Converter with adjustable charge current?

[ShrimpBurrito]

Originally Posted by rickst29

Dave, I think that you were misinformed (either the support rep didn't know/forgot, or got misled by you asking a general question about "a" lead acid charging profile). AFAIK, and I'm pretty certain about this - DIP switches are used to distinguish FLA from AGM/Gel batteries, and the latter switch position provides for 3-stage WITHOUT equalization. "Equalization" for FLA should also be higher, at or near 15 volts.

I specifically asked if AGM and FLA profiles were separate, and thus could be selected separately, and I was told no. The manual, unfortunately, is lacking in detail, but the rep seemed confident in his answer. According to him, there are only 2 charge profiles: AGM/FLA and lithium. And yes, those profiles are selectable via a jumper on the PC board. I obviously can't say if he was confused, but I confirmed other aspects of what I posted a second time, and in each instance, we were both on the same page.

Originally Posted by rickst29

But it's possible that I'm wrong, and also possible that they have changed microcode subsequent to my earlier query. If the behavior is as you describe, with a very LOW "equalization voltage", it's utterly harmless. If equalization voltage is too much (above 14.6V), then each battery BMS will be called upon to invoke "over-voltage disconnect" every 24 hours. Different BMS models may or may not recover from temporary and moderate over-voltage situations automatically. It depends on the BMS.

At least with Battle Born's batteries, the 14.4v applied during the daily 15 min equalization charge is well within the recommended voltage for bulk charging. So every day, even after the batteries are fully charged, they've have that voltage applied. Fifteen minutes might not sound like alot, but that nearly 2 hours a week, every week. And yes, while the BMS might cut power to the battery, I view the BMS as a safety device, and don't want to plan on its routine operation. Further, he did say they've received reports of people leaving their lithium batteries on charge using the PD4600-series converters, and their BMS subsequently failing. Presumably, the BMS fails in the open mode, so at least then the batteries continue to be protected from overcharging, but it also means the BMS is toast and the battery cannot be used until it is repaired.

Originally Posted by rickst29

Within my own battery packs - 14.4V is not defined as "over voltage", but anything exceeding 14.6V definitely invokes disconnection. IIRC, my own "WildKat" (a slightly customized version of the 4600) has a DIP switch position for Gel-AGM, and that'w where I have it.

Through the winter, my TM cord is plugged in continuously. The Wildkat sits within "storage/float", providing about 13.2 V mode, and my batteries sit at almost the same voltage. (A small difference exists, due to voltage drop within the BMS itself). If it's going up to 14.4V for a few minutes in the dead of night, I haven't witnessed those events. If it's going all the way up to 14.8V or 15.0V, then both BMS units are successful in disconnecting the "charge" circuit and recovering automatically. In any case, during mid-winter, charging is usually suppressed on the basis of temperature as well. (Temperature-based charge suppression in Daly "Smart" BMS works great, and it's definitely self-recovering when temperatures warm up.)


AGM/GEL has been a great setting for my LFP batteries. They're plugged in continuously, and this is my second winter with no "degradation" of battery performance having occurred after the first Winter - or during shorter intervals of TM storage within other seasons.

That's great to know! Why did you choose the WildKat version?

Dave

[rickst29]

With the charge wizard pendant included, it was slightly cheaper. The filtering capacitors appeared a bit more 'beefy', and the microcode was supposedly a bit better (at that time... this was about 3 years ago).

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by ShrimpBurrito

One issue I'm now facing has to do with finding suitable circuit protection between the panels and controller. I'm connecting the panels in series, so at around 65V max, the voltage will exceed the rating of most DC breakers and fuses I've found, even ATL fuses. Larger fuses like class T are rated for higher voltages, but I can't find a fuse small enough.....probably around 15A. Seems like it would be a pretty common problem for larger RV installs, and I think it is typically addressed with DIN-mount breakers. Those require a box though, and I was just trying to get away with a smaller footprint.

Dave

https://www.amazon.com/WindyNation-F...s%2C180&sr=8-3

I'll be following this thread closely as I'm prepairing to install solar on our new-2-us TM.

I've installed many systems (including 2 TMs) and have a 600W system on our MH. I want to go with as light as possible this time.

