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Old 05-30-2010, 01:54 PM   #11
Wavery
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In regards to using the old spare............trailer tires generally die from old age, not use. I would assume that the spare is the same age as the mounted tires. I would treat it in a similar manner (throw it away). Spares are actually worse off than the tires on the ground. As you tow your trailer, the vulcanized rubber in the tire is being self-vitalized as the oils in the tire sort of "Move-around" and lubricate the dry areas in the tire. As the tires age, the spare is generally the worse tire on the trailer. It doesn't have to show cracking on the surface. Most of the dry-out areas are internal.

As you now know.....it's quite common for someone to have a tire failure, install the spare, drive <100 miles and suffer another tire failure and have no spare to put on.

General rule of thumb........if you suffer a blow-out on a trailer that has 4+ year-old tires, install the spare and find the nearest place to buy 3 new tires. Remember, after the blow-out, you are far worse off than you were before the blow-out (you have no spare and the spare that you put on may be the next to blow).

Many a vacation have been spent in repair shop parking lots due to blow-outs and no spare.

BTW......Many rubber valve stems crack and fail far sooner that the tires, if the valve stem fails while you are on the highway, you won't notice the loss of air pressure before the tire blows apart, in most cases......

For those of you that have rubber valve stems, do yourself a BIG favor.....go out and bend the valve stem in every direction. If you see cracking, tow the trailer to the nearest tire store and have the valve stems replaced immediately. You should check rubber valve stems for cracking every time that you check your tire pressure. It's not uncommon for rubber valve stems to start cracking after 2 years of service.
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Old 05-30-2010, 04:46 PM   #12
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I concur with most of the information on this thread. But nothing that I have read yet has indicated that these tire failures were blow-outs vs. flat tires. Unless someone actually hears the “pop” of a blowout, how do we know that is what happened ??

Case in Point: While traveling I-40 last week, the couple that bought my TM were behind my SIL and DD, and noticed their trailer was leaning. When traffic allowed, they started to pull up beside the leaning trailer to see what might be going on, and a tire started throwing rubber their way. The alerted us via CB, and we were fortunate to pull off the shoulder of a little used entrance ramp. A Nascar type tire change occurred , and when my DD attempted to put the damaged tire back on the spare tire rack while my SIL and I completed the tire change, it was too hot for her to handle. That is what makes me think that it had been run flat for awhile. The sidewalls were shredded, but the thread was still mostly intact.

A couple of other points: This same tire had to be repaired several weeks previously because it was flat. I think either the plug didn’t hold, or it picked up another screw or nail, and just plan went flat. Even after the tire shredded, my SIL could not tell any difference in how the camper handled. A tire going low on the vehicles we ride in are pretty obvious. But a low tire on a towed vehicle is almost impossible to detect……unless there is a tire pressure monitoring system used.

Whether a tire failure is the result of a blow-out or just a flat tire still has the same result…..we are stuck somewhere changing a tire. If all of the precautions are taken, and the tire looks good at the last rest stop, there is nothing I can do to prevent a blowout. But, if a tire goes down gradually and is caught, then I might be able to change it out at a more convenient spot than beside of the highway before it gets to the point of heating up and shredding the sidewall. My SIL and DD have already got the information from me on my TPMS, and promise they will have a unit before there next trip.
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Old 05-30-2010, 06:48 PM   #13
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I personally suspect with Marathons, that in some cases overloading is the cause. I think it is pretty easy to overload them, particularly if a weight distributing hitch is used (and a weight distributing hitch usually is a good idea, so it should be in most cases!). I also think TM used some of the defective valve stems that were recalled a few years ago.

I got 20,000 miles out of my Marathons. I replaced them this year just because of experience on this forum with them and that I didn't like running so close to speed ratings and weight ratings. They were 3 years old when I replaced them. But they never gave me problems. I did balance them (which is good for the wheel bearings even if it isn't necessary for the tires), checked pressure religiously, greased wheel bearings yearly, verified brake adjustment every few thousand miles, and never left it sitting very long in one spot without moving it. I think those things help.

I also overinflated them by 10 lbs, as I felt that would help them hold up better so close to their limits - others may disagree, and I'm glad I have a tire I don't need to do that with now (note that the tread wear pattern on the original tires - I ended up with 1/8" or so of tread - indicated that this was too much inflation). I'm also glad I have a tire that can go 70 MPH occasionally (to avoid elephant races - I normally tow at 65 MPH or the speed limit, whichever is lower, but occasionally want to pass a semi going 64.5 MPH!).
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Old 05-31-2010, 06:45 AM   #14
Joseph
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I know this is overkill, but I carry a second spare in the back of the truck just in case, along with a few tools and floor jack. The 3/4 ton truck gives me that luxury. Got this idea from Bill as he mentioned crossing some desert areas in Arizona where tire repair shops are few and far between. Similar to areas I travel. Never had to use but one spare one time when one tire threw its tread. The DW and I do not get to camp as often as we like but when we do get time we do not want to spend it getting the TM tires replaced.
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Old 05-31-2010, 07:47 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnguy View Post

This same tire had to be repaired several weeks previously because it was flat. I think either the plug didn’t hold,
OK Chap, I"m going to use your statement there to point out something ....... even though I know it may just be the terminology used. A lot of people use the term "plugged" to mean fixed.

In the tire biz, when someone says a tire is plugged, it entails pushing a rubber/leather plug from the outside of the tire, into the hole. THIS IS A HUGE NO-NO. ........if done for any other reason than a temporary, emergency thing to get you off the side of the road and to a tire shop. A plugged tire is not a fixed tire.

I see a lot of my fellow tire techs who plug tires, mainly because it is fast and cheap. They can plug a tire without removing it from the vehicle or rim. They aren't doing you any favors, when they do this.

