New Owner Questions

I know that these questions have probably been answered before, however, I have read many and still not so sure of things, so here goes.

I have a 2000 2720SL TM Model, I have a 2009 Toyota Tacoma 4L Maual 6 speed, with a 5000lb rating and 650 hitch rating. This TV has a 100 amp alternator.

I camp alone and have to be able to do everything by myself and I am 5'7" 135 lbs, which means not a lot of muscle power.

Question 1-I have been looking at weight distribution hitches and am concerned about my ability to hook it up and disconnect it when I get to my camping site.

Question 2-I want to run my fridge while traveling and it appears there is some issues with this and many are running 8 wire the entire length of the TV and TT, if I need to do this I will have to take it to a shop as I have no clue how to do that, not very mechanical. So do you need to run it all the way to the TM batteries or can I just run a dedicated wire to the connection and the other question is will my 100 amp alternator need to be replaced with a larger one.

Keep it simple stupid for me, thank you.

[rickst29]

For ease of use, you will want to avoid WDH models which use "cinch-up" hooks and chains. Instead, look for something like the "Equal-i-zer" WDH. (It comes with Sway control, which you don't really need, but it's harmless to have.)

After installing the bar receivers to the correct height for a loaded trailer (once), you connect and disconnect using the A-frame jack.
Raise the jack "extra high", enough so that the tubes can slide into the mountings. Then, when you lower the trailer jack (i.e., pulling the wheel all the way up and removing it), the trailer settles back to a leveled position - with the WDH fully engaged.

It's a little bit slower than my own "chain-up" type, but if you can turn the crank to raise the trailer, you'll get it done.

But, if you go with my type (traditional round bar, with chains), I feel that it's not that much hard than turning the crank. In addition to the usual advice, "remember to lift with your legs and knees, and keep your back straight" advice, you could buy a longer steel tube to replace the "cinch up handle" tube which comes with the hitch. A longer tube allows you to create the same amount of "leverage", while applying a lot less direct force with your hands.
----
if you plan to carry any weight in the truck bed, behind the rear tires - add all of that weight to the "necessary capacity" which your trailer calls for, when choosing the size of a WDH.

[rickst29]

IIRC, your 2009 Taco is a lot like my 2007 4R. And, if that similarity extends to the bargeman wiring, then you don't need to re-wire it:

I've had no obvious problems with the Fridge running the TM batteries down, due to insufficient wiring to-and-through the Bargeman Connector. From what I've seen, the Fridge gets to suck on the 4R battery REALLY HARD whenever the engine isn't running.

BTW, I don't like using overdrive (my 5th, your 6th) unless RPMs are above 1800, and I'm going downhill. Among other issues, low RPMs prevent the alternator from generating the "extra" power which the refrigerator will want to have when towing on a hot day.

Thanks so much for your help. Ok, I give rickst 29 how do I find out if I have a bargeman wiring look in manual and it didn't say, so where on the truck would I look or how would I tell if I have this. Also I can crank the jack with no problem but I was concerned that the weight distribution hitch weighs about 80 lbs and wasn't and still not sure how much of that I have to lift each time I camp, I have a cheater bar I could pack with me if you think that will help with the chain thing. Sorry not using technical terms, as I learn them I will use them. Also might add that I don't have the towing package on my truck but it did come with hitch and wiring harness, not sure if that will make a difference to my disadvantage. Thanks again.

[LoveToCamp]

Unfortunately, you will likely want to remove the WDH whenever you are not going to be towing in the near future. If on a trip, leave it in. You may want to get a locking pin, though, so it doesn't walk off.

I use the tongue jack to raise the ball once I have hooked the trailer to it. I raise the ball 4", or so, and then attach the chains. This way, I don't even use the cinch bar to fasten the chains. This makes the cinch chains very easy to use, so I would not worry about the type of WDH.

[Bill]

Originally Posted by rickst29

For ease of use, you will want to avoid WDH models which use "cinch-up" hooks and chains. Instead, look for something like the "Equal-i-zer" WDH. (It comes with Sway control, which you don't really need, but it's harmless to have.)

After installing the bar receivers to the correct height for a loaded trailer (once), you connect and disconnect using the A-frame jack.
Raise the jack "extra high", enough so that the tubes can slide into the mountings. Then, when you lower the trailer jack (i.e., pulling the wheel all the way up and removing it), the trailer settles back to a leveled position - with the WDH fully engaged.

It's a little bit slower than my own "chain-up" type, but if you can turn the crank to raise the trailer, you'll get it done.

Rick -

I guess I will take a minor exception to your post. You say that you can engage your Equalizer quite easily by cranking up the tongue jack extra high, slipping the bars in place, and lowering the tongue jack again. But many owners are not aware that you can engage a chain-lift WDH in exactly the same way. Lift high, slip on the chain (by hand), lift the bracket (by hand), and lower. I find that if I do this, I can slip the chain on the hook, and raise the bracket, with two fingers. No "cheater pipe" needed. In fact, this is the emergency method for engaging the WDH if you lose your cheater bar.

If you have an electric jack, the "lift-it-high" method is a breeze for either hitch. I don't have an electric jack, though, and for me, the cheater bar method is A LOT easier, and considerably faster, than cranking the jack up enough to lift it high, and then cranking it back down.

Without meaning to beat a dead horse here, let me point out that with a chain-lift hitch, I can change the amount of lift very easily, and do so in a jiffy, simply by engaging more or fewer chain links.

