Solar Panel Install on rear shell

[OneMoBear]

Originally Posted by MudDog

I took the TM out of the garage today to install a Xantrex LinkLite battery monitor and took a few pictures of the solar install.

First picture shows where I installed the Solar Controller Remote Display and LinkLite.

Second picture shows where I installed the controller (looking down into the dinette storage area)

Third picture shows the panels on the front shell. Will take another picture closer up when I fold it down later today.

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ghlight=muddog

I just ordered a 120 watt that weighs 26.5 lbs . . .

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by OneMoBear

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ghlight=muddog

I just ordered a 120 watt that weighs 26.5 lbs . . .

I think that's a good choice. 120W should be adequate on all but the cloudiest days.

Where did you order it from?

[OneMoBear]

I think from the same place you got yours. I saved it as a favorite when you purchased yours. I also ordered the same controller you have. I'm gonna be the test pilot for that inverter you posted about from Harbor Freight (price has gone up but still seems ok). The extention cable is on the way too. You guys are expensive.

Malinda

[MudDog]

As quoted, I mounted my panels on the front shell. Most of the camp sites I frequent seem to be shadier towards the back of the site.


The back of the panels are approximately 4' from the front of the AC - the sun would need to be extremely low in order for the AC to cast any kind of shadow on the panels.

While in-transit, the panels maintain the 4' clearance (unlike the rear shell) and I would think be more likely to get full sun for a longer period of time when the TM is folded down.

It did add weight to the front shell, but a minor torsion bar adjustment brought lift effort back to where it was.

As far as the MPPT controller, it was more expensive, but if it lasts 20 years, getting 10% more out of the available sunlight for less than $1/month seemed reasonable. Sure, I could have added another panel, but then you're adding even more weight to the roof and the over-all trailer weight.


--jim

[OneMoBear]

Most of the campsites we use would also be more shady toward the back . . .

We're going to put this on the back burner until we have our paws on it and can do a little weight lifting.

Thanks so much for all the great insight! You are the best!

Malinda

[OneMoBear]

Here's my dumb question of the day . . .

The inverter and cables should arrive tomorrow, the solar panel the next day, the controller sometime . . .

We'd like to get started before the controller arrives. The battery and solar connections on the controller we get. The "load" seems pretty obvious but will we connect the feed for the TM AND the inverter there? It seems we would want both the TM and the inverter tied in past our cutoff switch. So, we could go from the hot side of the "load" to the feed for the cutoff and then to the TM and inverter from there. Then grab the negative side for the TM at "load" and the inverter at either the battery or on the "load" on the controller. I know I must be driving all the engineers here crazy with my goofy descriptions . . .

Also, we are thinking about mounting the inverter on the inside wall under the table. We never drop the table and are thinking that we could use some removable caulk on the joints to keep a spill from running down on it. We also are assuming the lugs will be bare and would prefer to cover them with some kind of protection. Any suggestions will be much appreciated as always!

Malinda

[scrubjaysnest]

Originally Posted by OneMoBear

The "load" seems pretty obvious but will we connect the feed for the TM AND the inverter there? It seems we would want both the TM and the inverter tied in past our cutoff switch. So, we could go from the hot side of the "load" to the feed for the cutoff and then to the TM and inverter from there. Then grab the negative side for the TM at "load" and the inverter at either the battery or on the "load" on the controller. I know I must be driving all the engineers here crazy with my goofy descriptions . . .


Malinda

What you have described will work but may not be the best way.
First:
what is the maximum current the controller "load" will handle? It may not be enough for your inverter + refrig on DC + heater fan + Water pump + recirc pump on the toilet + lights etc.

Your current wiring is most likely battery to the converter, That will be your TM load.

Second:
The inverter wiring needs to as short as possible between the battery and inverter. The inverter is going to use the most "watts" followed by the refer on DC.

IMO you should separate some on these items out.

The little I have looked at the controllers with "load" outputs, the intent is to disconnect "load" from the battery when it drops below some voltage set point.
This is done to allow the solar panels to recharge the battery(ies).
Most people put a battery disconnect switch in to remove all load from the battery. Since you may want to charge the battery with the TM closed from the solar panels I would put the switch between the fuse at the battery and all load. Wire the controller output + at the fuse to disconnect switch connection.

[OneMoBear]

Thanks but oh my . . . my brains are running out my ears

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

I'm not really seeing us running the refrigerator on DC . . .

We know the inverter needs to be as close as possible to the battery. One little cable from the battery connections on the controller to the other side of the wall would be really nice.

Malinda

[scrubjaysnest]

Just looked at the one you ordered. You will need to decide what you want run through here. If you want to run the load from battery or converter or both.

I would suggest this will need drawing out. It will take me a few minutes to work something up.

[OneMoBear]

Awesome! We've been drawing it out too but are convinced that we shouldn't quit our day jobs

Malinda