Shopping for new tires.

Wavery · 03-01-2009, 12:30 AM

We want to replace our tires before our next trip. I've found that shopping for trailer tires in Los Angeles is a PITA!!!

I have "Tow Master" radial tires on the trailer now and they are (dare I say) 9 years old

. They show no signs of wear or cracking (which is a miracle)

. I would like to buy "Duros" though.

Anyone have any suggestions??

I've found several places online that sell them but I'd rather buy them from the same place that I have install them (even if I have to pay more) so I don't have a pi$$ing contest, in the event of a failure

.

**ShrimpBurrito** · 03-01-2009, 01:33 AM

I've never heard of Duro, but that doesn't mean anything. And I agree, shopping for trailer tires around LA is painful. I bought my Kumhos from Discount Tire Centers (which is different from Discount Tire / Americas Tire). Straight forward transaction, no inflated sales BS, and the techs seemed fairly knowledgeable, at least at the location I went to. That's the only time I've ever been there, but I will go back. He ordered the tires, had them next day, and competitive price.

Discount Tire on the other hand, seems to have a heavy sales emphasis in their stores, and I have been to several locations. They also gave me grief when I went in a few weeks ago to replace a tire under warranty with premature tread wear. I will not go back.

You may have already seen this discussion. FWIW. But I'm sure you can find negative reports on any tire you want if you search for it.

Dave

03-01-2009, 08:34 AM

Check your phone book for utility trailer sales. The utility trailer dealer here is very knowledgeable and has a good selection of trailer tires and wheels.
Bob

Harry Womack · 03-03-2009, 06:52 AM

I used Duro tires on my pop up without any problems. I am using Maxxis now after tearing out my wheel well with my 4 year old Marathons.

**Bill** · 03-03-2009, 12:30 PM

When you do it, remember ...

Metal valve stems. Then balance them all, including spare.

Bill

jimair1548 · 03-09-2009, 02:50 PM

Bill, I am getting ready to replace my tires on my 3023, and the local tire guy says to stay away from the metal valve stems. He indicated that after awhile the nut on the stem often will crack and then they tend to leak in the stem area. I have the metal valve stems on my motorcycle and this has not happened to them(4 years old...the bike, not the tires). Apparently the dealer has experienced this on the trucks and trailers that he has serviced. Maybe heavier loads cause his problems ???......Jim

Wavery · 03-09-2009, 09:32 PM

DONE!!!!

They spin balanced the tires and used steel valve stems. No hidden costs. Mine were $196 out the door (2-tires) 205/75R14 Duro. He inspected my old tires and found no issues with them. He suggested keeping the same spare for about 3 more years then replace it. The only thing that I didn't care for is that they would not service my wheel bearings. He said that they had too much trouble with taking the old bearings out and having a very hard time finding new ones if the old ones were not serviceable. I can see his point because that could tie up a stall for days.

Although the "Tow Masters" tires were indeed 9 years old, they looked in very good condition. No cracks anywhere. I was a little reluctant to post that comment because I would never advise keeping trailer tires that long. Normal life expectancy is 5-6 years. I hope that I get that good service out of these Duros.

**ShrimpBurrito** · 03-09-2009, 11:02 PM

Wayne - just out of curiosity, what made you seek out the Duros?

Also, although Harbor Freight stuff is often of dubious quality, but I bought these for the next time I have to do a bearing job:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95853

They even come in a nice plastic case. It certainly seems they will punch the races right out with just a few taps. Unlike using a punch or screwdriver, they allow you to apply even pressure all the way around the race, and there is no risk of gouging the hub wall/axle housing.

Dave

**Bill** · 03-10-2009, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimair1548

Bill, I am getting ready to replace my tires on my 3023, and the local tire guy says to stay away from the metal valve stems. He indicated that after awhile the nut on the stem often will crack and then they tend to leak in the stem area... Apparently the dealer has experienced this on the trucks and trailers that he has serviced....Jim

Jim -

I've never heard this, but then again I'm no expert. There have been plenty of reports recently of failures of rubber valve stems, so who knows? I would look to WMTIRE for good advice in this arena, but I think he is the one who suggested metal valve stems in the first place.

Bill

03-10-2009, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimair1548

Bill, I am getting ready to replace my tires on my 3023, and the local tire guy says to stay away from the metal valve stems. He indicated that after awhile the nut on the stem often will crack and then they tend to leak in the stem area. I have the metal valve stems on my motorcycle and this has not happened to them(4 years old...the bike, not the tires). Apparently the dealer has experienced this on the trucks and trailers that he has serviced. Maybe heavier loads cause his problems ???......Jim

Jim, I think some pertinent facts have been lost in the translation somewhere, which is causing some confusion for you. If the NUT cracked (which I have never heard of one ever doing this in my 29 years of being in the tire biz), then the stem would do more than just slowly leak. The nut is what holds the metal stem in the wheel.

I strongly believe that he may have told you that the rubber grommet cracked, which it will after a long time. The rubber grommet is the piece of rubber that goes on the inside of the wheel, and forms the airtight seal between the stem and wheel at the valve stem hole. This rubber grommet will dry out, just like any rubber product will do (think, regular rubber stems). You can replace this grommet, without replacing the whole metal stem. These grommets will last many years....and many more than just a regular rubber valve stem will....before they dry out and crack. You'll go thru at least 2, maybe 3 or more, rubber stems before you need to replace the grommet on a metal one.

Also, a standard TR413 rubber valve stem is only rated for 60-65 psi. A metal one is rated for 100+ psi.

Additionally, there are many trailer owners using an add-on tire pressure monitoring system. Most of these add-ons have a sensor that attaches to the valve stem. A rubber stem flexes a lot (and may crack) with this added weight combined with centrifugal force of when the tire is spinning.

I find it hard to believe that a competent tire dealer would not know the advantages of a metal tire stem (which I am using the term loosely). In our biz, these are actually called clamp-in valve stems as opposed to snap-in rubber stems. It may be that he just didn't have any in stock, and thought it would be easier to talk you out of wanting them than to get them. Everything is just a supposition on my part, because I wasn't privy to the conversation. The part about the NUT cracking raised my eyebrow. Heavier loads (and air pressure) is WHY you use metal stems. Look at any semi-truck. ALL of their wheels will have metal clamp-in stems.

Education is key. That's what I like about these forums. You have now armed yourself with knowledge, so you can decide for yourself if someone is directing you correctly.

I am not the one who first suggested clamp-in metal stems here, but I totally agree that they are better than a rubber snap-in stem. The metal ones will cost you a little more, but the advantages (and peace of mind) are worth it.

Bobby