12volt Charging with Honda EU2000

Hello,
Does anyone know the type of male plug that is used with the Honda EU2000 generator for charging a 12 volt battery? I would ultimately like to find out if the plug alone can be purchased but I don't know what to ask for. It looks exactly like a standard 120 VAC male plug with two prongs, but one of the prongs is oriented at a right angle to the other, instead of parallel to each other.

Thanks for your help,
George

[Cateye]

The cables with the correct plug can be purchased as an accessory from your Honda dealership

Originally Posted by Cateye

The cables with the correct plug can be purchased as an accessory from your Honda dealership

Sorry I was not more explicit. I have a cable but would still like to know what the plug is called and if it is a part (the plug itself) that can be purchased from an independent vendor or if it is only used by Honda and specially made for their generators.

Thanks again,
George

[Bill]

George -

Not sure, but you may be describing a NEMA 2-20P, or possibly a NEMA 5-20P with the grounding pin removed. Take a look at
http://www.et-sales.com/Documents/St...ma%20Chart.htm
(NEMA is the National Electrical Manufacturer's Association, the standards group for all electrical stuff.) If so, you can buy it at any electrical supply house, and possibly at Home Depot etc.

Incidentally, I'm not sure that using the generator directly to charge the battery makes much sense. IIRC, the generator's DC (battery charging) output is pretty puny - only about 8 amps. But if you use the generator's AC output to power up the entire TM - including the converter - then the converter will make much more charge current available.

Bill

[MikeD]

Originally Posted by Bill

George -

Incidentally, I'm not sure that using the generator directly to charge the battery makes much sense. IIRC, the generator's DC (battery charging) output is pretty puny - only about 8 amps. But if you use the generator's AC output to power up the entire TM - including the converter - then the converter will make much more charge current available.

Bill

Bill,

I was recently in Yosemite for a week and had to use my Honda 1000i generator to boost my battery charge (my solar panels were partially shaded). My dual Trojan T-105's were down by about 45 A-H. When the solar panel did get light, the battery was charged at a rate of 9-12 Amps (depending upon shading conditions). When I connected the generator to A/C input of the trailer, my 7300 converter only charged the battery about 4-4.5 Amps. My solar charge controller is a three-stage MPPT charger. I believe that the 7300 is only a 2-stage charger. I conclude that the 7300 is not very good at quick charging the battery.

I'm wondering if a direct feed from the 12-volt output to the battery will result in a higher charging rate. We are heading back to Yosemite for another 5-days in November (weather permitting), and I will try out a direct connection at that time. I'll let you know what happens.

MikeD

p.s. --- btw, it's not a question of generator power. The 1000i was just idling, that is the 7300 converter was not putting a very large load on the generator. I have to assume that using a 2000i or 3000i would produce the same results.

[Bill]

Mike -

I can't question your observations. I am mystified by the low charge rate of the 7300 converter, especially since the solar panels are able to do more. My old TM had a 6300 series converter, which has a very limited charge rate. But the 7300 series was supposed to do better. I don't yet know if the new American Enterprises unit will do better, but I tend to doubt it, since the rep told me that the way it avoids overcharging the battery is to stop charging at 98%.

I do note that 45 A-H is not a very deep discharge, since the T-105s are rated 225 A-H. Perhaps that "fooled" the 7300. But still ...

I agree that the 7300 is a 2-stage charger - but the stage that is missing is the third (float or maintenance) stage. It should still have a substantial bulk-charge (first stage) and absorb (2nd stage) capability.

Bill

[MikeD]

Bill,

I was surprised - while 45 AH is not very much compared to the 225 AH full capacity, it is close to half of my usable capacity (50% discharge). My understanding of the first stage of charging (bulk) is that it supplies max current until the battery voltage reaches a pre-determined set-point, at which point it switches into the second stage (absorption). This then holds the battery at a constant voltage, and lets the current gradually decrease. When the current falls below another set-point, then the charger may switch to float.

My guess is that the set points in the 7300 are such that the charger went right into absorption. My solar charge controller has programmable voltage set points, and I have adjusted these to correspond to the recommendations given by Trojan (somewhat different than a regular wet battery - bulk voltage set-point at 14.8 v, and float volatge at 13.2 volts - see http://www.trojan-battery.com/Tech-Support/BatteryMaintenance/Charging.aspx). My solar charge controller was still in bulk mode.

I believe that the question with the 1000i is going to be --- "what is the output voltage from the DC output terminals". Since it is not regulated by a charge controller, I assume that this will determine the charging current and the danger of overcharging.

Mike

[Bill]

Good observations and explanation, Mike. I agree with everything you said.

Bill

[MikeD]

Bill,

Thanks for the confirmation. I hadn't thought it through before being challenged by your e-mail -- thanks.

My question then is -- "What's the most effective way, while boondocking (no electrical hookups), to recharge my batteries if my solar panels are not on-line long enough". It's not like the 7300 is doing anything wrong, but in this case it is mis-reading the battery state and being less aggressive than it could. My understanding is that a recharge rate (in Amps) of 5%-10% of battery capacity (225 AH) is great. In this case that works out to about 11 - 23 Amps per hour. This was a consideration in my panel selection, since with both panels illuminated I get 14-15 Amps/Hour recharge rate. I don't want to purchase a new charge controller to replace the 7300 (new one would have to have adjustable set-points). Too bad, I can't run the generator through my solar charge controller.

My goal is to re-charge my battery with the least amount of disturbance (to me and the neighborhood). To me, this means low noise and short duration. I'm already selecting sites that have good solar options. My next goal is to find the best way to charge when I have to use a generator. I will try to do a test this or next week to determine if connecting 12-volt outlet of the EU-1000i to my batteries gives me a quicker recharge rate. It's interesting - in the EU-1000i manual, you are instructed to turn off the ECO-Throttle and run the generator at full speed when using the DC outputs (noisier). It may turn out that your can minimize noise (but with longer time) or minimize time (but with greater time).

MikeD

p.s. -- The irony of this is that we had a good solar site. One panel was partially shaded and we only had about 4 hours of good sun, so we only replaced about 3/4 of our daily usage. I brought the generator as back-up, and only used it to get a sense of how it performed, since I now had the Xantrec meter installed. This proves that if you are a gadget nut, you can have a great camping vacation plus find something to feed your nutty obsession.

MikeD & all

I replaced the OEM converter with the PD9160 60 Amp unit. The "Charge Wizzard that goes with it permits me to override its settings and select the charge state. That is, I can force it into the high charge mode (or any of the 4 states) if I want to. I have not used that feature. It quick charges at 14.3V and that is not adjustable. So far we have dry camped without solar == In Az, we look for shady sites. I use a 750 watt Honda generator for 30 to 60 minutes in the morning to recharge and best I can tell, it works well. I am using the single OEM 12V battery. I hope to get the gadgets (Xantrex or Trimetric) so I will know my charge state this winter.

PS. Has anyone found replacement parts in the outside shower? My knob came off in my hand along with a 15 foot stream of water down at Rocky Point last week . The cup-shaped cap under the knob split and a ring of plastic came off the top. I found the other faucet to be broken in the same place. Good old JB-Weld saved the weekend, but the faucet drips and I don't find replacement parts. It appears the rubber seat inside is the culprit as the drips come out of the shower head.