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Old 03-16-2011, 09:38 AM   #11
BobSan
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Thank you all I do have a v8 4.6 with a extra leaf on the back axle,I use to carry kids and gears from Vancouver is. to BA Mexico at spring break.
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Old 03-16-2011, 10:10 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by harveyrv View Post
I would do a little research before you go with that heavy rated WDH.

I would recommend not exceeding 600-800# rated WDH. The stronger the spring bars on the WDH, the more shock loading that will be transferred to your trailer axle and the more risk of over-stressing the trailer when driving on rough roads.

The idea of the WDH is to transfer some of the load from the hitch ball to the front wheels of the TV so that the front wheels are not unloaded by the tongue weight of the trailer. There is no advantage to installing a WDH that will exceed the weight of the load.
I have to agree with harveyrv on this one. I am using 600# bars on mine and they level the TM & TV with no problems.

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Old 03-16-2011, 10:49 AM   #13
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I would suggest that you contact the manufacturer (not the dealer) of whatever brand WDH that you decide on. Give them your vehicle wheel base, the distance from your trailer tongue to the center of the rear axle, the tongue weight and approx how much weight that you will be carrying behind the axle of your van.

They should be able to give you a recommendation on the WDH that is properly suited for your set-up. Every set-up is different and as long as you are going to buy a new WDH, you might as well get the correct one.

BTW........your HD rear springs are of no consequence when it comes to moving the weight back onto your front wheels for control issues. They may help with sagging but not with weight distribution.

The problem with the TM is that the axle is mounted far back on the trailer, the trailer is very close to maxed out for the rating of the axle. When using a WDH, you put more load on the axle and with the axle mounted farther back, the shock-loading on the tires may be an issue.

We have seen a lot of tire problems on the TM and I have a theory that it may be (partially) due to the shock-loading from the WDHs used. The heavier the rating on the spring bars on the WDH, the more shock-loading that is transferred to the trailer axle and tires.

It has little to do with how the spring bars are tensioned while in a static position. It has to do with the amount of spring tension that is applied while on a rough or wash-board road. The maximum that a 600# spring bar will transfer is half of what a 1200# spring bar will transfer. The point is, this is unnecessary because it has nothing to do with the braking ability of the tow vehicle. It only adds to the stress on the trailer. Over-kill is completely unnecessary.

I have a 600# rated WDH for my rig. I seldom use it because I have a bad back and I don't like messing with the thing. However, if I am going on a long trip or driving in the mountains, I do use it. My TV has a very long WB (157") and does a good job of handling the trailer with no noticeable loss in front wheel control on dry roads. I'm not willing to risk testing it on wet roads so I do use the WDH if there is a chance of rain (which is seldom in SoCal). The 600# WDH does a fine job on my rig.
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Old 03-16-2011, 11:20 AM   #14
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Thank you.
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Old 03-16-2011, 07:39 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harveyrv View Post
...
I have a theory that it may be (partially) due to the shock-loading from the WDHs used. The heavier the rating on the spring bars on the WDH, the more shock-loading that is transferred to the trailer axle and tires.

...
Is there evidence that tire failures correlate with the use of a WDH, heavier or otherwise?

Rather, the evidence suggests that the tire failures are more directly linked to the the heavier single axle trailers with the 14"tires (especially the 2720's), where they tended to have been close to their capacity in the first place. The factory's move of this part of the product line to the heavier rated 15" tires suggests they reached this same conclusion.

While I can't find any support for your personal theory, I'm pleased to hear that you have decided to use your WDH at least part of the time.
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:03 PM   #16
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Is there evidence that tire failures correlate with the use of a WDH, heavier or otherwise?

Rather, the evidence suggests that the tire failures are more directly linked to the the heavier single axle trailers with the 14"tires (especially the 2720's), where they tended to have been close to their capacity in the first place. The factory's move of this part of the product line to the heavier rated 15" tires suggests they reached this same conclusion.

