New self adjusting brakes and lift kit

I got around to installing a six inch lift kit and also installed the self adjusting brakes. I had to pull the drums off and clean out all of the grease from the stupid "EZ Lube" regreaser...the EZ Lube was great at lubricating the internals of the drum as about 14 OZ of grease squirted into the drums when I lubed up the bearings the first time. After using two tubes of grease on each drum I thought that was enough grease then I noticed that the brakes immediately stopped working...guess where all of the grease went (see picture).

I bought 2 new drums (with bearing races pressed in and new bearings and seals complete). The E Trailer price delivered was only $287.00 so I could not resist. Removing and installing the brake backing plates was very easy and the brake shoes were pre-installed on the backing plate. All I needed to unbolt the old backing plates from the axel ends, make sure I installed the new backing plate with the RH on the right hand side of the trailer and pack the bearings and drive on the seals BTW...to install the seals first apply a little bit of grease on the inside of the surface where the seals slide into the drums and also lube up the seal lips, then use a wood block and a hammer and drive the seals into the drum until they are flush with the machined end (make sure the spring and lip are facing the bearings). The backing plate installed with five nuts as there are five studs that are pressed into the axel housing.

Since the heavy drums and tires were already off I figured it would be a good time to install the 6 inch lift kit. My axels were tack welded in place so I had to use a cutoff wheel to cut off the weld (took about 5 minutes total time for both sides). The axels are also bolted on with 5/8 inch thick fine thread bolts (thirty pitch). The hex heads are 15/16 that is a odd sized hex head but at least I had one.

TM uses a 5 inch by 2 inch steel tube frame and they cut out an oval window (hole) above the axel location to access the bolts. They also cut out two square-ish oval hole into the bottom of each frame rail (they did a crappy job by the way of making these oval holes) so that the axel can be moved forward or aft to allow for alignment of the axel into the frame. Since a two inch wide box tube is not that wide on the inside sliding a 15/16 socket on a 1/2 inch drive ratchet was kind of tight inside the box end so if you have a 3/8 inch ratchet with a 15/16 socket you might have better access.

If you do add a lift kit to your trailer make sure to scribe a vertical line down the frame (using a square) to mark the front and back location of the axel perches (I forgot to do this step) with respect to the frame rails because since the axel has oval holes and the TM frame also has oval holes...the axel can be mounted on crooked (left/right and forward/aft). Since I forgot this step, I had to triangulate using a tape measure to reinstall the axel in the correct position because I forgot to mark the axel location on the frame.

The axel perches are 10 7/8 inches long so it is best to buy two box tubes that are 2 X 6 inch with 1/4 inch thick wall tubes and have the metal supplier cut the box tubes for you. I paid a Dallas company 38 dollars for the two pieces plus the hardware I think I have about $50.00 total investment.

The axel bolt holes on my TM axel were 9 inches on center so I drilled two holes on the top and two holes on the bottom of my box tubes and purchased 4 grade 8 bolts and lock nuts and washers to install the box tube between the axel and the frame. The TM brake wires were plenty long enough to accodomidate the 6 inch lift. I used the crimp on terminal ends that have the heat shrink plastic covers so the install is now water tight (TM used cheap-o and unsafe wire nuts to wire up the brakes). The wires going to the brake magnets are not polarized so either wire on the brake backing plate crimped to either wire on the TM will work good.

Attached is a picture of the lift kit installed and the old grease covered brakes and the new self adjusting brakes installed onto the lift kit.

I attached the Dexter Axel installation guide for those who are interested. I hope this helps!!!

Nice work on the install, I did not know the lift kits were 6 inches high, last I read was 2 inches. Guess your never going to bottom out anywhere. Does the lift change your handling at all?

Thanks
Bob

The lift "kit" TM sells is a 2 X 2 box tube.

I bought two pieces of 2 X6 box steel tube and made my own.

Therr is no noticeable change in handling. If anyone is towing their TM. without a load leveling hitch they should consider getting one. I did not think I needed one (and most likely don't) however the ride with one of these devices is so smooth and wonderful!!! I bought mine at Harbor Freight and am so glad I bought it.

Thanks for the info I'm looking at the lift mod this winter and really like the 6 inch idea.

Bob

[Bill]

Camper One -

Six inches is a big lift. Do you find that you would like (need) to add another step on the folding entryway steps? That first step up off the ground must be a killer.

Bill

it really is not too bad

Regarding the self adjusting trailer brakes, it did take a while for the brakes to "burnish". When I installed them I scuffed up the drum surface with some 80 grit sand paper and drove backward multiple times while applying the brakes and then tested them by applying the manual slider on my brake controller. I could feel the brakes applying however the linings were not gripping the drum surface very well. They are certainly applying and I can feel the trailer slowing but then almost immediately it seems that the brakes fade as they heat up.

On by drive from Dallas to California I noticed the brakes were getting more responsive with each additional stop so I am more satisfied now than when I first installed them.

I cannot get the tires to lock up and skid with full brake power and max adjustment of the inertia (pendulum) so it seems that the brake lining is not large enough for the weight of the TM or that the linings still have not burnished properly.

The way to properly adjust the electric brake controller is to run on a paved road and then place the inertia pendulum to max application and then also adjust the power reostat to the point where the tires skid using the manual application lever. Then back off the power reostat slightly to the point where the tires no longer skid when the brakes are applied based on the conditions of the road (wet/dry/contaminated). Then when the power adjustment is made so that the tires no longer skid then the inertia (pendulum) is adjusted so that there is minor trailer braking action during gentle stops.

I cannot get my brakes to skid. Can anyone else get their trailer brakes to skid.

Originally Posted by Camper One

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I cannot get my brakes to skid. Can anyone else get their trailer brakes to skid.

Think it depends upon the controller. Never got a skid with my previous Prodigy 2.

But with Ford's built-in controller, set at 10/10, the brakes will lock when hit hard at high speed. I've dialed it down to 8/10 since.

Also, don't think this Ford controller is inertial, rather directly based on electrical signals from the brakes (and ABS) system.

[scrubjaysnest]

Originally Posted by Camper One

snip
I cannot get my brakes to skid. Can anyone else get their trailer brakes to skid.

I can smoke the TM tires with the Prodigy set for boost 1. This is not good for the tires as they will flat spot. I just try to avoid that much braking.