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Old 10-21-2011, 12:06 PM   #1
rvcycleguy
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Default Hitch weight for rear bumber on TM3124KB

I have recently purchased a 2002 3124KB TM. My goal is to take the TM along with my 800CC motorcycle. My plan was to load the M/C in the truck bed but the length of the M/C is 8ft and requires the tailgate to be in the down position. The edge of the tailgate is too close to the jack post and does not allow for turning radius but a few degrees. My next thought would be to relocate the jack post to the outside of the steel rail and swivel it up and out of place when necessary. Has anyone done that for practical reasons? is it possible to also move the propane tanks back a few inches as well? The other option is to add a small lightweight trailer to the rear. My unit has a small 1/78 ball hitch form the previous owner who pulled a small boat. What would the hitch weight and the tongue weight restrictions be back on that rear bumber?

thanks,

rv
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Old 10-21-2011, 04:40 PM   #2
rumbleweed
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You have more considerations than hitch weight. Many states prohibit or severely limit the use of tandam trailers. The hitch on Most trailers is for a bike rack at most. Adding a trailer with an 800 lb motorcycle would make the TM very difficult to control.
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Old 10-21-2011, 07:45 PM   #3
rvcycleguy
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thanks Rumble. I did not want to double two anyway. I have identified a 24" Torklift hitch extension that has a tongue weight max of 750lbs and up to 1000lbs with a weight distribution hitch. The double tow would have been almost 50ft.

thanks

rv
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Old 10-22-2011, 09:59 AM   #4
PopBeavers
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I spent several years trying to do the same thing, but all I wanted was the ability to carry my 300 pound dual sport motorcycle.

I have seen some people carry a small motorcycle on the front of the truck. Yours is too big. Mine would block the headlights.

Super Hitch makes a hitch bar that is double, over and under. It is intended for trucks that have a camper sticking out the back and want to tow a boat. It will handle a 4 foot extension. I only need about 2 feet.

I gave up on that idea because the longer the hitch bar is the lower it will be when going over driveways. I am already very close to the ground. I have scraped the TM battery box twice, once in a paved driveway and once on a dirt fire road.

So I stopped towing with my 2002 Chevy 1500HD, crew cab with a 6.5 foot bed and added a 2008 GMC 2500HD, crew cab with an 8 foot bed to my stable. This solved my problem. I carry an 800 pound Polaris X2 two person ATV in the bed. I still take the Chevy, because I have 2 ATVs and 2 dirt bikes.

My Chevy, with two motorcycles in the bed, drops so low that I can not remove the TM front wheel unless I jack up the back of the truck. 600 pounds of weight in the bed was apparently a lot more than I had carried previously. The 2500HD has stiffer suspension and is taller, so I do not have a problem with excessive sag.

Although the 2500HD is bigger it gets the same gas mileage.

I got a good deal on the GMC. It is now 3 years old and the Kelly Blue Book rice shows that it has a value that is still a little higher than I paid new.

On my trucks I can hook the tailgate straps up and over the side pins. This puts the tailgate at about a 45 degree angle. That provides just enough extra length to carry a longer ATV. But even then I would ned to be extremely careful with u-turns.

Another alternative is to remove the tailgate.

The distance from the rear axle of the truck to where the hitch ball is mounted is a significant factor in the end result of how close the hitch bar gets to the ground when going in and out of driveways, such as gas stations.

I have a friend that built a special lumber rack so he could load two sand buggies on the top of the lumber rack and still put 3 dirt bikes in the bed, but he had short motorcycles and a long bed.

In my opinion, your only choice is a longer bed. Let me know if you find an alternative solution. After 3 yeas I gave up trying to engineer a solution.
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Old 10-22-2011, 12:12 PM   #5
Bluegrass
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Hey Wayne! You need one of these:

http://www.trucker.com/TrailerDetail...ompanyID=32576

Then you could load up both trucks and the TM and be on your way with only one driver!

Keith
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Old 10-22-2011, 12:32 PM   #6
ELM-JLM
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http://www.amazon.com/Superior-12-15...d_rhf_cr_p_t_1
Hey Wayne, These are what I have been using on my Silverado 1500! They keep me at normal ride height when fully loaded! I don't use the brackets so I can jack up one side and slip them in or out! The shock snubber is a perfect fit and the axle has a flat plate to hold in place! Alaska and back and no unusual tire wear or problems!!
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Old 10-22-2011, 05:05 PM   #7
rvcycleguy
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Pops, So you did not use an extension? I added rear air suspension bags to the Tundra a few years ago to increase the carrying capacity. I can raise or lower the bed, a few inches, with air pressure. Any thoughts on my idea of relocating the jack post and moving the propane tanks back towards the trailer a few inches? Now Im wondering if I move them back, does it block the pull up and out procedure when setting up the trailer at camp. I think all I need is a less than 12" extension and if I use the WDH, I will be okay. The WDH also moves the ball towards the trailer more than the standard 2 x2" receiver?
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Old 10-23-2011, 01:40 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluegrass View Post
Hey Wayne! You need one of these:

http://www.trucker.com/TrailerDetail...ompanyID=32576

Then you could load up both trucks and the TM and be on your way with only one driver!

Keith
This solves the problem of towing a boat behind the TM. Just load the TM and boat on the hauler and now you are only towing a single trailer.
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Old 10-23-2011, 07:35 AM   #9
rumbleweed
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Yes, but does the hitch swing away so you can put it in your garage?
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