Circit breaker pops when trailer plugged into house power

[MrGallegos]

For the past 5 months, I have my TM opened and used as a spare room. The TM is plugged into a power strip/surge protector which is then plugged into an outlet in the garage. The fridge is set to AC and occasionally the guest using the TM plugs in a coffee maker, or hot plate.

The vast majority of time, there is no problem. But once in a while the circuit breaker in the surge protector pops. I then have to go and press the switch on the power strip to reset it and all is fine. This sometimes happen when there is no additional appliance being used, no lights on, no fan, nor anything else but the refrigerator. All would be fine for days, then pop, reset, pop, reset, all is fine, and repeat. Any ideas on a possible solution?

Additional details:
Due to the distance between the outlet and trailer, a 75ft. extension cord is used.

[Bill]

Questions. Forgive me if some are repetitive:

1. Is the extension cord plugged into the TM's big black power cord in any way? Through an adapter, for example? Are any of the normal wall outlets in the TM alive? Or does the end of the extension cord come directly into the interior of the camper, where the power strip is plugged into it, and the appliances all plug into the power strip?
2. Are you sure it is a circuit breaker that pops, or is it a GFI?
3. If it is a circuit breaker, what is its rating (amps)? Most likely 15 amps, but perhaps less - like 10 or 7.5.
4. Does the hot plate have more than one burner?
5. Does the TM have a microwave? If yes, is it ever used? ("Not often" is not a useful answer.) Using any two of the three heating appliances (coffee maker, microwave, hot plate) will likely be an overload.
6. Is there any other heat-making appliance in the trailer, such as a space heater?
7. Is the water heater in the TM turned on? If so, turn it off or switch it to gas. A tank of propane will last nearly forever.
8. You mentioned the refrigerator running on AC. How is that powered, since it has no AC cord?
9. Does the guest ever turn on the air conditioner?
10. Does the guest ever turn on the heat strip in the air conditioner?
11. Do you know the wire size on that long extension cord? There should be a tag or printed rating. Look for AWG-12, or AWG-14, or AWG-16.
12. Can you get rid of the fancy power strip and connect using a multi-outlet block or a power strip that does not have a surge protector or circuit breaker?

Bill

[Bill]

Just found another question.

o Your query was posted today - mid-June
o The TM has been a "guest room" for 5 months - since mid-January.
o You live in Kansas - January is COLD in Kansas
How have you been keeping the TM warm enough to keep guests comfortable, and keep the water system from freezing? Are you currently living in some place warm?

Bill

[MrGallegos]

Originally Posted by Bill

Questions. Forgive me if some are repetitive:

.....

Bill

1. Is the extension cord plugged into the TM's big black power cord in any way? Yes, big black cord plugged to adapter, adapter to extension cord, extension cord to power strip/surge protection, plugged into wall outlet in garage.

Are any of the normal wall outlets in the TM alive? Yes, all TM outlets are alive, any appliances is plugged in the TM interior outlet.

2. Are you sure it is a circuit breaker that pops, or is it a GFI? I do not know, I just flick the on/off switch on the power strip and all is fine.

3. If it is a circuit breaker, what is its rating (amps)? Most likely 15 amps, but perhaps less - like 10 or 7.5. I do not know.

4. Does the hot plate have more than one burner? I think it is just one.

5. Does the TM have a microwave? If yes, is it ever used? ("Not often" is not a useful answer.) Using any two of the three heating appliances (coffee maker, microwave, hot plate) will likely be an overload. No microwave, yes we found out not to use two appliances at the same time.


6. Is there any other heat-making appliance in the trailer, such as a space heater? No

7. Is the water heater in the TM turned on? If so, turn it off or switch it to gas. A tank of propane will last nearly forever. No, it should be off.

8. You mentioned the refrigerator running on AC. How is that powered, since it has no AC cord? The refrigerator has a selector switch that shows a plug, a battery, propane and off. I plugged the Big black cord into the extension cord and turn selector knob to the "plug" symbol.

9. Does the guest ever turn on the air conditioner? No

10. Does the guest ever turn on the heat strip in the air conditioner? No

11. Do you know the wire size on that long extension cord? There should be a tag or printed rating. Look for AWG-12, or AWG-14, or AWG-16. it is AWG-14.


12. Can you get rid of the fancy power strip and connect using a multi-outlet block or a power strip that does not have a surge protector or circuit breaker? Yes, I can try that. However, we tried plugging the extension cord directly into the wall outlet, but the house breaker (breaker box) that supplies electricity to the garage and laundry room went off.

[MrGallegos]

Originally Posted by Bill

Just found another question.

o Your query was posted today - mid-June
o The TM has been a "guest room" for 5 months - since mid-January.
o You live in Kansas - January is COLD in Kansas
How have you been keeping the TM warm enough to keep guests comfortable, and keep the water system from freezing? Are you currently living in some place warm?