Why would I want to do this? I have run into two reasons - there may be more. First, if you are going on a long camping trip, and both the TM and the TV are heavily loaded, you need more lift from your WDH. But if you make a short trip and are lightly loaded, you need less. I can compensate by simply picking up one or two fewer links in the chain. With a bar-in-bracket hitch, I don't think the amount of lift is easily adjustable.

The second occasion is more unusual, but happens when you need to cross a deep swale. For example, at the entrance to the campground in the Chiricahua National Monument in Arizona, there is a nicely-paved drainage ditch several feet deep and only a couple car lengths wide. When the tow vehicle passes the center of the swale and starts up the other side, the trailer is still in a very nose-down position. This imposes an enormous strain on the WDH and its mountings. (This may be the root cause of some of the reported weld failures on swing hitches.) With my chain-lift WDH, I can stop at the top of the swale, jump out of the car, back off the lift by a couple links, and jump back in the car, without holding up traffic appreciably. With a bar-in-bracket hitch, you can't do that.

So as always, it depends on your own setup and your own preferences. To each his own, in other words.

Bill

[thewayneo]

I'm glad that Bill posted about the easy way to "cinch" a WDH. I also have never used the cheater bar, just two fingers. I've owned both types of WDH and it just depends on which comes up cheapest on craigslist when I need one.

As far as lifting or removing heavy parts--I only remove the bars (maybe 10 pounds) and all the other stuff stays connected 365. So lifting heavy stuff shouldn't be a concern.

But Doris, I think you have enough questions that you should seek out some hands-on advice. Maybe a friend or neighbor who could look at your TV and demonstrate how their WDH works. Once you see it done, its no harder than remembering all the steps to fold/unfold the TM!

wayne

[rickst29]

Of COURSE, the stress on any set of WDH bars can reduced by raising the A-frame Lift. That "trick" is not exclusive to
Equal-i-zer. Which I don't own; I own a Round-Bar WDH. (But I have been tugging with the "Cheater Bar" exclusively -- using no assistance from raising the Trailer on it's A-frame lift or front Jacks.)

And I do agree with Bill - with the strength to pull on the cheater bar redcued by lifting the trailer, THEN the advantage goes to a traditional chain hook-up design: Because you can change the amount of force by using more (or fewer) links, right when you hook it up.

I almost always end up setting the WDH one link "more loose" when I come home, compared to the number of links used when I went out.
- - - -
Your first two times will seem complicated, but then it's easy. With my Robin, it takes me about ONE minute to do both sides.

My great thanks to Wayne and Bill, for advising you (and me !) of my confusion WRT the "Raise the Trailer" trick.

[rickst29]

Originally Posted by DorisDay

How do I find out if I have a Bargman wiring look in manual and it didn't say, so where on the truck would I look?

If you have the factory hitch (in the center, under the bumper) then it's probably at the same height, but close to the Driver's side. That's where they put it on my 4R. There's a small protection flap covering the connector - if you flip it up, you will see 6 big contacts arranged in an outer circle, plus two more encircling the center. If you don't have such a thing, anywhere along the rear, then you will need to go to hitch/trailer installation place to have one wired up and installed.

If you do need to have a Bargman added to your Taco, then be sure to insist that wires "Red", "Blue" and "White" be no smaller than #10. (#8 is bigger, better; #12 and #14 gauge are unaceptable for running the TM Fridge.)

Originally Posted by DorisDay

Also I can crank the jack with no problem but I was concerned that the weight distribution hitch weighs about 80 lbs and wasn't and still not sure how much of that I have to lift each time I camp....

Yes, the WDH "Head" is a very heavy part. But you won't have to put it on the truck more than once per Trip - you use a locking hitch pin, and leave it connected to your Taco Hitch Receiver while you leave camp to do things. After moving the Trailer into your campsite, you loosen the WDH bars and take them out of the hitch head (put them into your truck storage box). You raise the TM to disconnect the hitch ball from the WDH Hitch Head, and the Truck is now free... with the Hitch Head still attached. You could even leave it on for 365 days per year, although I've never seen anybody do that with a WDH... they're somewhat valuable, and maybe too attractive to thieves.

Originally Posted by DorisDay

I have a cheater bar I could pack with me if you think that will help with the chain thing.... Also might add that I don't have the towing package on my truck but it did come with hitch and wiring harness, not sure if that will make a difference to my disadvantage. Thanks again.

You will definitely want to bring the "cheater bar" on your trips.

I don't remember exactly how Toyota sells the "towing package" - It does replace the "screwed into the frame with 2 screws" Standard Hitch Connector with a heavier, multi-screw structure (which you don't need... the "standard" 2-screw hitch is far beyond adequate for any TM model.) The important question is one you already asked: We don't know if a Bargman is present on your Truck. If it isn't, then you will need to hire an installer (per above) to attach the Bargman Connector to your frame, and run those wires up to your Truck's "Trailer wiring harness". That wiring harness is either under the dashboard, or in the engine compartment.

Be sure to take a phone-camera shot of the TM end when you visit the Trailer place, so that they can be sure to install a matching connector.

Thanks for all the advice, I think I will go to a hitch place to look at the weight distribution and by looking while explaining will probably make it clear to me. I get the concept and appreciate the fact that I will not have to lug it off and on all the time that was my big concern.

I do in fact already have the connection on my truck it came wired and ready for a trailer just didn't get the extra suspension, oil and transmission cooler and brake connected that comes with the towing package. I don't feel I really need the cooler as it is manual and I have already had the brake installed, feel much more comfortable about my 3,000 mile journey thanks to all of you.

Thanks for the advice about the camera shot would have not thought to do that.