Our camping is strictly boondocking and I hate running the generator unless I have to. I still have 2-Honda 2000s and normally only bring one, unless it's going to be hot and I need to run the A/C for extended time.

[ShrimpBurrito]

I have no idea what the voltage rating of "32v/58v/72v" means.....can you tell?

Dave

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by ShrimpBurrito

I have no idea what the voltage rating of "32v/58v/72v" means.....can you tell?

Dave

Voltage on what? If you are talking about the solar converter, it will detect the appropriate voltage. Maybe I missed something.

[ShrimpBurrito]

Originally Posted by Wavery

Voltage on what? If you are talking about the solar converter, it will detect the appropriate voltage. Maybe I missed something.

The voltage rating of the fuse to which your linked to above. I thought you had posted a link to it because it had a relatively high voltage rating, given the preceding discussion. Looking at its specs (there are several listed at that link with various current ratings), they are rated for 32/58/72v. I don’t know what that means.

Dave

[rickst29]

Originally Posted by ShrimpBurrito

I specifically asked if AGM and FLA profiles were separate, and thus could be selected separately, and I was told no. The manual, unfortunately, is lacking in detail, but the rep seemed confident in his answer. According to him, there are only 2 charge profiles: AGM/FLA and lithium. And yes, those profiles are selectable via a jumper on the PC board. I obviously can't say if he was confused...

Per this picture, the WildKat has TWO sets of jumpers. One sliding jumper chooses Lithium versus non-Lithium. When Lithium is not selected, the second pair of pins labeled "H4" becomes significant:

• With no jumper attached (pins are disconnected), FLA charging applies - with anti-sulfation cycles.
• When a jumper is pressed to connect the pins (as I have done), GEL charging applies - with no anti-sulfation cycles.

This 2-pin header may be removed in newer models, but it was definitely present in the WildKat (and it's corresponding Board generation of PD models). If it's still like mine, then the Rep was wrong, perhaps confused by your question concerning "AGM", rather than "GEL".

[ShrimpBurrito]

Originally Posted by rickst29

Per this picture, the WildKat has TWO sets of jumpers. One sliding jumper chooses Lithium versus non-Lithium. When Lithium is not selected, the second pair of pins labeled "H4" becomes significant:

• With no jumper attached (pins are disconnected), FLA charging applies - with anti-sulfation cycles.
• When a jumper is pressed to connect the pins (as I have done), GEL charging applies - with no anti-sulfation cycles.

This 2-pin header may be removed in newer models, but it was definitely present in the WildKat (and it's corresponding Board generation of PD models). If it's still like mine, then the Rep was wrong, perhaps confused by your question concerning "AGM", rather than "GEL".

Thanks, Rick, this is interesting. The charge voltage parameters of at least the lead acid profile is exactly as what is described at the BestConverter.com site listing for this same model:

https://www.bestconverter.com/PD-463...l#.Ye8XFP7MK70

14.4v bulk, 13.6v absorption, 13.2v float, with equalization/desulfation for 15 min every 21 hours (not 24) at 14.4v.

Also on that page they show pictures of the PC board of that model, focusing on only one jumper, which selects between 2 charging profiles: flooded lead acid/AGM and lithium. Nothing for gel, and no indication the desulfation charge can be disabled either on that website or in the product manual.

They do still sell the Wildkat models, but it looks like the PC board is exactly the same as the 4600-series, as described above. And it appears they may only be sold in 55 amp versions, which is too high for me.
https://www.bestconverter.com/PD-465...l#.Ye8Y8_7MK73

Dave

[rickst29]

To the left of the 3-pin (with the big blue arrow, and with a black jumper already present), you will see the white header with two pins and no jumper attached. Read the upside down label for that header:

OFF = LEAD(something). The word "OFF" is slightly obscured by the lettering "BestConverter.com".

ON = GEL.

In the post above, I gave you the wrong picture - but definitely the right idea. That must be where I added the jumper.
- - -
55A might be too high for you, in the exotic situation of one battery totally disconnected (and the WildKat running "Bulk" with no Trailer Loads at all). I've never experienced an over-current problem, but I did modify my BMS parameters to allow slightly higher charge current into each battery.

[ShrimpBurrito]

Hark! I see that now, great catch. I had sent an email to BestConverter earlier today (I think I recall hearing that Randy is responsive) asking about it, so I will update when I hear back.

Dave