While I can't find any support for your personal theory, I'm pleased to hear that you have decided to use your WDH at least part of the time.
If the tires are "close to their capacity in the first place", common sense should tell one that loading that same tire more by using a WDH, that would exacerbate the problem. Using a WDH that is rated @ 2-3x the actual tongue weight would further exacerbate the problem as the shock-loading would be far greater.

Out of the last 22 camping trips, we used the WDH one time because we were towing in the High Sierras. I brought it along another time because there was a chance of rain. Like I said......I just don't like messing with the thing and it has little value on my TV, on dry pavement.
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Old 03-16-2011, 11:36 PM   #17
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I don't have any data to back this up...and I may be doing it wrong. BUT, the Car Show dealer claims they had found that the 1200# WDH worked best and that is what they sold me. Using 3 links the bars are parellel to the ground as they should be. I do not have to cinch them up overly tight since I have an air bag system on the rear of the TM. Which would be basicaly the same as a reinforced leaf spring I think. I'd like to try some lighter bars, but a pair cost about what I paid for the whole setup! The setup seems to work very well for me.

Seems like if your tongue weight was in the 600lb range, you would want bars stronger than 600 - 800 lbs???? But what do I know!

Good advice i think to call the WDH manufacturer and see what they say. Please let us know!!

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Old 03-16-2011, 11:52 PM   #18
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I don't have any data to back this up...and I may be doing it wrong. BUT, the Car Show dealer claims they had found that the 1200# WDH worked best and that is what they sold me. Using 3 links the bars are parellel to the ground as they should be. I do not have to cinch them up overly tight since I have an air bag system on the rear of the TM. Which would be basicaly the same as a reinforced leaf spring I think. I'd like to try some lighter bars, but a pair cost about what I paid for the whole setup! The setup seems to work very well for me.

Seems like if your tongue weight was in the 600lb range, you would want bars stronger than 600 - 800 lbs???? But what do I know!

Good advice i think to call the WDH manufacturer and see what they say. Please let us know!!

Welcome to the site Bob !!!
The WDH is basically "springs". If you put 1-ton truck springs on a 1/2-ton PU. That does not make that PU a 1-ton truck. There are other parts of the truck that may suffer damage if one were to load the truck to the capacity of a 1-ton truck. It will also make that truck ride at the top of the spring when not loaded and result in a very rough ride.

By using a WDH with spring bars that are designed to carry 2-3X the capacity than it is actually operating at, one is essentially doing the same thing as installing 1-ton springs in a 1/2 ton PU. Not that one is loading them up to full capacity but the springs are not doing the job that they were designed to do. Springs are meant to......well......spring or bend to the proper operating level that they were designed for. If the spring does not......spring..... then too much shock loading is transferred to places that the loading should not be transferred to. The very concept of "springing" is to avoid shock loading.
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Old 03-17-2011, 09:56 AM   #19
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I have always thought that the best way to determine whether a WDH is needed or not is to measure rear end sag on the TV when the trailer is attached. If the rear of the TV drops 3/4" or more (which in turn lightens the front of the TV) then a WDH is needed to redistribute the weight and keep the TV level. I need one with my Tacoma. If I had a heavier duty full size truck I don't really think a WDH would be needed. Is my thinking incorrect?
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Old 03-17-2011, 10:35 AM   #20
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Not just rear-end sag, but also (and perhaps more importantly) front-end rise. As you mentioned, front-end rise reflects the unloading of the wheels that do all of the steering most of the braking, and this is an invitation to disaster.

At risk of starting a wildfire, I'll also say that simply measuring rear-end sag encourages people to install helper springs and air bags, to level out the vehicle. However, simply raising the rear end of the vehicle an inch or two does nothing to unload the rear suspension (tires, wheel bearings, shocks, etc), leaving it potentially overloaded even though "it looks good". And more importantly, it does nothing to re-load the front end, replacing the weight that is missing there.

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