Disconnecting Carbon Monoxide Monitor

[Rob Culver]

Originally Posted by Bill

Please confirm it - my 2020 TM works this way.

Many thanks - it helps.

Bill

Confirmed. Before I lowered the wall there was a solid green light for carbon monoxide. What I'm wondering though now is: Why is the green carbon monoxide light blinking after I raised the wall back up?

[Bill]

Originally Posted by rob culver

Now ... why is the green carbon monoxide light blinking after I raised the wall back up?

Well, the first thing to do is find the User's Manual for the unit and spend a few minutes reading it. In the manual, I find:

OPERATION
Each time the unit is first powered up, the CO sensor requires a ten (10)
minute initial warm-up period to clean the sensor element and achieve
stabilization. The GREEN LED indicator will flash on and off during the 10
minute warm-up period. This unit cannot go into a CO alarm during the
warm-up period.

Bill

[Kidkraz]

Here's a copy of the model detector.

[Rob Culver]

Originally Posted by Kidkraz

Here's a copy of the model detector.

Thanks Kidkraz!

[Rob Culver]

Originally Posted by Bill

Well, the first thing to do is find the User's Manual for the unit and spend a few minutes reading it. In the manual, I find:

OPERATION
Each time the unit is first powered up, the CO sensor requires a ten (10)
minute initial warm-up period to clean the sensor element and achieve
stabilization. The GREEN LED indicator will flash on and off during the 10
minute warm-up period. This unit cannot go into a CO alarm during the
warm-up period.

Bill

Thanks Bill! I think I had the right doc but then ran out of energy before finding the right section.. lol

[Axeman]

Originally Posted by Bill

In my TM, there is an "All lights off" rocker switch near the fire extinguisher, just inside the entry door. As of my 2020 Owner's Manual, this switch does not appear on the wiring diagram, but in practice it controls all lights - front, rear, and outdoor. Very handy - I like it, although I would prefer that it did not control the outside lights (porch, hitch area, utility hookups, etc).

Bill

Completely agree regarding the value of this switch and your preference that it wouldn’t control the exterior lights. When we were at the factory last fall, Jacob rewired it for us so the outside lights are now independent of this switch. Seems like there are situations where having the hitch area light on after everything is closed up would be useful. I just have to remember to check these lights to make sure they’re all turned off when we pull out.

[ShrimpBurrito]

Originally Posted by jagizzi

i sure as heck don't want to contradict anyone here but, to me, the connectors in question look to be barrel connectors, which would make it possible to disconnect the wires. I guess since the one I am contradicting is Shane it's ok ;-) And I could be wrong

I agree. And that would be reasonable because that detector is expected to be replaced with some regularity -- every 5 years. In mine, it was simply attached with wire nuts, though admittedly, they were used to connect just about everything else in the camper, including the brakes.

In any event -- easy to find out. A firm but not super forceful pull should pull the connectors apart. It would take much more force to pull out a correctly crimped connector.

Dave

[ShrimpBurrito]

I note too that, generally, I find that to be a less-than-ideal spot for that detector. The back of it is in the bathroom cabinet, where we store stuff that can have even the slightest of odors that can (and have) make it go off.....deodorant, soap, sunscreen, etc.

And oddly, such false alarms usually go off in the middle of the night, as if part of some sort of conspiracy.

Dave

[Rob Culver]

Originally Posted by ShrimpBurrito

I agree. And that would be reasonable because that detector is expected to be replaced with some regularity -- every 5 years. In mine, it was simply attached with wire nuts, though admittedly, they were used to connect just about everything else in the camper, including the brakes.

In any event -- easy to find out. A firm but not super forceful pull should pull the connectors apart. It would take much more force to pull out a correctly crimped connector.

Dave

You are correct ShrimpBurrito, and Jagizzi too. I pulled one of the wires out attaching to the Monitor. And then plugged it back in. No problem! And in defense of Shane, I understand, that the only people who are never incorrect are those who never state an opinion. (A politician for example). lol

[MiniMe]

I have the 2010 TrailMini 18L and my detector was just above the floor in the bathroom wall perpendicular to the heater in the sofa. Mine did the constant beeping/alarming while stored, didn't matter if battery was connected and trailer plugged into shore power or not. I got a brand new one from my dealer and it still did it. Safe-T-Alert was no help at all on troubleshooting and wanted me to pay to ship it back to them. We empty/clean out the tanks/toilet/trailer after every trip, air it out, close the valves at the propane tanks and there are no appliances in this garage. The garage is detached and is about 8 feet away from my neighbor's bedroom window so I needed to fix it. I removed the detector and bought the plug-in CO/hazardous gas detector from Kidde for when the trailer is in use. This also allows me to place it somewhere other than right next to the heater since these detectors aren't supposed to be placed in a drafty spot anyway.