Door a tight fit

We have a 2008(?) 3124KB. The aft door section, the one that's 4" wide, cannot be put in place if the trailer is fully on its wheels due to an interference fit of the aluminum plate at the top of the 4" panel and the bottom of the forward body shell. However, if we put down the stabilizer jacks and take some weight off the road wheels, the aft door section can be easily put in place. We took it to the dealer once and had the position of the forward top shell adjusted, but this has not fully resolved the problem. I've also filed and ground a bit on the bottom of the forward upper shell to no avail.
I suspect that using the stabilizers lifts the ends (and hence the forward upper shell) a few thousandths relative to the bottom shell.
The deadbolt lock doesn't easily engage without an upward force on the door handle; I suspect that a little Dremel work on the strike-plate can resolve this problem.
I'd appreciate suggestions or ideas; this is real inconvenient for loading/unloading...

[ferdoh]

Same thing here. I'm going to lift the rear of the front shell on the lift arm. Think that will work.

Ferdoh - thanks. How does one make that adjustment? 1 mm should do it for me.

[Unstable_Tripod]

There are detailed directions for shell adjustment here on the forum. I don't remember the name of the poster. I used the info to do mine because my door was also having problems. It's very detailed and well-done. A forum search should find it for you.

The idea is to have the shells level and parallel to the ground in the front-back and right-left directions. You need a jack, a length of 2x4, a level, a tape measure and some wrenches. Measure current heights and decide how much you need to move the various parts of each shell. There are four support arms on each shell and four bolts on each support arm. The process is tedious and time-consuming. After some trial and error I found that I needed to lift each section about 1/4" higher than I wanted because it dropped back that much when I released the jack.

Beware of unintended consequences. Initially, I thought that lifting just the front shell a bit would solve the door problem, and it did (along with some tweaks to the hinge) but then I realized that the seal between the front and back shells (on the roofs where they overlap) was no longer tight. I could see daylight through there from inside the trailer so I had to lift the rear shell too. Getting both shells level in the right-left dimension is important for a good seal on the vertical sides where the shells overlap as well.

Lifting the shells also put the "travel" distance (the total distance the shells can travel all the way forward or to the rear) out of synch and I had to adjust that, too (directions are in that same post). Ideally, shell travel should stop at such a point that the small metal pins are lined up perfectly with the holes on the metal bars you lift up to lock the shells in place.

Finally, find as flat and level of a location as possible to do this work. Then spend all the time you need to get the trailer absolutely perfectly level in both dimensions before doing any adjustments.