Powermover AC5

**Larryjb** · 06-06-2019, 11:11 PM

To those who have the Powermover AC5, are there any instructions for it?

I just picked one up today. It easily moves my trailer up my 12% slope (it's designed to handle up to 15%). Now, I was being cautious so I moved it up about 4-5 inches and tried to stop. It immediately rolled quickly back onto the chock block.

Has anyone had any experience with the Powermover AC5 on an incline? Is there a locking system that will engage if I go farther than 3-4 inches? I don't want to move it 3 feet only to have it roll back down 3 feet, hop my chock block, and end up across the street!

bheisser · 06-07-2019, 03:34 PM

In this thread someone talks about tying. In trailer brakes
https://www.trailmanorowners.com/for...ead.php?t=8391

**Larryjb** · 06-07-2019, 03:56 PM

Thanks,

As always seems to be the case, I find the answer just after I post. I had been searching beforehand for a couple of hours, posted my question, then found the answer myself, right here on TMforums.

However, I left it in case some one else had some more experience using the brakes. It is already wired with two switches, so I presume the other one is for the brake. This leads me to wonder if a DPDT switch might be useful here. Wire P1 from power to the Powermover motor and P2 to the brake. Except, T1-Powermover would be open, T2-Powermover would be connected to the motor. T1-brake circuit would be connected to the brake, T2-brake would be open. This way, as soon as you turn the Powermover "off", the brake automatically turns on.

Or...

I can just darn well learn to coordinate my thumbs!

**Larryjb** · 06-07-2019, 09:14 PM

Okay, I figured out the wiring. I do have power going to the trailer brakes circuit at the Bargman, but the brakes do not seem to be engaging. Now to troubleshoot the TM end.

And yes, I did connect the leads to my truck battery.

**Bill** · 06-08-2019, 06:56 AM

Quote:

Now to troubleshoot the TM end.

Larry -

You need a clamp-on DC ammeter, to see if current is flowing to the magnets - both magnets. In my TM, I went behind the refrigerator, and separated the wire going to the brakes into two wires, one going to each brake. That way I can measure each brake individually, without having to crawl under the trailer. Quite a relief for my not-so-spry body! A clamp-on ammeter, of course, is part of a clamp-on multimeter, one of the handiest things you'll ever buy. For TM or automotive work, make sure it has both AC and DC capability.

Clamp-on AC ammeters are common as dirt, but a clamp-on DC ammeter is another thing. In the Trail Manor Technical Reference Library, I discussed how to choose a clamp-on DC meter, and described one that I have, and like a lot. In fact, I have two of them, one at each end of the country.

https://www.trailmanorowners.com/for...ad.php?t=18923

Bill

**Larryjb** · 06-08-2019, 08:29 PM

Bill,
Yes, I remember reading that info thread. I didn't think I'd need it this soon.

Based on the reviews, even for the one you referenced, I felt it was too risky a buy from Amazon. Plus, something with the ability to measure mV to diagnose parasitic drains would be useful. So, I got this locally:
https://m.kmstools.com/klein-tools-4...p-meter-169424

If anything goes wrong, I can take it back far more easily then I could with an Amazon order.

I haven't used it on the trailer yet. Before I do, I'm going to make sure the brakes are set up right and lube the wheel bearings. They may just need setting up.