Leveling the Trailmanor

**newtome3326k** · 03-18-2009, 07:56 PM

What is the best way to level the Trailmanor? We are new to this and would gladly appreciate the help. We have a 3326K and understand the importance of having the trailer level. We bought the trailer from someone who had only used it once..Thanks so much in advance for your help.

ThePair · 03-18-2009, 08:24 PM

I have read on these boards (and others) about what others do, and I'm sure they'll comment here, shortly

I have not yet taken my 2720SL out yet (still to be delivered in a few weeks) but I did call the TrailManor factory with this very same question.

The official word from the factory is that, at least on the models with corner leveling jacks, that you can just use those jacks to level the TM, and you don't have to worry about putting anything under the wheels, like blocks or Lynx or anything like that. You can, also, store the TM for the winter by using those corner jacks to lift the wheels off the ground entirely. They told me there is nothing wrong with doing this, and it won't harm the TM or the frame or anything else.

Like I said, I haven't even towed mine, yet, but for all those who are new to this, I thought I'd relay what the official factory stance is on this subject.

Now, I'm very interested to hear what other people do, because I still need to figure out what I'm going to do!

Marc

**B_and_D** · 03-18-2009, 09:44 PM

We don't have the scissor jacks, as our TM is older, but what we use is a magnetic 8" torpedo bubble level that rides along with us on the front of the battery tray, under the battery strap. It's amazing, it's been thousands of miles like that and is still there today.

We use leveling blocks under the wheels to level it side to side first. These sometimes aren't needed in paved RV parks, but in rustic parks they are a must. We back in, check the level on the tongue (the bubble level is magnetic, so we just put it on there straddling one of the tongue pieces, sideways), and then add a lego block or 2 to the low side, usually pull forward and then put the block down and back onto it again. After a while, you get to know how many it will take. It's not an exact science, but an inch or two or three makes a difference.

After that, we switch direction on the bubble level front to back and crank the tongue jack to where it needs to be.

We just use the jacks to keep the TM from moving around when we walk around inside and step in and out.

03-18-2009, 09:48 PM

We have had our 2005 TM 2720 since March 2005. I have gone through the following sequence:

1. My first attempt was leveling the fridge, but water from washing dishes ran towards the dinette seat, which I did not like.

2. My second attempt was to have the fridge off level slightly so that water on the counter would run towards the back of the counter and towards the sink, meaning street side rear corner low. I was happy with this until I tried frying an egg on the stove and it ran to the edge.

3. I level the stove top, just in case I want to fry an egg. This is my definition of level.

Regarding boards under the tires, I always put a plank or tow, or whatever is necessary, under the low tire to level side to side. I do not get it perfect. I am limited to the thickness of the 2x10s scrap lumber that I use. I like to chock both tires as tightly as possible to minimize wiggle, so I need a plank to use a pair of chocks. More on wiggle shortly. I use an eight inch torpedo level.

So with the TM in the location I want it and a plank or two under the low tire, I set a chock in front of each tire. Then I use the truck to pull the TM into the chocks as tightly as possible. Then I chock the back side of both TM tires. Then I put the truck in neutral and let gravity center the TM between the two pairs of chocks. It is not possible for the TM to rock forwards and backwards on the tires because the chocks are so tight that you can not remove the chocks without pulling the TM forward to take the load off the chock. This technique has really reduced a lot of motion in the TM when walking around in it.

Then I disconnect from the truck. I disconnect the hitch first, while the brake cable and safety cables are still in place. In case I get in a hurry and forget to chock the wheels before disconnecting, I find it helpful that the brakes and the safety cables will prevent a run away. How I learned this technique is a subject for another thread. Then I disconnect the safety cables and the brake cable and pull the truck forward a few feet to get it out of my way.

I then level front to rear using the tongue jack and the torpedo level.

With the TM pretty close to level I pop it open. If you haven't figured it out yet, the TM is easier to pop open when level.

