thanks for your input so far....

Goodday;

RE; Floor Damage

We have similar spongeness in our TM mainly between oven & sink. Our unit has square wheelwells & curbside was damaged previous to our purchase. I think water has gotten in under the vynal, although I haven't removed it yet.

Our floor has aluminum skin on top. When I replaced our carpet I had to rent a professional staple gun from Home Depot. My home Arrow unit would not penetrate. I think there is plywood between the foam & aluminum, on the top layer of the floor. You can determine for sure by looking in the battery cutout area, or where the refrigerator fan is mounted.

RE: Shell Sagging

The lift arms on the shells are adjustable using the 4 bolts. These are set initially by the factory. They basically clamp around the torsion bar. I'm not sure how much adjustment is available. You might start by measuring distance between the bottom edge of the arm & the top edge of the torsion bar to see if there is a noticeable difference between the four arms.

I suspect these are not easy to re-adjust after assembly, because when closed they are under tension, & when open you have the weight of the shell pushing down. When the factory installs the shells they hold them in position so there is no weight pushing down.

If I was to try:

I would stabalize TM, support shell near the arm I was adjusting with hydraulic jack & loosen bolts

To raise shell I would raise jack slightly & then hit the end of the arm with a block of hardwood

To lower shell I would lower jack slightly & then hit torsion arm with a block of hardwood.

Then retighten bolts.

Rather than adjust the bolts, I would first try to adjust the space beneath the torsion bar & the hole it goes thru the frame. These holes are fairly large. I would determine which arm needs to be raised, & shim underneath the torsion bar where it enters the frame, thus raising it. You could try this rather inexpensively by placing a jack under the arm and raise it.

PS: I have over 4000 staples left over. These are Duo-Fast Staples, 9/16 inch -5418-D, Galvanized. If anyone is going to replace their carpet I would be happy to send you several hundred. I found out that when you rent these Duo-Fast Staple guns you can't buy just a few staples. They come in boxes of 5000.

Have a great day.

Dan

On Reflection;

To raise shell I would raise jack slightly & then hit down on the torsion arm with a block of hardwood

To lower shell I would lower jack slightly & then hit up on the torsion arm with a block of hardwood.

Dan

The dealer should be able to do the shell adjustment if he is a TM dealer. As to doing that your self remember that as you move the shell up or down that when closed you are also moving it front to back and maybe mis-aligning hold down stirups or corner latches at the least and in cases of greater movement might be affecting closing over the box.