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Old 04-04-2011, 06:49 AM   #1
MisterP
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Default Handrails / grab handles /3326 roof latch / backing plates, etc

Interesting mod. One immediate con for my DW is she loses a handrail for her bad knee.
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Old 04-04-2011, 07:46 AM   #2
ng2951
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Quote:
...One immediate con for my DW is she loses a handrail for her bad knee...
I had thought about that. Have not done this yet, but I thought about adding a secure, detachable handle to the door frame interior or externally.

Option 1:
If you use the door frame route, you would need to lock the swinging part of the door frame. That would not be that hard to do. If you were to use carriage bolts, the handle could be permanent since when it swings in there is nothing behind it. Heck if you want to it could be lighted as well.

Option 2:
If you attached to the exterior side, it would probably have to be a detactable handle to allow for closing the TM. Again power is in the area so it is possible to put a lighted handle in place.

I like option 1 the best since I don't think the handle will need to be detactable...
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Old 05-23-2011, 07:31 AM   #3
ng2951
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Quote:
...One immediate con for my DW is she loses a handrail for her bad knee.
I have kept this post in mind. Last week I went by CW (Camping World) and looked at handrails. CW has a couple of handrails that would easily fill the bill (for not too many bills).

When I get the shells adjusted in June at TM, I am going to get TMs eyeball judgement on this mod. If they cannot find some serious fault (I might have to add a stiffener or the like), I am going to install that exterior handrail.

The negative I see on the handrail is that it would be mounted somewhat higher than normal. It seems most logical to put it on the upper (outer) shell just to the left of the doorway. However, you could also mount one on the lower left, exterior doorjam. If you do that, the handle must be far enough towards the jam hinge so that you can secure the door when you close the TM.

The other question is which type of handrail. The lower profile one would look better, but I think the one you have to fold down would be more functional. Either way they real problem are that these handles are going to be a little higher than you would want, but other than that would still serve.

I am still working that out in my head. If I could attach the folding unit such that one leg was on upper (outer) shell and the other leg was on the lower (inner) shell that would be almost perfect. The problem is figuring out some flush locking attachment that would make the railing secure when deployed and removable when closed.

Comments???
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Old 05-23-2011, 10:10 AM   #4
countrygirl
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I have not tried this...but I have considered using the 3M Command product to attach a handrail on the camper exterior of the camper. You can look at this link and see that these items do have some strength.

I can't figure out how many pounds of pressure/force a person would use in grabbing a handrail. So I think you would have to do some trail and error research to see if the thing would stick or not. I have had some of these in the TB bathroom near the shower for 2 years. The help hold the clear vinyl in place on the inside of exterior wall during showers

I think it might be possible to attach a hand rail to some sore of round or square material securely and then attach that to the exterior of the TM with Command Strips.

It may pop off and it might not. If you have to grab and pull on it to haul your butt up or inside...it might not work...if it is more to steady to it might be fine.

I did find this chart of the Weight limits of 3M Command products:

http://www.command.com/wps/portal/3M...Weight-Limits/

If I decide to use something like this...I would use the Picture Hanging Strips and unvelcro and store the hand rail before folding the TM.

BTW...The 3M Command products are WONDERFUL! I wish I had invented them! They all have a little tab ...and when you pull the tab the 3M strip disengages from the wall etc...and leaves no residue/damage.
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Old 05-23-2011, 10:35 AM   #5
Barb&Tim
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I wonder if this would work?

http://www.harborfreight.com/bath-sa...dle-96086.html

-- But I do have to wonder if any solution that only attaches to a small area of the thin aluminum skin would be able to support the weight applied without de-laminating the aluminum to styrofoam.

Tim
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Old 05-23-2011, 11:53 AM   #6
ELM-JLM
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Thumbs up Grab Handles!

Here is how I attached my grab handles! The one on the door is invaluable to us! We don't have to lean back and grab the rubber insulater to close the door!

I am lucky enough to have a marine surplus yard near home and can get stainless steel very reasonable!
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Old 05-23-2011, 01:47 PM   #7
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Thanks all. Earl is doing what I am thinking about, so it is good to see one in action.

BTW, when we trying out the satellite hookup having the dinette seat out was absolutely great. It really made for a lot of room to relax and watch the Weather Channel or the evening news...
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Old 05-23-2011, 05:21 PM   #8
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IMO, using a backing plate on these handles would reduce the chance of a bolt pulling through the wall later on. Even 2 or 3 inches square with the bolt in the middle distributes the stress over a much larger area. Our roof latch on the 3324 uses a backing plate on the ceiling for that reason.

Backing plates are very common on boats, particularly sailboats where the bolt loading can be quite large. Look at it as cheap insurance.
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Old 05-23-2011, 06:39 PM   #9
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Can you post a picture of the backing plate on your TM. Also a picture of your roof latch from the outside. I need to do something to make mine a little more stable.

Thanks

Dave
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Old 05-23-2011, 08:22 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlkcub View Post
Can you post a picture of the backing plate on your TM. Also a picture of your roof latch from the outside. I need to do something to make mine a little more stable.

Thanks

Dave
Sorry, I just had major back surgery and won't be lifting anything including the TM for a few months. Perhaps another 3326 owner can take pictures of the door side roof latch. To clarify, this is not something I did, it appears to be a factory install on the 3326. I simply re-bedded it when I bought the trailer.

Sorry for the thread hijack.
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