Then I place a frying pan with a little water in it on the stove. I use the corner jacks to level the frying pan. I use a cordless drill with an allen wrench to lower the the jacks one at a time, starting with the lowest corner first. I have found that if I just set the jacks about as tight as I could turn the jack with my bare hand, that this is enough to get the TM to not wiggle when walking around. If I tighten the jacks too much, I get a slight sag in the frame and the door will not latch properly.

Just in case I still can not get the door to latch properly, I have another jack that I can place under the frame below the door to raise some sag out if necessary. Ever since I quit setting the corner jacks so darned tight I no longer need to use this extra jack.

It took me longer to type this than it does from me to perform my process, so don't get too intimidated by the length of what I wrote.

When I am done:

the stove is level enough to fry an egg.
when washing dishes, water on the counter over the fridge runs towards the sink instead of the seat.
the fridge is within spec.
the beds are plenty level.
there is essentially no rocking or wiggle motion when walking around in the trailer.

I always take the weight off of the tongue jack because that just seems like a good idea. Sometimes I swing the tongue around so I have a little extra room to park the truck in a short driveway. The bed of the truck is lower than the front bunks, so I can save about two feet of length that way if necessary.

**ShrimpBurrito** · 03-18-2009, 10:25 PM

Instead of using the "legos" under the wheels, I use a mil-spec folding shovel to dig a hole on the side that is too high. We usually camp on dirt areas, so this is usually possible. This is inherently more stable than the tire being up on legos, and the hole also acts as wheel chocks.

Dave

ThePair · 03-19-2009, 06:18 AM

Pop -

I've seen your description of your process before, and it's very likely what I'll be trying when I start this spring. Like you, I'd consider everything level if I can cook some eggs without them collecting on one side of the pan! All else should just fall into place if that's set.

As always, I'm grateful for the information provided here!

Marc

03-19-2009, 07:21 AM

The method in the manual of the 3124KS has worked well for us: level fore and aft using the tongue jack then raise the lowest rear tire to level it left/right. Snug up the remaining jacks but not so much that you lift the trailer. So far, never failed.

03-19-2009, 07:28 AM

The only critical part of the leveling is getting the fridge close to level so it operates properly. After that the rest is only for creature comfort ( ie level frying pan). You will also find out that levels located at various places in the TM read differently. My dealer added bubble levels to the bottom front corner of the top front shell. They usually read differently than a level in the fridge. As for using the scissor jacks to raise all four corners to get the wheels off the ground not so sure. You will need a good breakfast the day you have to do that. I use four aluminum jack stands. Lower the front of the TM some and install the two rear ones up flush with the frame ( use small blocks of wood on the tops to protect the paint on the frame) Then use the tongue jack to raise the front until the load in the tires is reduced ( watch the sidewalls) Then install the jack stands under the front frame corners just up tight. This saves wear and tear on the scissor jacks and your cranking arm.

03-19-2009, 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShrimpBurrito

Instead of using the "legos" under the wheels, I use a mil-spec folding shovel to dig a hole on the side that is too high. We usually camp on dirt areas, so this is usually possible. This is inherently more stable than the tire being up on legos, and the hole also acts as wheel chocks.

Dave

If I was boon docking in a remote area, I might dig a hole as well.

However, in a forest service campground, even though the parking pad is dirt, I would not dig a hole. I have no way to pack the dirt back the way it was when I leave. So the next guy to camp in the same site I just left now has a low spot that I caused.

It is easier to take the planks out of my truck to put under the TM tire than it is to dig a hole.

The only advantage to the hole is that if it is on the curb side it will lower the steps. DW has bad knees and has a hard time with steps, so lower is better for her.

**kempert** · 03-19-2009, 08:51 AM

Even though the jacks are rated mucher higher than the TMs weigh, you may not want to put all of the weight of your TM on them. One of my rear jacks became worthless shortly after I used all 4 jacks (& the tongue jack) to lift the TM to replace the tires. I found it easier to take the 3 wheels to get the tires replaced and balanced rather than hook up the TM and tow it to the tire place. I have some jack stands that I'll use next time I need to replace the tires.