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Old 05-29-2007, 08:35 PM   #21
rtcassel
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Originally Posted by sagbags1 View Post
I hooked up the tm today and measured the front and back in the wheel wells. Their was about 3/4 inch difference from the front and back.
Measure from reference points on the front and rear wheel wells before hitching up the TM. After hitching up the TM, measure from the same reference points. Both the front and rear should settle the same amount; that is, the difference in the two front measurements (before and after hitching) should be about the same as the difference in the two rear measurements. A properly adjusted WDH accomplishes this by equally distributing the tongue weight over the TV front and rear axles and the TM axle.
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Old 05-30-2007, 03:24 PM   #22
Denny_A
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Originally Posted by sagbags1 View Post
....snip..... Toyota told jane today to absolutely not put a wdh on a highlander.
IMHO, Toyota dealer reps are protecting themselves, not you. That way, if you come back to 'Yota and show them what your WDH did to the vehicle by towing an overweight trailer, they're covered. Many folx have successfully towed a TM with a Pilot and with a Highlander whilst using a WDH.

Quote:
I hooked up the tm today and measured the front and back in the wheel wells. Their was about 3/4 inch difference from the front and back. It does tow great and breaks good.
rtcassel (previous response)is correct. You must take reference height readings before dropping the tongue on the hitch. Try this eye opener. Secure some twine around the hitch receiver such that it falls to the ground. Cut the excess off, so that the end just touches ground. Tie another piece of twine in the center front of the vehicle; say the license plate. Cut the free end off at the ground also.

Drop the tongue on to the hitch ball. Retract the trailer jack until it clears the ground. Then measure the length of twine lying on the ground below the receiver. Also measure the gap between the string and ground below the other twine. Add the two measurements. That is the total imbalance of your towing setup w/o a WDH. Typically the rear will settle 2-4 inches, depending on tongue weight, and the front will rise 1-2 inches (ballpark for a non-truck framed vehicle).

A WDH, setup properly, will cause both the front and rear to settle about the same amount. Say the rear settle 2" and the front 1-1/2". The difference of 1/2" from the unloaded condition is a decent, stable configuration.

When folx here recommend a WDH, they're recommending it's use for the improvements in handling quality and, therefore, safety.

HTH - Denny_A
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Old 05-30-2007, 05:44 PM   #23
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Thank you Denny A. I will do what you said this weekend. If I can see the difference like you said. I will get a wdh right away. What is bothering me is that it tows so nice without one and it's very deceaving but proof will be in the twine. I think I can finally get to the bottom of all this back and forth stuff. Ken
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Old 05-31-2007, 12:09 AM   #24
rickst29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Denny_A View Post
IMHO, Toyota dealer reps are protecting themselves, not you. That way, if you come back to 'Yota and show them what your WDH did to the vehicle by towing an overweight trailer, they're covered.
Great post, and I agree.

BTW, you asked previously about people who have actually REPORTED problems. Google returns only one match, here:
http://www.hondapilot.org/forums/sho...d/t-18236.html
In discussing the unibody structural damage on his previous vehicle (a Chevy Venture, blechh!), he says "I figured the hitch bent 1/32, the vans frame bent 1/64 (swashed the under coating)". So it has happened, and someone even noticed... BUT HARDLY EVER. And with a really light TM, the WDH "stress" isn't gonna be all that much.
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