You ALWAYS and I mean ALWAYS want your tire patched from the INSIDE (Do you hear me, the INSIDE) of the tire. This will require removing it from the vehicle/trailer, and removing it from the rim. It does take time and more money, but that is the way to fix a tire.........and is also the only Rubber Manufacturers Association (RMA) approved method. The RMA is made up of tire manufacturers and other in the rubber/tire business.

http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/Arti...re_repair.aspx

If you don't have the tire removed from the rim, there is no way you can see the damage that may be on the inside of the tire. I observe many a ruined tire on the inside each week at my business, from where the tire had been run too low of air or run flat. If you just plug a tire from the outside, and it has this unbeknownst internal damage...it will blow out soon, sometimes in your face when you are airing it back up. A tire blowing up with 50+ psi, while you are crouched down in front of it, does not make a pretty picture. Even if shrapnel from the tire doesn't hit you, just the shock wave of the pressure will hurt you.

Another thing about outside plugs, is tread separation. Air and water always try to find places to escape. When you just stick/cram/jab a plug into the tire, you may temporarily seal the outside hole, but you did not seal the inside one. The air pressure will work around the plug inside the tire. If it can't escape straight out, then it will seep between the plies of the tire and 'separate' the plies from the rubber they are encased in. When this happens, the tire is junk. I see this every week also.

No tire manufacturer will adjust a separated tire, that has been plugged. You might can get a dealer to adjust it, especially if he is the one who plugged it....but they will have to eat it, because a manufacturer won't.

I also observe every week, where someone had a tire plugged, and didn't even take the nail out, because they didn't see it. They just crammed a plug down in the tire beside it, making a new puncture. Sometimes we find the nail inside the tire where it got pushed inside by a plug, and is cutting the inside of the tire every time it rolls. Tire plugs also dry out and start to leak. Probably 20-25% of all the flats I repair are from leaking plugs. We cut the plug off and put a patch over it.

What you ideally want , is for the tire shop to put a 'patch insert' into your tire. This will be a patch that has a rubber insert attached to it. It is glued in from the inside of the tire. The technician will first take a small drill with the appropriate size tire bit on it, and ream out the hole where the tire was punctured. This removes any loose/cut steel and cord. They will then grind the inside of the tire, and apply glue. They take the patch insert (working from inside to out) and pull it into place. The puncture hole is now sealed by the insert, which will keep dirt and water out of the hole from the outside ... and is sealed inside by the patch, which keeps air from escaping and/or separating the tire.

This is what they look like, along with the bit that you use with them. Sometimes, if the angle of the puncture is too great, you have to use a two piece patch and insert....but the application is the same. You put the insert in, then put the patch over it.



I don't carry "plugs' or a plugging tool at my shop.....and never have, nor never will.

If you do find yourself in an emergency situation, where you need to plug a tire......remember to get to a tire shop as fast as you can, and have it checked/fixed properly. If the tire shop only wants to plug it, then find another one to do business with. Remember the guy who plugs your tire, already got paid. He's not the one on the side of the highway changing the flat tire that wasn't properly repaired.
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Old 05-31-2010, 02:17 PM   #16
brulaz
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Hey, thanks for the great post, Bobby.
Lot's of good stuff there.
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Old 05-31-2010, 02:36 PM   #17
mtnguy
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Bobby, I didn't think the plug was a good idea either, but I haven't kept up on tire repair, and figured my SIL knew what he was doing. Plugging tires used to be the norm when biased tires were around, but I remember when radials came out I heard they were only supposed to be patched. I will pass this info on to my SIL so maybe that mistake won't be made again.

As always, thanks for the great information.
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Old 08-09-2010, 06:41 PM   #18
T and C
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Folks,

I have had my TM for 3 weeks now. It has two Goodyear Marathon 225/75/15 tires load range "D". The trailer is an 08 3023.

The age code on one tire says 2007. As I understand it, that means that it was manufactured May of 07 or so. The other tire is blank where the code should be!

When I bought it at Custom RV, the guys said that they recommend replacement after 4 years so they only put a new spare on and left the old tires. The spare is something I have never heard of before.

After reading all the horror stories on this forum, especially the damage to the plumbing that can happen, I decided to replace the tires with new Marathons, steel valve stems, ect. So... I hikes me down to Walmart this afternoon to see what they have in stock. While there I asked where one would park the trailer.

"Oh, you take the tires off at home and bring them in!"

I once had a tent trailer, and I just towed it to the dealer for tires. The employees did everything else. I this what they do at all tire stores?? Or it this just an unfriendly one?

I would value your experience if you don't mind.

Tom
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Old 08-09-2010, 06:55 PM   #19
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For those that have the 14" tires, would an LT tire be a good replacement or strictly a trailer tire? I have had D or E rated tires on previous trailers. TM has C for now. On the upgrade to 15", where do you get the appropriate frame spacers, etc? How much is involved to do it?

Thanks.
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Old 08-09-2010, 07:02 PM   #20
Bill
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Tom -

Well, clearly WalMart is not where you want to be. I got my 15" Marathons on this board (thanks, Bobby!), but had them mounted - new wheels, metal valve stems, balanced - at a local discount tire shop. And when I had a flat on my tow vehicle in May, same answer. A local tire shop did everything, while I sat in the waiting room and drank coffee.

Tire Warehouse, Big O, Discount Tire, or some such place - they are always right around the corner. As long as you know what you want, and don't get sucked into some fake discount, they should do what you need.
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Matt -

LT (light truck) tires are generally not considered a good substitute for ST (special trailer) tires. There has been a lot of discussion of the difference between the two on this board. Just scan down through the Tires forum - or use the Search tool. You'll find lots of good info.

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