Lift Kit Installed, Now what about the Hitch?

We did the wheel well modification (Thanks Hal for such precise instructions) and installed the lift kit. The 14 inch tire upgrade seems like it will work just fine.

The TM is now 3.5 inches taller between the lift kit and the larger tires. We hitched it up to see how it lines up behind the TV and there is a definate dip toward the TV now.
Is this something that must be corrected even if the TV is level from the WDH?
We are already at the top of the adjustment on the shank.
Cheri

[fcatwo]

I've seen tall hitch balls over the years but I don't know how strong they are. Might be a good time to visit a hitch shop for advice. Also, some shanks are made so you can flip them over.

I looked at the Reese site and I think I can get a longer L shaped shank than I have so that might work. Interestingly enough, the larger tires were cheaper by about $20 bucks each...weird.

It's already in the up position unfortunately. I was hoping to avoid the expense of purchasing another but I think it will have to be. This has been an expensive blow out but hopefully good things are coming of it in the long run.
Cheri

How much does the TM dip in the front? If you can get the tow vehicle level a little bit of dip on the trailer isn't a big deal - unless we're talking 3 -4 inches. A little dip in the front can help keep you from dragging the back end and won't affect the tow-ability. It's better to have the front a little low than the back. If you do decide on a new draw bar, you might check Wal-Mart - they have a pretty good selection of hitch parts at our Wal-Mart and a lot cheaper than most other places. I've bought a lot of things there - i.e. locking draw-bar pin, coupler lock pin, coupler lock, etc.

It was level before adding the lift kit and tires. I'll bet it's 3 inches maybe more. I am going to get it good and level and then measure the trailer hitch from the ground and see how much I need when I get home from work. With the lift kit and the larger tires I can't imagine ever bottoming out. I have to warn my dogs that the steps in are a lot higher than they used to be, or they'll face plant trying to get in it. It is noticible taller!
Cheri

[fcatwo]

On the "level" question, it's a personal choice but I like to be able to drive onto a fairly level site and set up without unhitching if we will be there only one night or so. I often use a block under one or more tires and then the front jack for fine tuning but 3" low in either front or back will seriously complicate doing that. Besides, after reading your previous posts I'm guessing that you are a fairly meticulous person and will not be able to handle towing something as unsightly as your nose-low rig will be :-). Many people are not bothered by such things but some of us are.

One reason I think it will need to be level is that it looks like the chains from the WDH will hit the pin from the swing away tongue. It already does slightly with extreme turns. I never use that thing and wish I didn't have it. Thanks for assuming that I am meticulous...others might see me more as..oh, I don't know...paranoid
Cheri

I have a couple of links to spare. I think my bars could be an inch longer to clear the pin. If I lengthen the chains, the rods won't be level with the ground. They are supposed to be level, right?
Im referring to the vertical chain that attaches to the end of the WDH rod. Are we talking about the same chain?
Cheri

[Bill]

Cheri -

The rods (aka springbars) don't actually have to be level. You should try to accomplish 3 things.

1. When properly adjusted - that is, when you use the proper number of links - the springbars should return the tow vehicle to the same orientation it had before the TM was put on the hitch ball. There is an article on adjustment of the springbars in the TM Reference Library. Once you have accomplished this, the TM should also be level, but if it isn't, you don't use the springbars to level it. As you pointed out, you raise or lower the hitchball so that the TM is level when the springbars are pulled up the proper amount.

2. The tips of the springbars should not be so close to the ground that they threaten to drag on the pavement at every rise and dip.

3. The tips of the springbars should not be so high that they, or the chains, catch on parts of the hitch apparatus when the tow vehicle makes a sharp turn. Beyond this, if the tips of the springbars are too high, a great deal of stress is created when the tow vehicle turns sharply. Either Denny_A or RockyMtnRay commented on the "GROAN" that is heard when this happens - you can find it with the SEARCH tool. As I recall, you need at least 5 chain links between the springbar tips and the hooks to prevent this.

Finally, if you get everything properly adjusted so that the tow vehicle's attitude is proper and the TM is level, and then find that the springbar tips are too high or too low, you can move those tips up or down by tilting the ball mount. They all have an adjustable tilt, intended specifically for moving the springbar tips up and down.

Hope this makes sense - PM me if it doesn't.

Bill