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Old 12-30-2011, 07:05 PM   #11
Barb&Tim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pagosa View Post
At this point I have power coming from all pins on the truck. Not sure if Im doing the right checkout on the trailer but I used a ohm meter on the pins on the trailer receptacle and all of the pins returned a reading except the #3 pin. Im assuming I have a open circuit on #3 pin for the running lights. Im not an electrician so any suggestions?
Pagosa
Note: See Bill's post #14(below) where he explains when and where you should see voltage readings on your TV bargman connector.

I assume you are using a multi-meter which allows you to check for:

Voltage in (Volts)
Current in (Amps/miliamps)
Resistance in (ohms)

But for the problem you are having to determine whether it's the TV or the TM,
You should be checking for DC voltage +12v on pin 3 with the voltage setting on your meter. If it has a range setting, set it higher than 12v.

Connect meter red lead to pin 3, meter black lead to ground.


***By the way, using an ohms setting to check for voltages can possibly (EDit:damage your ohmmeter).(your right Bill ) You should only use the ohms setting when you know there is no voltages present and you are checking for continuity.

Tim
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Old 12-30-2011, 07:14 PM   #12
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Thanks for the reply I will check as you suggest tomorrow.
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Old 12-30-2011, 07:47 PM   #13
Barb&Tim
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Pagosa. Still wondering if you have ever had these running lights working before or not?

Tim
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Old 12-30-2011, 07:50 PM   #14
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Let's clarify. All of the pins except Ground should show 12 VDC when the associated switch in the tow vehicle is turned on. In other words, the pin for the backup lights should show power if the ignition is on and you put the transmission in reverse. The pins for the left and right brake / directional lights should have power if you press the brake pedal. The running (marker) lights should have power if you turn on the headlights. The brake pin should be energized if the ignition is on and someone is stepping on the brake - however, since the vehicle is not moving, the reading on this one may be wonky, depending on your brake controller. And of course the 12 VDC battery charge line should show power as long as the ignition is on (many cars) or all the time (other cars).

If none of these functions are activated (no one is stepping on the brake, for example), then the only pin that should show 12 VDC power is (maybe) the battery charge line. Is this what you are seeing?

As for using an ohmmeter on the trailer half of the the connector? You should check only the lines to the brakes and the lights. In each case, you should expect a reading of a few ohms, say in the range 2 to 10 ohms. If you try to measure the 12 VDC battery line with an ohmmeter, you will get a meaningless reading at best, and destroy your multimeter at worst. I don't think you risk blowing any TM fuses, though.

Tim's question - did the lights ever work with this vehicle? - is a good one. The answer will steer the troubleshooting steps.

Bill
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Old 12-30-2011, 08:16 PM   #15
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If one or two of the lights don`t work, it could be the bulb,socket, or ground wire to the TM skin. If none of the running lights work but some lights work it is most likely between the plug and and the first connection point for that line.
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Old 12-31-2011, 06:42 PM   #16
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Using a test light on the TV connector all pins light up the tester. All lights on the trailer function except the taillights and marker lights. Are the marker lights and running lights in a series setup? All the lights have functioned in the past until I hooked up to the TM the last time. It had been a couple of months since I had taken the TM out camping.
I was trying to use a ohm meter on the trailer connector to see if I had a open circuit on the 3 pin to the running lights and it didn't return a reading at all. I know my ability electrically is handicapping me on this issue. It may be time to head for the RV dealer. Thanks for all the help

Pagosa
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Old 12-31-2011, 06:50 PM   #17
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They are in a parallel setup, 12v is applied to each bulb.


You might try scrubjaysnest's suggestion in post #7 above.
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Old 12-31-2011, 06:54 PM   #18
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That is a possibility. I will check it out.
Thanks
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Old 12-31-2011, 08:52 PM   #19
rumbleweed
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check behind fridge ( lower outside access vent) you might have a lose connection where the cable breaks out to the various lights. Some TMs use wire nuts and some use terminal strips or crimp connectors
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Old 01-02-2012, 01:23 PM   #20
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Default Just in case...

I had a similar "untrace-able" problem with my TM's left brake/turn light and finally traced it to a spotty connection between the two Bargman halves. When "plugged in with some muscle behind it" the light worked to get me home...dismantling and re-seating the TV plug made this a much more reliable connection. A thought from a mechanical guy -- could you use a jumper wire between the two plug halves to diagnose if this is causing Pagosa's problem?

Mark
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