Trailer hitch coupler issues

[MarkoPolo]

I find that it is easy to drop the hitch coupler on to the ball, but it is very hard to get the coupler closed until I actually pull the trailer forward (and sometimes back) to get it to "thunk" and then I can close the latch. Also when un-hitching, I have to use a pry bar of some sort to lift the latch up. It is ( I think) an A-frame coupler with a wrap around yoke--what is on all recent TMs I think.
Do I need to make some adjustments or is my technique wrong? I would appreciate any suggestions.
Mark

Assuming it is greased and in proper working condition, usually has to do with getting the right amount of weight on the ball. Once in awhile mine gets a little touchy, but most likely due to my having too much or not enough weight on the ball.

I find that if the ball is offset to the front of the coupler a bit, so the trailer is pulled forward a little as the coupler falls onto the ball works best. That frees the under-lying clamp. If the ball is too far back, it is jammed up against the clamp.

[Bill]

Originally Posted by MarkoPolo

... Also when un-hitching, I have to use a pry bar of some sort to lift the latch up...
Mark

Mark -

NO! Don't use a pry bar to open the latch! You have not asked me how I know this, so I'll tell you.

I had the same problem when I first got my TM - on many occasions, I simply couldn't open the latch. So like you, I resorted to a pry bar. After a dozen applications of the bar on various occasions, I broke an internal piece of the coupler! The fix required a only simple weld up inside the coupler cup, which should have been cheap. Since I was on the road, I was lucky to find a guy to do it for any price.

My final answer was to unhitch the trailer, crank up the tongue jack, and get down on my back so I could peer up into the coupler. I had a forehead-smack moment as I came to understand exactly how the coupler works.

Bottom line - Brulaz is exactly right. You need to pull your tow vehicle forward an inch, to unburden the coupler. Of course, if the TM also moves forward an inch, you've accomplished nothing, so on these occasions you might have to block the TM wheels.

Bill

[MarkoPolo]

Thanks, everyone.
I should clarify: I use the pry bar on the front of the coupler, not the latch. I have found being a little forward does help, but is a little hard to precisely line up, you get it just right and putting it in park it moves!
Mark

If you put the vehicle emergency brake on first, then put the transmission in park, the vehicle will sit exactly where you want it. I do this every time I couple or uncouple. As Bill says, throw a chock on the trailer and both will sit without moving. This technique allows you to move small amounts as needed to relieve pressure on the coupler.

[mcgyver210]

Our 2008 has always required a slight pull forward as others have said. I asked my dad who has lots of trailer experience about this years ago. He said that many couple-rs do this although there are some that work better than others.

Our 14' Double Axle Utility Trailer never really needs any help. It has what looks like a floating mechanism.

Also same for our boat trailer it has a square shaped hitch with a quick release button w pull handle.

[MarkoPolo]

Thanks to all once again. Bill, I did crawl under there tonight and watch the mechanism work--I understand better that it must move back as well as up. Mr. P, thanks for the tip to block the wheels and put tow vehicle parking brake on, makes perfect sense and I'll find out Thursday! I have understood that forward placement was best, but these tips should really help make it easier.
Mark

[mcgyver210]

I have another way I will get mine to work.

I actually will have wife manually lock the Electric Brakes using brake controller only & pull slightly forward at same time. Gives same effect as a wheel chock & I have done it by my self before also.

[scrubjaysnest]

If none of the above suggestions work out you may have to loosen the nut on the bottom of the locking piece. Be very carefull with this, only turn the nut one flat at a time or about 1/8 turn. This adjusts how far towards the ball the latching mechanism moves.