Bill

Correction, it was in early March.
The TM was only used during the day, and no water was used. The guest would come in the house at night or for any plumbing needs.
Yes, currently the whole state is warm, getting hotter!

[oldstick]

Adapter, then long extension cord, then a power strip. Power strip possibly plugged into a 15 amp circuit receptacle? There's your answer. First try removing the power strip and plug directly into the outlet. Many power strips have low amperage circuit breakers for good safety reasons, intended for use on computers or electronics that don't pull a large amount of current.

That said, even a 15 amp house circuit might have trouble powering everything in the camper without tripping out, especially if the Air Conditioner is running, or the electric water heat is on. Especially if a coffee pot, hair dryer, or something similar is turned on at the same time. Camper connection is designed to have a 30 amp circuit to plug into if long term use is intended.

Also consider that whatever house outlet you plug the extension cord into is also shared by other items on the same house circuit. That would mean other outlets, appliances, or lights within the house are also contributing to the load on the circuit breaker, along with everything being used inside the camper.

The reason I know this is because I am going through similar problems trying to use our TM as a guest shelter. The only permanent solution is to have a new 30 amp circuit run from the main house breaker panel to a convenient location for a 30 amp RV receptacle that mates up with the big black cord. If you are lucky enough to have sub-panels already wired into detached workshops or such, that is even better. The new circuit could probably be run from there.

These are the options I am now looking into.

[Bill]

I think OldStick has reached the right conclusion. Although your power needs are apparently modest, so is the capability of the outlet strip. Assuming that the power needs will remain modest, your easiest solution is to get a strip that doesn't have a switch or breaker. The probable 15-amp breaker in the house will protect the setup - you don't need another breaker anywhere in the line.

By the way - the outlet in the garage, the extension cord, and the power strip, should all be 3-wire devices. If you have a 2-wire device anywhere in the line, there is a whole 'nuther set of considerations.

And of course, none of the connections between the devices - such as the adapter leading in to the TM's big black cord - should be allowed to get wet - including heavy morning dew.

You do not have a good setup for any increase in power needs. That 75-foot extension cord will be the limit. Unless you tell us different, I would bet that it is made with #16 wire, which is very limited in current-carrying capacity.

Bill

[MrGallegos]

Originally Posted by Bill

...

By the way - the outlet in the garage, the extension cord, and the power strip, should all be 3-wire devices. If you have a 2-wire device anywhere in the line, there is a whole 'nuther set of considerations.

And of course, none of the connections between the devices - such as the adapter leading in to the TM's big black cord - should be allowed to get wet - including heavy morning dew.

You do not have a good setup for any increase in power needs. That 75-foot extension cord will be the limit. Unless you tell us different, I would bet that it is made with #16 wire, which is very limited in current-carrying capacity.

Bill

Yes, all is three wire.

I did notice gaps between the black cord, adapter and extension cord, so moisture could have easily gotten in. I have since pushed each cord closer to each other so that there is the minimum gap.

The 75 ft. ext. cord has 14 AWG imprinted on it.

[Bill]

Originally Posted by MrGallegos

Yes, all is three wire.

That's a good thing. I'm glad to hear it.

I did notice gaps between the black cord, adapter and extension cord, so moisture could have easily gotten in. I have since pushed each cord closer to each other so that there is the minimum gap.

The gaps are not a good thing. Water will seep in, even through small gaps, and get onto the metal current-carrying contacts. Best case - the leakage through the water will cause a GFI to trip (if there is one upstream of the leak), leaving you to trouble shoot again. I would suggest you check out a quick and easy solution from Dick / Commodor47 at
https://www.trailmanorowners.com/for...ad.php?t=20021

The 75 ft. ext. cord has 14 AWG imprinted on it.

That cord is rated to carry 15 amps (about 1600 watts) safely, which is adequate for the situation you describe. There will be some voltage drop through the length of the cord, so with 120 volts going into the cord, the voltage coming out the other end will be reduced. This is OK for heat-producing appliances - they just won't produce quite as much heat. It is NOT OK for big motor-driven appliances such as the air conditioner.

I hope we have solved the mystery for you. If you make two small changes - Dick's rain-proof box and a different outlet strip - the problem should disappear. Let us know if not.

Bill

[MrGallegos]

Thanks everyone for your replies. After thinking about why I did not have the problem months ago, I realized that the problem started happing after I installed the battery cut-off switch. When I turned the battery off, the power strip circuit breaker would eventually go off, but when the switch is on the ON position, there is no problem. I have the battery switched on and everything else the same, and no problems.

Although, I now have a rain proof box to protect the area where the cords and adapters meet.