Cell Booster Install

[Deb Mac]

Originally Posted by Shane826

I have a WiFi booster but this might apply to the Cell booster as well. At least I hope so because this is also my plan for a Cell booster…

I also put the WiFi antenna on the crank-up TV antenna mast. But instead of running across the roof, down the lift arm, and through the cabinet I just ran my cable through the roof and into the front cabinet over the front sofa where the speakers are. Pulled 12VDC power from the reading lights, mounted the repeater to the front wall next to the window. Done and done.

That might be a workable option. The only concern might be that they recommend as much distance between the roof and indoor antennas as possible to prevent oscillation (feedback). But bringing it down right into the cabinets (which are really pretty useless so far - haven’t really found anything they are suitable for - too shallow) and mounting the amplifier there might work out just fine. I could locate the indoor antenna wherever i like - it’s not a hard mount so I’m not locked into location for that.

[Shane826]

The distance really isn’t that much different if it’s on the main lower cabinet or the front wall. Just a huge difference in length of coax. Plus you have a pretty decent double aluminum barrier between the two antennas.

[FlyboyTR]

Originally Posted by Deb Mac

Thanks Travis. So good to hear that it worked well for you. Yes, I have the front slide on my TM. But since it is a 2720, I might be able to use that rear strut. The shell would be a bit shorter than yours - maybe not enough to make it workable, but I can do some measurements.

Do you have a picture of how your antenna is mounted to the TV antenna? No rush. Just next time you might be up there. I have to close mine up shortly to do some maintenance on the gears (never been done by the PO from what I can tell - it is STIFF!!) and I will do some measuring. And I think mine is a little off-kilter TBH. Antenna wing just touches & sits on the edge of the street-side vent cover, so I may need to look into re-aligning the mount, if that is even possible. Also need to check the distance from the antenna to the ac shroud.

And thanks for that link to checking signal strength! Incredibly informative. Nice to actually have a way to check the real strength of my signal rather than looking for bars.

My pleasure...glad you found it beneficial. My camper is open presently and I don't have any pictures showing the antenna mount. Basically I used three heavy cushion clamps (see link below) around the Weboost antenna mast. I drilled the top square tube that lifts the TV antenna and used two machine screws and nuts to attach the cushion clamps to the square tube. In hindsight...I don't think I would have changed a thing about the way I mounted the WeBoost antenna to the TV antenna.

Link for the Cushion Clamps: https://amzn.to/45LeGs0

Most hardware stores will carry these clamps. Take the antenna mast with you to get the right diameter clamp. You want it to compress tightly around the mast when you tighten things up. Hope this helps!

Travis

[Deb Mac]

Originally Posted by Shane826

The distance really isn’t that much different if it’s on the main lower cabinet or the front wall. Just a huge difference in length of coax. Plus you have a pretty decent double aluminum barrier between the two antennas.

Hi Shane. I think you are probably correct about the double aluminum skin blocking a lot of the feedback between antennas. Still would want to be able to keep them as far apart as possible so the outdoor antenna doesn't pick up the indoor antenna signal. But since I can move that indoor antenna around if need be, probably a moot point..

[Deb Mac]

Originally Posted by FlyboyTR

My pleasure...glad you found it beneficial. My camper is open presently and I don't have any pictures showing the antenna mount. Basically I used three heavy cushion clamps (see link below) around the Weboost antenna mast. I drilled the top square tube that lifts the TV antenna and used two machine screws and nuts to attach the cushion clamps to the square tube. In hindsight...I don't think I would have changed a thing about the way I mounted the WeBoost antenna to the TV antenna.

Link for the Cushion Clamps: https://amzn.to/45LeGs0

Most hardware stores will carry these clamps. Take the antenna mast with you to get the right diameter clamp. You want it to compress tightly around the mast when you tighten things up. Hope this helps!

Travis

Thanks Travis. I always wondered what those things were called! And ,Yes... it certainly does help.

[Deb Mac]

I have taken a page from Steve & Erica Lineberry’s youtube demo on their weboost install in their Casita, for my antenna installation.
Using a telescoping painters pole, mounted only temporarily when needed, rather than permanently on the TV antenna. Just works better for me.

I’ll be mounting it at the rear driver’s side corner using clamps. (Screws and 3M mounting tape) Not going with a 16’ pole though. 8’ extended and will really only end up about 4-6’ above the roof even at it’s highest extension. Easily set up when I’m going to need it, which isn’t that often.

