2005 Lexus RX330/TM 2720SL - Page 2

Dagrip · 08-14-2006, 06:20 AM

Thanks for the tip on running the safety cables under the tongue. Since they are mounted on top I assume that i should either feed them back through the tongue opening or cross them under the tongue itself.

I'll also take a look at the electrical cable to verify that it is secure in it's clips.

Thanks again!

Scott

**Bill** · 08-14-2006, 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2blueranger

It appears your tm electrical cable has came loose from it's little bracket on the frame. It might cause a problem wrapped around the tongue jack. If you have too much cable, I would tie wrap it to the frame somehow, keeping it in line.

Actually, Dagrip's electrical cable looks just like mine. The cable is a little longer than my rig needs, but if the hitch had a longer stem, or if the vehicle half of the Bargman were mounted a bit more off center, then the extra length would be needed.

I have dealt with the extra length exactly as Dagrip did - routing it around the jackpost - without incident. The purpose, of course, is to keep the cable off the ground as I drive, and also to make sure there is enough slack that if the tow vehicle makes a HARD right turn (for example, when backing into a site), the cable won't pull out of the Bargman connector.

I've thought about tie wrapping it to the jack post. But when I park, I disconnect the cable and put the connector back across the propane tanks and under the body of the TM, to keep it out of the weather. If it were tie wrapped to the jack post, it wouldn't reach this dry location.

[Full disclosure. I USED to put the unplugged cable in that location. More recently, I bought a connector protector, like this one
http://www.plug-guard.com/
which is even better. These seem to be available at most RV stores.]

Bill

08-14-2006, 09:38 AM

I also wrap the excess cord around the tongue jack. The cord is about 18 inches longer than it needs to be. The socket is very close to the hitch, so there is no risk of yanking the cord out of the socket in a turn.

**fcatwo** · 08-14-2006, 10:45 AM

RE unplugging when stopping: You guys are obviously sharper than I am but I used to unplug the cable when we stopped for lunch, etc but not when just stopping for gas -- and it didn't work for me. I found that a small percentage of the time something would happen (like a sudden rain storm) and I would hop back in and drive off without re-hooking the cable. I alway realized my mistake before leaving the parking lot because of the difference in braking but my wife once drove our former pickup and 5th wheel a couple hundred miles on an interstate without noticing the difference. That was my fault and not hers. The prodigy will tell me when it isn't connected but I don't rely on it. My rule now is to unhook only when we stop for the night and the TV has never failed to start -- maybe I'll change this practice if we ever find a dead TV battery but I'd rather have that than be on the road with no lights or brakes. I should mention that we have well over 150,000mi of RV and boat towing behind us so we've had a lot of opportunities to screw up. YMMV

**Bill** · 08-14-2006, 12:02 PM

Frank -

As I imagine you know, but others may not, many tow vehicles have a relay (automatic switch) that disconnects power to the trailer connector when the tow vehicle ignition is turned off. My Explorer certainly does, so I never have to pull the Bargman plug, even if I'm going to be stopped all day.

To determine whether your tow vehicle has a relay, you need either a voltmeter or a test light. Disconnect your trailer entirely, and start your tow vehicle's engine. Connect one side of the meter or test light to ground - the metal frame of the tow vehicle. Lift the lid of the Bargman connector, and apply the other lead of the voltmeter or test light to the pin that is just to the right (clockwise) from the keyway. This is the charge line, and you should see 12 VDC (or light the test light) there. Assuming that you do, turn off the ignition. If the 12 VDC goes away (the light goes out), then your tow vehicle has an automatic disconnection relay, and need never disconnect your TM. If this pin still shows 12 VDC with the ignition off, then you do NOT have protection, and you need to pull the plug when you stop for an extended period.

Bill

**fcatwo** · 08-14-2006, 01:36 PM

Thanks Bill. I was vaguely aware of that and suspect our Tundra has it. I think RMR, who also has a Tundra, has posted something to that effect. I do plan to add the TM battery cutoff you recommend before our next trip. I've been just removing the negative cable from the battery the few times we've stopped for an extended period (like overnight) without setting up.

RockyMtnRay · 08-14-2006, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fcatwo

Thanks Bill. I was vaguely aware of that and suspect our Tundra has it. I think RMR, who also has a Tundra, has posted something to that effect. I do plan to add the TM battery cutoff you recommend before our next trip. I've been just removing the negative cable from the battery the few times we've stopped for an extended period (like overnight) without setting up.

As soon as you turn off the ignition key in your Tundra, the trailer is electrically isolated from the truck's battery. You do NOT have to disconnect the umbilical cord to the trailer to ensure the truck battery will not run down during an extended stop. Leave the trailer connected and don't worry about it.

Even better...if you need to have the headlights/fog lights/parking lights/running lights on while towing (dark, stormy, whatever) and you forget to turn off the lights for a stop, the "auto-off" feature in the Tundra's lighting circuit will not only turn off all the truck's lights but will also turn off the trailer's running lights as soon as you switch off the ignition and open the driver side door. Get back in after your stop and turn on the ignition and all the lights...including the trailer lights...will come back on.

**fcatwo** · 08-14-2006, 11:59 PM

Thanks Ray, that certainly puts my concern to rest. I think the Tundra also has a large enough alternator and wiring to run the fridge and fan plus charge both the TV and TM batteries while towing. I've never had a problem with either -- which makes me a little more comfortable with leaving the fridge and fan running during lunch stops. That's about the only work our TM battery gets because we are hooked up to shore power every night if we can find it.

scribeworks · 07-29-2010, 01:20 PM

I think y'all are unveiling the one flaw in Trail Manor's marketing claim that their trailers
tow as easily as a canvas popup (or words to that effect). I have a Mercury Mariner with an
upgraded motor that can pull the weight of a TM but because of the electrical relays (like
big fuses) limitations I can only use a 4 pin towing harness which excludes having a brake
controller because they require a 7 pin harness. Canvas popups do not have brakes on them so they work on 4pin harness; the TM evidently has electrical brakes on all the wheels and as
Freedom and others point out if your towed rig has such brakes then you must install a brake controller or be illegal in most States (not to mention void the warranty on your towing vehicle if you ignore the rule)...if I am wrong with this, I sure would like to hear it, as I would love to buy a TM without having to upgrade my Mariner..!

ThePair · 07-29-2010, 02:56 PM

I did the install myself on my Sienna, since it had nothing. I first put in a 4-way pigtail, and then ran 3 wires from the battery and brake controller back to the hitch, and used a 4 to 7-way kit to make the bargeman connector. I don't see how this is in any way different from your setup? You'd just need to run 2 wires from the battery and a third from the brake controller, and you should be good to go. Since i installed my own relays for the 3 extra wires, I wasn't dependent on anything stock in the Sienna for those, and you shouldn't be limited either.