Entry Door Alignment Problems - Page 2

nwhouston · 07-15-2017, 09:30 AM

Bill, thanks for the update on Denny_A. My post is the one that mentioned 'tricks', and I re posted indicating that I meant the jockeying of various stabilizers to get the TM base just right so that I could engage the left side, lower wing piece into place (pin into the slot). My issue is somewhat different from the one Denny was commenting on in his 2003 post, but I was hoping some of his guidance might be applicable.

I have since found that Holly's adjustments of the height of the shells may be my best lead. He has been sharing some further guidance with me in a separate thread. I will be giving those a try this week if I can get dry weather and a helper.

If you do remember anything from Denny's old post I would still appreciate the guidance as our TM has definitely changed over the last three years in terms of how easy it is to set up. The back end is fine. The issues are the front pull out is quite stiff and the door won't set up without the stabilizer 'tricks' I mentioned.

Thanks for the help. Larry

Haleriju · 09-20-2017, 05:40 AM

We had a problem with ou 2006 2720sl door closing. When I was installing new vinyl floor noticed the angle brace for the wall on the hinge side of the door was no longer tight so wall was out of alignment. I put new bolts thru floor and then drilled the brace holes where they go into the wall and put holes thru and installed carriage bolts in from outside and this brought the wall back in and the door closes much better than before.

CAG1976 · 09-21-2017, 01:00 PM

I have a 3124kb and I don't have this angle bracket near the hinge side. I have been behind the couch and even removed the arm to the couch and I can't find a bracket like that. My hinge wall is definitely not plumb and level. Anyone else not have this angle bracket on that wall near door hinges?

**Bill** · 09-21-2017, 01:50 PM

In a 2720 (for example), this triangle brace is needed because the wall is free-standing above the floor. There is nothing to attach the wall to. I seem to recall that in a 3124, the wall is attached to the cabinetry or the couch frame somehow, and the cabinetry or couch forms the brace.

One way or another, the same idea should apply. The wall is attached to the brace, which in turn is attached to the floor. The attachment enables the wall to move in and out in some way. You may be looking at the adjustment and not seeing it, simply because you are looking for a 2720-style triangle brace.

Bill

CAG1976 · 09-22-2017, 12:04 PM

Well I have had the couch apart and its kind of scary that all it is 1x2 wood strips that are screwed into the wall and stapled together. The arm of couch have very little framing in it. I am honestly surprised it has never collapsed or snapped any of that framing.
I was thinking of a metal angle bracket that was bolted through floor or wall from the previous descriptions. Maybe it is just these weak 1x2's and that would explain why my wall is not plumb.

**Bill** · 09-22-2017, 01:35 PM

Again, I haven't seen the inside of the couch framing, but I suppose there would be no ill effects from adding a big steel angle bracket such as you describe.

Are there any bolts coming out of the wall and into the couch frame? You might want to remove a bit of the wall's inside skin (in a spot that will be covered by the couch arm) to see if you can get access to the wall's frame members. This would be where you would bolt the wall to the angle bracket. Then two more bolts through the other side of the angle bracket and down through the floor.

Bill

CAG1976 · 09-22-2017, 01:57 PM

No bolts anywhere around the door. Just small screws for these 1x2s. I guess I need to make my own.