Store the cable in the power cord space and feed it out through the mousehole. Run it in through the underbed storage cupboard, behind the drawers and up to the counter beside the stove. Keeps it all within the box, no worries about how to feed it around the shells and seals, and no drilling holes in the TM shells.

Plan is to run the 12V power directly from the overhead light feed, either the one over the stove or the one in the hallway, or if I see another easily accessible 12V source, I’ll use that. Just checked the length of the wiring on the 12V adapter and it’s 11’. Might just run it straight from the battery bay, though that is probably a bit too long. Store the pole (4’ collapsed) in the bumper, the antenna in the battery bay.
Haven’t determined exactly where I will mount the amplifier. Probably another removable mount - maybe on velcro on the ceiling between the wardrobe and the stove, since that’s where the power will be and the antenna wire is coming up.

Did a test of the set up today with the antenna just supported in place in the back. With the antenna at the back corner and the inside antenna at the front, I will have a better chance of avoiding feedback between them, which causes the booster to attenuate the signal from the inside antenna. Get the best chance for optimal signal.

Though I have a pretty decent signal where I live (telus tower right here in our little town only about 1-1/2 km away) I did get a decent boost in signal strength - from -107 to -85 dBm. So looks like will be a win. Once I have it all set up, I’ll update. Waiting for the clamps for the pole.

[FlyboyTR]

Originally Posted by Deb Mac

I have taken a page from Steve & Erica Lineberry’s youtube demo on their weboost install in their Casita, for my antenna installation.
Using a telescoping painters pole, mounted only temporarily when needed, rather than permanently on the TV antenna. Just works better for me.

Though I have a pretty decent signal where I live (telus tower right here in our little town only about 1-1/2 km away) I did get a decent boost in signal strength - from -107 to -85 dBm. So looks like will be a win. Once I have it all set up, I’ll update. Waiting for the clamps for the pole.

Deb,
Glad you were able to work things out to your satisfaction. As with all things, there are usually several different ways to achieve the desired effect. I had to chuckle a bit when you posted your dBm signal strength. Understanding that really helps to see what kind of a signal you actually have and how well the WeBoost is performing. Take care....and best wishes!

Travis

[Deb Mac]

If I only went by “bars” or speed test results, I might have been doubtful about effectiveness. Where I live, I have a good signal. Only attenuated a bit because I was enclosed in an aluminum box! Speed test wasn’t improved much and bars without boosting were about 3 (sometimes briefly down to 2, on occasion briefly popped up to 4) With boosting was a solid 4. Not unexpected because the original signal is good! But consistent improvement from -105ish to -85ish is definitive. I wish I had a way to really test it without hooking up and trying to find a cellular black hole! But I’m satisfied that when the time comes, it will do the job.

[Deb Mac]

The hardwire 12V adapter arrived yesterday. Went to the trailer and decided to wire it into the street side reading light in the front cabinet. The housing was broken anyway, so thought that I could wire inside the cabinet and use the switch in the light housing. And not mess with the wiring behind the fridge.
Got it all wired in with the supplied fuse, turned the battery back on, and…. Nothing!

After checking all of the wiring back there, it turns out there is no power to the main wiring that comes from the ceiling to the speaker or the light. All of the ceiling lights work in the front shell and when the stereo deck is on, there is power to the speakers…. But it appears that if the deck is off, there is no power going to the hot wire that feeds the speakers and the little reading lights.

I don’t have the deck on since it was generating a lot of heat right over the top of the fridge and I was having enough trouble in the summer heat and humidity. And if I’m working on battery power, having the deck on if I’m not using it, which I never do, is a waste of amps.

So likely going to use the purple 12V line (furnace, toilet, water pump) in the bundle behind the fridge. So a couple of hours work got me nowhere, except a bit more understanding of the TM wiring.

Edit….. Just pulled out the wiring diagram that I downloaded from the forum. Seems there is a switch at the curbside vent that turns on the front reading lights that I didn’t know existed …. So back I go tomorrow and rewire everything and look for that switch!

[FlyboyTR]

Deb,
On both TM's I have owned, the two small reading lights under the front (end wall) cabinet are controlled by a switch. On mine, this switch is located on the center roof vent housing. It is a small rocker switch that can be easily overlooked. That may be why you don't have power going to the lights up front. Good luck!