Width of Trailmanor - with awning

[ThePair]

Originally Posted by fischnet52

Marc, I just went out and measured our new 2008 2720 - have a friend interested like you who asked for the same info, so now I have it! Outside of front shell, moulding- moulding at front is 7'-7', per Trailmanor's info. At back of front shell on street side is a light that adds 2" (+ maybe 1/8"). On the curb side, the awning adds 3-1/2".

So if you don't have at least 8'-6" width, I think you'd be pushing your luck trying to back that in without one or more "oops" like I usually have when cutting things too closely!

On your awning question ... I have used an ADCO cover for our Jayco p/u for about 8 years that has worked very well, out next to the garage, snow, rain, etc. I've always kept moisture absorbing kits in it over winter and have never had any issues with moisture, mold, freeze/thaw or anything. I plan to get a new cover from Camping World to do the same with the TM. Hope that helps a bit?

Fred

Helps a lot, thanks for your (and everyone else's!) comments.

I just remeasured my garage opening. Brick-to-brick (if I pulled off all the seals and trim!) is 8 ft 1.5 inch...clearly, not going to be wide enough.

So, option B is most likely--at a friend's. I'll just need to ask her sometime before I purchase Renting a space just adds cost, which I'm sure we'd all like to avoid, right?

Thanks, all!

Marc

[ShrimpBurrito]

I'd buy first, then ask.

Dave

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by ThePair

Helps a lot, thanks for your (and everyone else's!) comments.

I just remeasured my garage opening. Brick-to-brick (if I pulled off all the seals and trim!) is 8 ft 1.5 inch...clearly, not going to be wide enough.

So, option B is most likely--at a friend's. I'll just need to ask her sometime before I purchase Renting a space just adds cost, which I'm sure we'd all like to avoid, right?

Thanks, all!

Marc

Mark,

I don't know if you were being facetious about "Brick" but if you really do have a brick opening, is there a chance of removing a couple of bricks so the awning can pass through??

Another option is don't buy the awning.

Our awning broke after two years. So for the next two eyars we have been using a free standing awning. We like it better because we can move it anywhere we want, like over the picnic table.

If you park on the 16' opening you can angle it back into the corner a bit and park a car on the other half.

[ShrimpBurrito]

Here in Southern California, space is at a major premium. While I don't have to back our TM into a garage, I do have to get it as close as possible to a concrete wall. This last time, I got within 1/2". Now I didn't have anything on the other side to worry about, and it's not particularly relaxing backing it in, but I've got it down pretty good now, and it's not hard. First, renew your vows with your wife, then just take your time and you'll get the hang of it.

If it doesn't work out, you've got options like those mentioned above (remove awning, use power pusher, install hitch on the front of your car, store it elsewhere, etc.)

Check out the attached pic. That was earlier this week.

Dave

[ThePair]

Originally Posted by harveyrv

Mark,

I don't know if you were being facetious about "Brick" but if you really do have a brick opening, is there a chance of removing a couple of bricks so the awning can pass through??

No, it's really brick :P and, no, I don't think DW would approve of me removing bricks...plus, right behind the brick is the track for the garage door, which I'd likely have to replace as well, as the clearance between the tracks is about the same 8 ft 1-2 in. as the brick-to-brick opening.

Originally Posted by PopBeavers

Another option is don't buy the awning.

Our awning broke after two years. So for the next two eyars we have been using a free standing awning. We like it better because we can move it anywhere we want, like over the picnic table.

I thought about that, but someone above points out that the awning only effectively adds 1 inch to the overall width, since there are lights that stick out as well. I'm not sure the extra inch is enough, but I can be convinced... I have been eyeing a stand-alone awning/room set-up which goes next to the trailer--have read that you can't leave the awning open when you leave, etc, for fear of wind damage, and many suggest a separate structure, so the awning loss may not be the biggest deal...but if it's not going to make the difference, it's not worth the loss, imo.

Too bad the awning can't be modified to flip-up, somehow. Likewise, the lights that stick out...but I don't know what they look like, so I can't even imagine a solution like that...

Originally Posted by larsdennert

If you park on the 16' opening you can angle it back into the corner a bit and park a car on the other half.

I thought about that, but even if I get it all the way against the wall, the car that needs to be parked in the other half is a minivan, and the amount of clearance for the doors, while possible, would be quite tight, and probably enough of an annoyance to make this position very undesirable, especially when trying to load the twins into the van. At least, if my tape-measure measurements and space estimates are to be believed.

If I could fit it in width-wise, nose-in might even be a better fit, which would mean some kind of winch inside the garage to slowly guide the trailer in. Nose-out would need a power dolly. Never an easy situation, it seems

Marc

[rtcassel]

Have you considered these?
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...5063_200365063

I've been backing a 2619 through a single garage door just slightly wider than the TM itself for 4 years. The only mishap I've had cost the trim strip on the garage door and the decal on the awning when DW and a neighbor were helping me to push it in manually. Since that time I've been using a front hitch - I still need a spotter but haven't had any more mishaps. The front hitch facilitates tight turns so, as mentioned above, I can actually angle it in to avoid the awning and then swing it so that the TM is as close to the wall as possible. - camp2canoe

[ShrimpBurrito]

Tim's suggestion of those dollies reminded me of my thought process before I bought my TM. I was planning on backing my TM into position onto dollies like those and then push it sideways into an area I couldn't back into, but ended up having more room than I thought.

One thing you could do to help facilitate the tight squeeze into your garage is to build a track system for dollies like those, or just the TM tires themselves. Maybe bolt some angle iron to the garage floor, for example, on the outside of where the tires are supposed to run. When you hit the driveway, where you presumably don't want something permanently installed, drill a few holes in the concrete where you would be screwing the track down, and just drop some pins (like large nails) to secure the track to the driveway. When you're done, just pull the track out. If you don't like the idea of putting holes in your driveway, bolt the sections of track on one side together with the sections of track on the other. That way all the track outside of the garage will become one piece, and all you have to do is line it up with the track inside the garage....and perhaps connect the two with a lap joint or metal plate or something....lots of possibilities here.

You could even make some a "gutter" for the tire out of some plywood. Once each of the TM tires is in the gutter, it won't go anywhere but in the straight line of the gutter. I think this would make for a stress-free pulling-out and backing-in process.

Dave